I love my KME and I've solved most of my problems but just simply learning how to use it. However after using the chosera a last night you can easily tell the tip of the knifes edge is different from the back of the edge and I can't not for the life of me fix this. I can still get it sharp, but not even. I've read that the Apex doesn't have this problem because you can move the knife. Does the wicked edge suffer from the same deal? Is the edge even all the way through?
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Apex, wicked edge, KME... I ven edge from back to front?
- Thread starter No1up
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It's what I was referring to in another thread... even though you set the angle based on the distance from the pivot to the edge, that angle can change in the curved area depending on the distance, so you have to adjust the knife to compensate.
Here's the instructions from Wicked Edge... the same principle applies to the KME:
(See this page: Finding the Sweet Spot for more info).
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Hi,
You know there is this sharpener with a rail for the pivot, knife doesn't move
That's nice for long blades. But for any blade with a curved tip you will still need to find the sweet spot where the curve of the tip matches the path of the stone so as to minimize the angle change.
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Kinda, its pretty much automatic if you remember to keep the stone perpendicular to the edge,
just like with freehand, that way even as you sharpen curve/tip/belly/recuve,
you maintain correct angle.
First a different picture of edgepail rail where the tip is different curve from rest of blade, followed by freehand sharpening curve following animation
Kinda, its pretty much automatic if you remember to keep the stone perpendicular to the edge,
just like with freehand, that way even as you sharpen curve/tip/belly/recuve,
you maintain correct angle.
First a different picture of edgepail rail where the tip is different curve from rest of blade, followed by freehand sharpening curve following animation
It's no more automatic than with any of the guided rod sharpeners. The clamp has to be placed at a spot where the circular arc of the stone best fits the curve of the tip, which will vary for each knife. Either trial and error or math. I've used pretty much every guided sharpener from the Lansky to the wicked edge. The geometry is the same. The details, precision, and repeatability is what separate them. The moveable rail saves you from having to reclamation for long blades, which is nice. But sharpening the tip is far from automatic. Try sharpening it with your clamp at different positions and see what happens.
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its as automatic as freehand, like in the animation,If you do the same with this rail system,
keep the stone perpendicular to the edge,
the rail will move into the correct position (automatic)
There is no math and practically no trial/error required,
just line it up so the part of edge you're sharpening is at 90 degrees to the stone,
line up the top/bottom of abrasive with the very edge,
when you do this, the rail is in correct position and the angle is the same
Chefs pivot point can be moved in three dimensions, up and down, forward and back, right and left.
Chef have a fixed distance between the edge and the pivot point, that distance is 28 cm (Chef are also adjustble for blade width).
The distance, 28 cm, are marked on the guide rods. This make it very simple to always hold the distance 28 cm between the pivot point and the edge, also on the belly and tip.
In the pic above, I have adjust the sled (right/ left) on the rail to the right when I come to the belly so that the distance are 28 cm. This means that the angle will be exactly the same as on the straight part of the edge.
Chef works differently compare to other sharpening tools. In the picture above you can se the rail and its sled (with the pivot point mounted on the sled). The Rail are mounted on another "sled", I have named that part " The runner". The runner can slide forward and back on Chefs upper part and be locked in any position. I use the runner to fix the distance 28 cm (with the help of the markings on the guide rods).
The straight part will get the same edge angle automaticle - but the angle changes when the sharpener comes to the belly. To compensate this change I keep the distance 28 cm by moving the sled (pivot point) to the right in the picture -and by doing that I keep the correct distance - and the edge will get the same edge angle all along the edge, from the belly out to the tip. Both for straight edges and convex edges (Chef sharpens also true convex edges in wanted degrees on the edge and in wanted degrees on the convex sphere).
Thomas
Chef have a fixed distance between the edge and the pivot point, that distance is 28 cm (Chef are also adjustble for blade width).
The distance, 28 cm, are marked on the guide rods. This make it very simple to always hold the distance 28 cm between the pivot point and the edge, also on the belly and tip.
In the pic above, I have adjust the sled (right/ left) on the rail to the right when I come to the belly so that the distance are 28 cm. This means that the angle will be exactly the same as on the straight part of the edge.
Chef works differently compare to other sharpening tools. In the picture above you can se the rail and its sled (with the pivot point mounted on the sled). The Rail are mounted on another "sled", I have named that part " The runner". The runner can slide forward and back on Chefs upper part and be locked in any position. I use the runner to fix the distance 28 cm (with the help of the markings on the guide rods).
The straight part will get the same edge angle automaticle - but the angle changes when the sharpener comes to the belly. To compensate this change I keep the distance 28 cm by moving the sled (pivot point) to the right in the picture -and by doing that I keep the correct distance - and the edge will get the same edge angle all along the edge, from the belly out to the tip. Both for straight edges and convex edges (Chef sharpens also true convex edges in wanted degrees on the edge and in wanted degrees on the convex sphere).
Thomas
That is how all the guided sharpeners work. I think the nice thing about the rail is that, as you said, you can clamp the knife in and then slide it to find the sweet spot. For the wicked edge I have to trial and error test to find the right spot, but the geometry and math is the same. Find a place where the distance from pivot to edge stays more or less constant. There is no automatic. Either way you have to locate the correct spot.
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