Anyone try to keep the convex edge

[Denix]

Hi guys.

For a long time, I've been sharpening my knives using a sharpmaker and getting excellent results. Hair popping scary sharp results with most of my knives, including my Sebenza.

Then, I discovered Bark River.

I bought a Northstar, and in one of Mike's amazing giveaway's I won a Southern Skinner. For those that don't know Bark River, they use a full convex edge on all their knives. At first I didn't think much, and to me, the knives didn't feel as sharp as my other knives. Boy, was I wrong! Those convex edges cut like nothing I've ever owned before. On top of that, the edges seem to be exceptionally strong.

Once you get a handle on the technique (our own Buzzbait wrote an outstanding FAQ on convex sharpening), convex edges are pretty easy to maintain.

So, I think I'm going to try to go back to a convex edge on my Sebbie. Has anyone else tried to keep the convex on their Sebenza, or One Piece? Normal sharpening on a Sharpmaker or EdgePro will eventually remove the convex.

Guy

 

[Andy_L]

I haven't done much sharpening on mine but I've put convex edges on knives that didn't come with them so the sebbi will stay convex
if you look in this pic

you can see a block of wood with some foam backing glued to it. I hold abrasive paper on this with drawing pins to keep a convex edge sharp.

often I'll just use a mouse pad though

 

[kennyj]

What paper do you use with the mousepad technique?

I've got a Sebbie on its way and I want to have the full details of the sharpening process figured out before I start using it. I plan to learn by reprofiling a few old flea market throwaways to 20 degree convex or 20/15 bevel edges for practice; I think I've got the idea down for the back bevelling but I want to maintain that Sebbie's profile for as long as I can.

 

[Denix]

I believe you can use any decent sandpaper, going from a coarse to fine grit. Personally, I use a strop paddle from Lee Valley, charged with their green chromium paste on one side, and natural leather on the other. Since I touch up my knives frequently, I never need any more than that.

Guy

 

[kennyj]

Another concern of mine... how well can the finish be maintained with stropping? The reading I've done has pointed out in a few places that stropping can demolish a finish quite easily, as it often affects the entire blade and not just the edge.

I happen to have a Sharpmaker also... would it be ideal to just strop the knives to maintain the edge and concave shape, or use the Sharpmaker for that and strop in order to maintain the concave bevel?

 

[MD13]

I was gonna ask something similar. Are you guys that keep the convex edges maintaining edges on leather or with the mousepad technique? I'm kinda in the dark on this because I don't want to grind off too much material if I'm just sharpening to maintain the blade.

Normally on flat grinds, I sharpen a secondary bevel, and then the primary. Then when it comes time, I just touch up the primary grind with a couple swipes on the 'ol sharpmaker. If I don't reprofile this knife, what's the easiest way to maintain the convex edge without needlessly removing too much material? Mousepad with a high grit paper, or loaded strop?

 

[kennyj]

My Sebbie just got in... Large Classic made in 2001 (never used.) Somehow I wonder if this blade will ever need a reprofiling. That edge seems almost flat for a good portion of the way up towards the spine, to the point that you'd probably want to reblade by the time you wear it to where the taper gets significantly wider. I think I understand now why CRK simply recommends the Sharpmaker and leaves it at that... It looks to my admittedly untrained eye that a single bevel would be enough even if it dulled completely (I can't see any evidence of a secondary bevel, just a straight V edge.) Am I missing something here?

 

[Denix]

The fact that the Sebenza is hollow ground to begin with, you can never get a full convex like a Bark River. Sharpening a Bark River sharpens the whole blade, so yes, it does hurt the finish for those knives. However, since the Sebbie is hollow, the only part that gets convexed is the actual edge (although if you lay the blade completely flat, you will scratch the blade above the hollow, which can affect the finish).

The Sharpmaker will effectively remove the convex, so I figure that it's one or the other (experts please chime in ). Unfortunately, I don't have a good magnifying glass, so I can't really judge if stropping is really effective on maintaining the convex on the Sebenza. I'm really theorizing here...

MD13: I use natural and charged leather glued on a board (I bought it at Lee Valley). I'd think that the mousepad may get better results, but the leather strop does a quick and easy job on my Barkies, so I just stick with that.

Guy

 

[MD13]

Thanks Guy. I may just go ahead and reprofile to something like 10 or 12 secondary, and 15 primary to get a little better slicing and touch up with the Sharpmaker at 15. :thumbup: