Anyone tried this anti scale compound?

I haven't seen that stuff, it looks interesting. Spray on ? I like the sound of that too. I have pretty good luck with PBC but I'm always looking for something "better".
 
MSC carries a antiscale compound that can be mixes with rubbing alcohol, and painted on. When dry, the antiscale shell can be knocked off, so take care going from drying to the furnace/forge

Ken
 
Looks interesting. The only thing I worry about is the minimum termperature of 1000 F. Does this mean that you have to preheat the blades to > 1000F
before coating? You have to put them directly in a preheated oven?
 
Spray it on?? That creates the same issues as sprinkeling it on, if not worse because of the carrier. Anyway, I'm very interested to find out about it. I've always liked the idea of Turco where you dip the unheated steel into the can to get it coated, then right to the forge.
I'm going to watch this thread with interest!!
 
dlpierson said:
Looks interesting. The only thing I worry about is the minimum termperature of 1000 F. Does this mean that you have to preheat the blades to > 1000F
before coating? You have to put them directly in a preheated oven?
Click to expand...

coat the blade and let it dry (if you dont let it dry it will just crumble off when the water starts to "boil") it comes off in the quench. I have tried it once and have 9 knifes ready to heat treat tonight, already coated
 
The knifes im working on now are kinda small so I dipped it in, its the consistancy of paint, so you can paint it on. Ill let you know more about how it works tomorrow after I heat treat them.
 
a little brdie told me that coating the blade with a few good coats of white out works..... seemed to work on the damascus folder i made.
just sanded lightly with 600 grit to take off the little bit of discoloration
 
Say, now I'm liking this. I guess I really don't mind PBC, it's done fine for me after I figured out the I needed to be at the high end of 600 before sprinkling it on. I use a pepper shaker, and I drilled out to holes in the top. I have a copper catch plate under where the knife would be suspended, and it gets just about all of what the blade doesn't get. What I didn't like about PBC was their directions to drag it through the stuff when the blade was at 600. Every time I "Drug" it, the dragging action knocked off more than we sprinkled on.
Anyway, looking forward to Drache's report tomorrow.
 
White out?? White out for typewriter corrections? I'd be very surprised if it would withstand the temps of heat treating, but then again I've never tried it.
 
worked for me.... i thought i was gonna use it to lay something out like dykem.... to figure the detent ball area or something
nope he said paint a few coats over the whole thing then let it dry.... then we Hted it and wiped it off nice and clean. no troubles. give it a try.
 
Well, Heat treat is done. The knifes I treated (1/16 inch steak knifes) were thin so I decided to use oil to quench instead of water. Unlike a water quench, the coating didn't come off in the water, nor did it rinse off the knife with hot water as stated on the website. Im not sure if the Oil quench had anything to do with it not coming off, but it took quite a bit of scrubbing. It did, however, prevent the scale and decarb that I had a problem with in the past. I will be heat treating some more in the near future and I will be using a brine solution for the quench :eek: Ill see if that makes the coating easier to remove. I have never tried PCB, but overall I think I will keep using the coating so I dont have to deal with scale and decarburization like I have in the past.

I also tried to use tempilaq over the coating, but it seemed to dissapear into the coating once the blade got hot, so I had to resort to the good old magnet. I will be experimenting again with the stuff tho, maybe on an uncoated portion of the blade.
 
Sound like a great product. I like the fact that it does not come off by itself like PBC. Because when I do multiple normalization I have to reapply PBC many times :mad:
 
Anybody tried nitrogen to keep the scale off? When we braize copper AC freon lines a trickle of nitrogen is going through all the time to keep scale from forming and causing problems with flow metering devices. I wonder if it would work on steel if you kept a slow flow going through the muffle in the forge?
 
I am sure nitrogen would work if you could keep all the oxegen purged from the area around the blade. A friend of mine used to work for a large industrial heat treating company (they did all leathermans stuff and many others) they had ovens that actually sealed and where flooded with argon.
 
Do you fellas use vertical or horizonal forges? If verticle, why not just remove the muffle and slot in a salt pot? or if horizonal, could you weld up a stand so the forge can be swiveled from horizonal to vertical and the muffle replaced with a pot? using salt should keep the oxy away from the steel and avoid decarb.
 
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