Anyone use a dedicated "Pin Press"?

Different strokes for different folks, but I suspect Rube Goldberg would be proud. I doubt using a hydraulic press gives you much fine control.
All you really need is a hammer and anvil.
 
A common technique amongst slipjoint makers is using a large milling vise with hardened jaws followed by hammer anvil. There is a DVD of Craig Brewer making slipjoints that shows the method.
 
But in all honesty, I think a press could be very functional. He says he's been using it for over 30 years. In another video he says his father made it for him. In this video he does finish them off with a hammer but they look pretty well compressed coming out of the press.

around the 7:38 mark...


Here is the time-stamped link that should start at the 7:38 mark...
 
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GENERALLY, cutlery pins use a head to hold things together. The head can be exposed or flush.
Far too many people think a rivet has to be beaten/forced to swell the shank. While this might be the preferred method when building steel buildings and bridges, it is mostly unnecessary for cutlery.
That said, if it works, it works.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
GENERALLY, cutlery pins use a head to hold things together. The head can be exposed or flush.
Far too many people think a rivet has to be beaten/forced to swell the shank. While this might be the preferred method when building steel buildings and bridges, it is mostly unnecessary for cutlery.
That said, if it works, it works.
Click to expand...
I do think the concept would help provide for a more consistent compression of the pin, than just random hammering. But to each his own. The guy I linked seems to like it and has 30 years' experience with one.
 
The important thing shown in that photo is not so much in the press (OK, that is cool!), but in the two vise grips. If the tang holes are snug to the pins, as the pin expands it will try to lift the bolsters from the tang. If just laying the knife on your anvil unclamped, the gap will never close no matter how much you hammer.
The way to cure the dreaded bolster gap is:
1) Clamp very tight as shown in the photo - This works with a press, but not with a hammer. It may also damage a soft bolster material.
2) Countersink (chamfer) the tang holes and the inside bolster holes on both sides a good amount - This provides a space for the pin to expand as the head is seated into the outside chamfers/reaming. Doing this will eliminate any chance of a raised bolster. It would work either with a hammer or a press. Drilling the tang holes a few thousandths oversize is also wise.

I like to ream the pin holes in the bolster so the hole tapers all the way through the bolster. This assures a tight pin no matter how much you grind away on the head in finishing. After reaming, I still chamfer the inside holes and tang as above. Done this way you have to drill the pin out to remove the bolster.

If I have a .125" pin (exact) I use a .135 reamer. It will be TIGHT when peened.
 
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This thread is timely, am doing my 2nd and third steel bolsters. first turned out well, mostly by luck.
 
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