Anyone using Redwood Burl for handles?

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Mar 6, 2015
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I am running in to trouble with Redwood burl for handles on my razors. When I drill for the hinge pin it will crack sometimes. I am using new bits with lube and going slow. I know the wood is thin, 1/8th to 3/16, but it should not break in two( I think). The wood has been stabilized and sometimes I have success with no problems.

Unlike a knife handle which is laminated to the blade, these handles are stand alone and have no backing.

Any suggestions for working with this wood?

Unfortunately, I can't get a picture on here to show the problem. URL??? Here is a link to one that worked good.

http://www.thesuperiorshave.com/images/js_033_1.jpg

Thanks for the advice, Jerry
 
Here ya go ....
js_033_1.jpg


I was gonna suggest that you add liners as well. Get em all epoxied up (obviously) and let it cure before you drill.

This may be dumb, but I wonder if adding a layer of tape (say blue painters tape) on both sides of the scales could help? It couldn't hurt to try, and I know plenty of guys do use tape when drilling through wood so it won't tear out on the opposite side you're drilling from when exiting the wood.

Hope you're able to figure it out, it's a shame for such a beautiful wood to go to waste like that..

And btw, that razor is very beautiful! :)
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Edited to add: If you want to post a picture, just copy the picture url, which is the same as the link you posted, and click on the small icon that looks a bit like a window, which is just above the typing area, then enter (paste) the picture url into the box that pops up, click "OK", and that's all there is to it! ;) It's the icon in the second row down, and it's the 4th icon in from the far right side. If you hover your mouse over it, it will say "Insert Image"...

~Paul

My YT Channel Lsubslimed
 
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I think there's more to consider than just getting the wood to not crack when making the razor. If the material is this delicate, what are the chances it will crack at a later date due to use? I would put it on a G10 or even a thin Ti liner. The simple answer to keep it from cracking when drilling is to leave the scale larger until after the holes are drilled.

Bob
 
Here ya go ....
js_033_1.jpg


I was gonna suggest that you add liners as well. Get em all epoxied up (obviously) and let it cure before you drill.

This may be dumb, but I wonder if adding a layer of tape (say blue painters tape) on both sides of the scales could help? It couldn't hurt to try, and I know plenty of guys do use tape when drilling through wood so it won't tear out on the opposite side you're drilling from when exiting the wood.

Hope you're able to figure it out, it's a shame for such a beautiful wood to go to waste like that..

And btw, that razor is very beautiful! :)
---------------------------------------------------------------

Edited to add: If you want to post a picture, just copy the picture url, which is the same as the link you posted, and click on the small icon that looks a bit like a window, which is just above the typing area, then enter (paste) the picture url into the box that pops up, click "OK", and that's all there is to it! ;) It's the icon in the second row down, and it's the 4th icon in from the far right side. If you hover your mouse over it, it will say "Insert Image"...

~Paul

My YT Channel Lsubslimed

I tried to post a picture but my profile says I may not do so. Maybe I haven't made enough posts yet.
 
Nice looking razor. Kind of off topic... how have you been finishing the wood?
 
Have you tried clamping the redwood burl between two pieces of scrap hardwood and then drilling through all three? This will help support the redwood burl, but RangerBob is most likely correct about future breakage.
 
I think there's more to consider than just getting the wood to not crack when making the razor. If the material is this delicate, what are the chances it will crack at a later date due to use? I would put it on a G10 or even a thin Ti liner. The simple answer to keep it from cracking when drilling is to leave the scale larger until after the holes are drilled.

Bob

I think you are correct about the liner. I use 1/32nd G-10 sometimes but was trying to avoid it with the redwood. The beauty of the wood is so pure I did not want to spoil it with a manmade material. i will just have to bite the bullet and go to a liner. Do you know a source for very thin carbon fiber?
 
I think you are correct about the liner. I use 1/32nd G-10 sometimes but was trying to avoid it with the redwood. The beauty of the wood is so pure I did not want to spoil it with a manmade material. i will just have to bite the bullet and go to a liner. Do you know a source for very thin carbon fiber?
Hey if you want to stick with natural materials, you could use a horn insert as a liner or as a "bolster" (for lack of a better term).
 
You might try using another piece of redwood for a "liner". In my experience just the offset of the grains of the two pieces reduces splitting. With two good surfaces well clamped with your adhesive of choice it will become unnoticeable
 
I use a dremel with a burr instead of a drill bit. some burls like low rpm and some higher1/16 burrs are fairly easy to find online. you can also try ca (superglue) finish it adds stability.
 
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