Applying Compound to Strops

S

Strong-Dog

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Mar 1, 2014
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I know this has been discussed, but I have a specific situation. I have a Stropman HD Compact with black and white compound, and another one coming with green and red. I applied the black and white by just rubbing it on like a crayon, but does anyone have a better, more specific way that yields better results? Like how much to put on, to use a hairdryer or not, how to rub it on, etc.?

Also, how long should I strop on each compound? If I strop too long, it seems to dull my edge (yes I'm careful about my angle and pressure), and if I strop too short it doesn't do anything. Thanks
 
I have his product as well. Just as of a few days ago.
Do not use heat, just use the crayon method. I do the whole strop in opposite diagonal directions. Once you get going it applies well. I then just drag the whole stick on its side across the leather. Im sure everyone does it different.
I only use black and then green. I find green gets as good of a polish as red after the black removes the sharpening marks..

If you are dulling your edge you are spending too much time on the black or using too steep of an angle..

The only thing you should be doing is practicing and getting better each time. What steels are you sharpening by the way. I only use it on my S35VN CRK and the few that I sharpen.
Matt
 
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BellaBlades said:
I have his product as well. Just as of a few days ago.
Do not use heat, just use the crayon method. I do the whole strop in opposite diagonal directions. Once you get going it applies well. I then just drag the whole stick on its side across the leather. Im sure everyone does it different.
I only use black and then green. I find green gets as good of a polish as red after the black removes the sharpening marks..

If you are dulling your edge you are spending too much time on the black or using too steep of an angle..

The only thing you should be doing us practicing and getting better each time. What steels are you sharpening by the way. I only use it on my S35VN CRK and the few that I sharpen.
Matt
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That makes sense. I have used it on Superblue with good results, CPM-154 with I feel like the same sharpness just convexed, CTS-XHP that feels sharp but doesn't shave hair as well as before. Also on VG-10 with poor results.
 
I just got my first strop and it's been interesting trying to get it right. I have dulled a few edges and have improved others. There was a post here a while ago about how much pressure to use. Hopefully I'll get better at this with some more practice and experience.
 
I have good luck applying polishing compound by heating the stick of compound and the strop leather on my electric stove. I don't touch the stove, only holding the stick of compound close enough to heat it. It then flows on more easily. I do not layer it deeply, only working it into the leather.

I have to try both the angle at which I hold the blade and the number of strokes I take for each blade. I find 1095 steel acts differently than AUS8. The bevel on my hunting knives reacts differently than my kitchen knives.

You may need more than one strop. If you use black initially, you cannot get it all out to switch to green polish. You need a fresh strop to step down in grit size.
 
If its powdered compound
I warm up the strop in the oven for a few minutes 200deg dip my finger in mineral oil then in the powder and draw X X X X down the strop. Even coats
 
GearJammer said:
If its powdered compound
I warm up the strop in the oven for a few minutes 200deg dip my finger in mineral oil then in the powder and draw X X X X down the strop. Even coats
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Ok, so warm strop, apply mineral oil, than rub on compound. I'll try that next time
 
I would not add any oil, or mineral oil to it.
Honestly you dont need it. And the strop will love longer if you do not.
Im not saying you cant. But it really is not needed.
Heat up the strop over the stove top if you want.
But shaving off small pieces with a butter knife then rubbing them in with the compound stick works wonders.
I would highly recommend that as well as stropman.
He sends out instructions with every strop that he sends out. You should read them again. And that would solve all your problems.
Matt

Strong-Dog said:
Ok, so warm strop, apply mineral oil, than rub on compound. I'll try that next time
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If it is in crayon form just color in the strop. Don't cake it on there just apply it evenly.

I was talking about powdered compound not in bar form. I have used oil with no I'll effects. Use it or not just noticed it really gets into strop well from my limited experience
 
A little bit of mineral oil won't hurt leather. (It won't 'help' the leather either, but it won't hurt it.)

It doesn't take much compound to be effective. "THIS" is just about perfect for effective stropping.
But "here's what most new strop users" try to create. It works, but it's overkill, although it 'looks' as if it would do a better job.


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
A little bit of mineral oil won't hurt leather. (It won't 'help' the leather either, but it won't hurt it.)

It doesn't take much compound to be effective. "THIS" is just about perfect for effective stropping.
But "here's what most new strop users" try to create. It works, but it's overkill, although it 'looks' as if it would do a better job.


Stitchawl
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Very helpful, mine looks much closer to your first pic
 
If you need to add oil to leather. Neatsfoot oil or olive oil is the best. any product with petroleum in it will deteriorate the leather.
 
jaymack9100 said:
If you need to add oil to leather. Neatsfoot oil or olive oil is the best. any product with petroleum in it will deteriorate the leather.
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With all due respect, jaymack, light use of mineral oil won't damage the leather. It won't necessarily help it, but it's safe to use for 'some' leathers. Actually, even "Armor-all" can be used effectively on some leathers, especially really old dried-out chrome-tanned leather! Brings it right back to life!

Any oil, even Neatsfoot Oil, if used too heavily is not good for the leather. Put it on a rag, then rub the rag onto the leather. Don't just pour it on directly. Saturating leather with oil isn't always a good thing... although there IS a type of leather that is called 'oil-stuffed' but that is made with a very heavy grease during production rather than a light Neatsfoot oil soaking afterwards.

And be careful about the Neatsfoot Oil you purchase. A LOT of it is not pure 100% animal product. Several well-know brands mix mineral oil in with the natural neatsfoot oil, calling their product "Prime Neatsfoot Oil." The real stuff is made from the shin bones of cows (not from their hooves) and is a yellow-colored oil that people used to use for dry skin before they discovered that lanolin from sheep worked better for that. Great stuff for veg-tanned leathers that will be used outdoors, such as saddlery and other equestrian tack. Wash the leather with a good glycerin soap and water, let it dry, then rub in Neatsfoot oil and it will last and last and last!


Stitchawl
 
I heat the leather over the stove top then color on the compound. I use a finger tip to smooth the compound on the leather while the leather is still warm. It seems to give a smooth and even coating.
 
stitchawl said:
With all due respect, jaymack, light use of mineral oil won't damage the leather. It won't necessarily help it, but it's safe to use for 'some' leathers. Actually, even "Armor-all" can be used effectively on some leathers, especially really old dried-out chrome-tanned leather! Brings it right back to life!

Any oil, even Neatsfoot Oil, if used too heavily is not good for the leather. Put it on a rag, then rub the rag onto the leather. Don't just pour it on directly. Saturating leather with oil isn't always a good thing... although there IS a type of leather that is called 'oil-stuffed' but that is made with a very heavy grease during production rather than a light Neatsfoot oil soaking afterwards.

And be careful about the Neatsfoot Oil you purchase. A LOT of it is not pure 100% animal product. Several well-know brands mix mineral oil in with the natural neatsfoot oil, calling their product "Prime Neatsfoot Oil." The real stuff is made from the shin bones of cows (not from their hooves) and is a yellow-colored oil that people used to use for dry skin before they discovered that lanolin from sheep worked better for that. Great stuff for veg-tanned leathers that will be used outdoors, such as saddlery and other equestrian tack. Wash the leather with a good glycerin soap and water, let it dry, then rub in Neatsfoot oil and it will last and last and last!


Stitchawl
Click to expand...

These sound like the words of a man who has ridden hard and far over his lifetime. Nothing teaches you how to care for leather like caring for saddles and tack.
 
The easiest thing is to get spray-on compounds instead of the crayons. Let the carrier dry and start stropping.
 
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