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Applying wax to knifes

Joined
Nov 23, 2012
Messages
941
Hey this is kind of an odd question I admit but I was wondering how you guys apply wax to your carbon knives. I have been using turtle wax on my randall but have a feeling I'm applying it incorrectly. Also how thick a coat should be applied. Pictures greatly appreciated.
 
Isn't Turtle Wax water based? That seems like a bad idea for carbon steel.

Johnson's paste wax from Home Depot goes on a bit like shoe polish. A shoe shine brush works well to buff it off.

Or, you can heat the blade a bit with a hair dryer and rub it with a piece of solid wax. Further heating will get it to run into the crannies. Let cool and buff.
 
Moved to MT&E

A thin coat is all that's needed
 
Isn't Turtle Wax water based? That seems like a bad idea for carbon steel.

Johnson's paste wax from Home Depot goes on a bit like shoe polish. A shoe shine brush works well to buff it off.

Or, you can heat the blade a bit with a hair dryer and rub it with a piece of solid wax. Further heating will get it to run into the crannies. Let cool and buff.

I'm not sure if turtle wax is water based or not. I had it coated for a little over a week with no issues. If anything the brass hilt seemed more polished. When I orignially had frog lube on it a few black streaks started to develop along the satin.

I want to try ren wax but have no idea where to get it locally
 
I use Flitz Knife/Gun wax that comes with the Knife/Gun kit, I apply it, let it dry, buff & done
The site says, its food safe too
 
Just go to the supermarket and buy a can of Kiwi neutral paste shoe polish. It's much cheaper than the high dollar "designer/museum wax," and it protects better.
 
If you use wax, like your car wax, put it on like your car. Rub in, let dry, rub off.

If you're going to use Greenland Wax or other paraffin based wax, applying a "little" heat to smooth it out helps. This can be done by burnishing (friction heat & smoothing) or other various methods. If you look to ski/snowboard industry, you can find burnishing blocks made of cork and/or plastics (I keep one in ski pack along with assorted waxes for various temp's).

Regards,
Christopher
 
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Turtle wax (and any other car wax for that matter) works fine on steel. Last time I used normal turtle wax though was years ago, and it had a green dye in it at the time. Using that around knives with leather handles is asking for a permanent stain to happen. Car waxes also tend to chalk up on rough or porous surfaces. The Kiwi neutral Bill suggested is an excellent wax for both the wood and leather and won't chalk up or discolor things other than a slight darkening of very dry leathers.
 
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