anyone tried this?

Joined
Sep 9, 2001
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got it from ckdforums.com

"I recently stumbled onto a technique with rather surprizing results. I was working on a pocket knife with unstabilized wood scales that I really wanted to take along to the show that I was scheduled for the following day.

Once I had done the shaping and finish sanding on the knife handle, I applied an even layer of acraglass to the scales (these were red palm). Immediately thereafter I heated the acraglass with a propane torch being careful to hold it 10-12" away in order not to scorch anything or damage the epoxy bond beneath the scales. I first noticed that the epoxy thinned conciderably and shortly thereafter the scales started to bubble showing that the epoxy was replacing the air in the wood. Within 1-2 minutes the bubbling ceased and the remaining acraglass on the surface ( a fraction of the original amount) had dried and hardened. I immediately took the knife to the belt grinder with a 400 grit belt and sanded the surface smooth.

Upon finishing, the hardness was seemed to be similiar to commercially stabilized wood and the porocity had been eliminated. Bingo! Stabilized scales. Being a finished knife, I had no way of checking for total penetration but I'm confident that it was quite good because of the amount of bubbling that the scales had done during the heating process as well as the reduction in volume of epoxy on the surface."

Gary


- sounds akin to using superglue for a final finish. only agraglass should prove to be much stronger no?
 
Sounds very good to me, in that I would like to experiment with it. I doubt seriously that the scales are penetrated completely. As the air expands the epoxy will try to fill the partial vacumm. You may have a very well sealed set of scales there. I must try that on a blank piece of wood.

Roger
 
its funny that you responded first. i was initially gonna call the topic "Roger, have you tried this?" because of your work with riflestocks and acraglass.

i havent tried it yet myself, i just robbed someone's topic from custom knife directory and decided to see what folks over here thought about it.

i dont post much over there, but i like to browse :)
 
sounds like he was really lucky and next time it will go from bad to worse in 10 seconds flat and the thing will start on fire or maybe the handle will just start delaminating on the spot. I cant see this as a very careful way to make knives.
 
Originally posted by tom mayo
sounds like he was really lucky and next time it will go from bad to worse in 10 seconds flat and the thing will start on fire or maybe the handle will just start delaminating on the spot. I cant see this as a very careful way to make knives.

Maybe a hot air gun can be more interesting ???
I use mine to heat my epoxy when I make mosaic pins
(the epoxy become very liquid...)

Alain M-D
 
Sounds like you were out to get me..:D You did. ;)

Just for that I ain't goina try it. SO there!

Actually though I have artificially heated epoxies a little bit in order to thin them some for minor penetration. They cure quicker but I should have realized right off that Brownells's Acraglass will not cure enough to polish in 10 minutes :confused:. I have never tried an epoxy for finish because I never thought that I could get it smooth enough. That does not mean it can not be done because I know for a fact there are those that do use it for that.

Roger
 
In the past, I have used heat to make epoxy "runny", by heating it with a hair dryer, so that it would soak into a joint better. It works quite well. The epoxy also sets much faster. This did not seem to affect the strength of the joint (putting models airplanes back together after a crash). The hair dryer never got the epoxy or wood hot enough that there was any singeing or charring so it should be safe to use on your handle. Heat guns will get much hotter. I would suggest doing it outside or at least in a well ventilated space since you never know what fumes might be comming off the epoxy when it is heated above it's normal setting temperature. Also be careful not to continue to heat it so long that it is still bubbling when the epoxy is really starting to set since it will get thick and gooey, even with the heat, and you will have air bubbles permanently trapped in it.

Note that many adhesives, epoxy included, have a set time and a time to reach maximum strength. The heat should make the epoxy reach it's maximum strength much sooner. This may prevent it from being ripped or chipped off when you do your finishing work soon after it is set.

Phil
 
I have a friend, Bud Wasson, that is quite an artist and carver. He has told me of heating pieces of wood and then gluing and clamping wood together very tightly when preparing to carve birds. he claims you have such a fine glue joint that you can't even see the joint because of the glue penetration. There is also a formula to thin accraglass for finishing or sealing wood. The additive to the mixed accuglas escapes me, but I have heard it works really great.I beleive Bud heats his wood to about 120 degrees or better. When I find out from him the actual temp I will post it.Tomorrow I'll try to find out from Brownell's the accuglass thinning process from their staff.
 
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