Anyone swapped blades between a LW and standard Para 3?

tknife · Nov 21, 2022

I spent quite a long time trying to swap a Para 3 lightweight blade with a full liner, standard para 3 and vice versa. The LW blade seemingly transferred fine, though the lock didn't seem to engage as far on the tang. (Wondering if there is a slight variance in the blade?)

But, the standard para 3 blade pivot hole seems ever so slightly smaller in diameter, and the pivot pin from the standard version fit so tightly in it, that it did not open smoothly.

I also can't seem to be able to swap pins, because one side of the LW pivot pin is hexagonal shaped to fit into the FRN. Has anyone tried this swap? Any help would be appreciated! (And if all this sounds like gibberish, I felt the same way typing it out haha!)

115Italian · Nov 22, 2022

I’ve never done the swap but it sounds like the parts are slightly different. I’d let it go and leave it alone. That’s the best advice you’re going to get.

tknife · Nov 22, 2022

yep that's pretty much where I landed. Put them both back together as they were

bmo419 · Nov 22, 2022

I've done it a couple times. The Para 3 LW I had I think may have had a previous blade swap however as it had an S90V Blade but with black LW scales. Don't think that was ever a factory or dealer option afaik, though I know there was a Teal LW model with S90V. That said, I swapped the S90V blade into a G10 model and it worked just fine. Also threw the S45VN blade from the G10 model into the Black LW handles and that worked fine too.

Got another Para 3 LW recently that had an S30V blade in it, again a configuration I don't think was ever offered from the factory or a dealer so likely a transplant from a G10 model. I threw that into a different Para 3 LW scale set just fine.

I think the important bit I noticed when reassembling the Para 3 LW with a blade from a G10 model (or even its factory blade) is you really want to take care not to tighten the linerless side scale pivot screw too much as it'll prevent rotation as you described, therefore affecting the smoothness. You'll have to adjust the pivot screw very slightly, like 1/32 of a turn at a time. A small bit goes a long way to loosening it up and smoothing the action from what I discovered. This is because the linerless side doesn't have the second washer obviously so the blade is rubbing against the FRN with more friction.

Hashishiin · Nov 22, 2022

Any comp lock experts here? I need a PM2 with maple scales, the most beautiful scales, to be tuned properly, no crazy dropshut needed, just work the way a standard PM2 works? I suck at PM2 scale changing, last custom scales I bought, maker was in my state, this one is in Finland, so... I had a guy in TX set to do it but he went MIA, and it is really sad that this beautiful knife sits in a box... it is put together, but the action sucks (because I cannot do a comp lock right, had the same thing happen with diff materials, so it is not the knife or scales, using the bones of a brand new DLT Cruwear), would really appreciate help!

nevertakeadayoff · Nov 22, 2022

That's cool, glad it worked with the PM2.

I've been researching swapping blades on a Manix 2. They only have Maxamet in that lightweight crap. I determined the blades are different from the G10 Manix 2, so that's the end of it for me.

bmo419 · Nov 23, 2022

Hashishiin said:
Any comp lock experts here? I need a PM2 with maple scales, the most beautiful scales, to be tuned properly, no crazy dropshut needed, just work the way a standard PM2 works? I suck at PM2 scale changing, last custom scales I bought, maker was in my state, this one is in Finland, so... I had a guy in TX set to do it but he went MIA, and it is really sad that this beautiful knife sits in a box... it is put together, but the action sucks (because I cannot do a comp lock right, had the same thing happen with diff materials, so it is not the knife or scales, using the bones of a brand new DLT Cruwear), would really appreciate help!

What is it about the action that sucks exactly? Doesn't open/close smoothly? For PM2's, just to start from scratch, I'd loosen up all the screws to start from the beginning so to speak. Not all the way, just enough so that they're loose. If you have a set of pliers that'll fit inside the liners that'll help a lot. I like the knipex mini pliers wrench as they don't have any teeth like most other pliers, just flat jaws, and they fit perfectly between the liners. I use them to hold the stop pin and the lower threaded post in place while loosening or tightening the screws. Since the jaws are flat they don't damage the stop pin or the lower threaded post like say needle nose pliers with teeth would.

This is just the way I do it and not an expert or anything, but first tighten down the stop pin screws, then the lower threaded post screws on both sides. Try and keep the tightening as even as possible on each side. Only needs to be monkey tight, not gorilla tight. Next slowly tighten the pivot screws on the blade as evenly as possible while checking the action and blade centering. Ideally you'll want to go until they only just stop threading in. The screws may end up snug but not necessarily "tight" and that's totally fine. If you're lucky that's all you'll need to do.

If the action still feels too loose or too tight at this point, a little bit of torquing on the screw goes a long way in affecting the action, so try 1/32 or 1/16 of a turn. You want to get them as tight as you can while maintaining a good smooth action that's to your taste for how drop free you want it.

If you feel like you've loosened the pivot screws as much as you can but the knife still feels too tight, then you can loosen the stop pin screws slightly as well. Hope that helps.

mmyron1 · Nov 23, 2022

I have swapped blades. Long story short was gifted a replacement LW after someone snapped the tip off my Para 3. Never been a fan of the LW grips so I swapped the blades.

The swap went well enough. No issues really. Lock up is just as good as beforw the swap. No blade play at all. Still one of the smoothest opening knives I own. Now I have a G10 Para3 with BD1N blade which is perfectly fine for my daily use.

Hashishiin · Nov 29, 2022

bmo419 said:
What is it about the action that sucks exactly? Doesn't open/close smoothly? For PM2's, just to start from scratch, I'd loosen up all the screws to start from the beginning so to speak. Not all the way, just enough so that they're loose. If you have a set of pliers that'll fit inside the liners that'll help a lot. I like the knipex mini pliers wrench as they don't have any teeth like most other pliers, just flat jaws, and they fit perfectly between the liners. I use them to hold the stop pin and the lower threaded post in place while loosening or tightening the screws. Since the jaws are flat they don't damage the stop pin or the lower threaded post like say needle nose pliers with teeth would.

This is just the way I do it and not an expert or anything, but first tighten down the stop pin screws, then the lower threaded post screws on both sides. Try and keep the tightening as even as possible on each side. Only needs to be monkey tight, not gorilla tight. Next slowly tighten the pivot screws on the blade as evenly as possible while checking the action and blade centering. Ideally you'll want to go until they only just stop threading in. The screws may end up snug but not necessarily "tight" and that's totally fine. If you're lucky that's all you'll need to do.

If the action still feels too loose or too tight at this point, a little bit of torquing on the screw goes a long way in affecting the action, so try 1/32 or 1/16 of a turn. You want to get them as tight as you can while maintaining a good smooth action that's to your taste for how drop free you want it.

If you feel like you've loosened the pivot screws as much as you can but the knife still feels too tight, then you can loosen the stop pin screws slightly as well. Hope that helps.

Doesn't open or close smoothly, very jerky and awkward, can show a video example of it here. Cannot "lock" it in a good place, either tight or loose. This would be okay on a Buck 110, but I just want the PM2 to be a PM2, which I know it can be. The other problem is, just like last time I tried this, a screw free-spinning, maybe two, preventing me from taking it apart without another Torx screw. Some bladeplay, too, but surprisingly minimal.

Highly appreciate your words of wisdom, wish I had read this before my attempt. Will recall it in future efforts though, but thank you. I did not know this process.

But with that free-spinner, that is a true pathstopper for me, at least currently. Can't even attempt to go further on it until I buy more tools or figure the floating screws out. This is the knife, for reference, RAT scales, I managed, ha.

bmo419 · Nov 29, 2022

Hashishiin said:
Doesn't open or close smoothly, very jerky and awkward, can show a video example of it here. Cannot "lock" it in a good place, either tight or loose. This would be okay on a Buck 110, but I just want the PM2 to be a PM2, which I know it can be. The other problem is, just like last time I tried this, a screw free-spinning, maybe two, preventing me from taking it apart without another Torx screw. Some bladeplay, too, but surprisingly minimal.

Highly appreciate your words of wisdom, wish I had read this before my attempt. Will recall it in future efforts though, but thank you. I did not know this process.

But with that free-spinner, that is a true pathstopper for me, at least currently. Can't even attempt to go further on it until I buy more tools or figure the floating screws out. This is the knife, for reference, RAT scales, I managed, ha.

From what you describe, I think the pivot screws are maybe just too tight, but I'd have to see a video of it in action to be sure. Maybe one thing to check or be aware of is that the pivot is "D" shaped on one side so it needs to be slotted in to the correct side or else there will be a ton of blade play if it works at all.

SCTorrero · Nov 30, 2022

Hashishiin said:
Doesn't open or close smoothly, very jerky and awkward, can show a video example of it here. Cannot "lock" it in a good place, either tight or loose. This would be okay on a Buck 110, but I just want the PM2 to be a PM2, which I know it can be. The other problem is, just like last time I tried this, a screw free-spinning, maybe two, preventing me from taking it apart without another Torx screw. Some bladeplay, too, but surprisingly minimal.

Highly appreciate your words of wisdom, wish I had read this before my attempt. Will recall it in future efforts though, but thank you. I did not know this process.

But with that free-spinner, that is a true pathstopper for me, at least currently. Can't even attempt to go further on it until I buy more tools or figure the floating screws out. This is the knife, for reference, RAT scales, I managed, ha.

You just need to fiddle with it. Assemble, disassemble. Polishing the washers on some stropping compound can help. The trickiest thing is the lanyard hole. There is some cube thing that makes this easy, but I have just used a chopstick and patience. Aftermarket lanyard plugs or holes are a little smaller and easier to work with (if you replace original hardware).

A trick for the pivot is to fully tighten (don’t go crazy here). Then back off the lock side screw until the knife drops like you want it to.

For the free spinning screw, can you just tighten and hold the opposite side, going back and forth until both sides are loose? Needle nose pliers work, but you have to be careful not to mar the insert.

Also, some pm2s are just smoother than others.

Edit to add: the LW and standard blades seem to swap fine. I’m pretty sure it’s the same blade.