Aqua Salt tang???

[elkins45]

I recently picked up an Aqua Salt and I've been using it as the ultimate carefree kitchen knife. I'm thinking of putting one into my outdoors/SHTF/bushcraft rotation, but I need a little info about the tang/handle configuration first.

Is the tang relatively full? By that I mean does it extend for most of the full length of the handle or is a little stubby tang with the handle just injection molded onto the end like the plastic-handled Moras are?

I would love to see a photo of a Aqua Salt before it goes to the handle making machine, or to hear from Sal or Kristi on the matter.

 

[Joshua J.]

If you have any strong magnets around that would work. Just see where it stops sticking. A studfinder might do the trick too (some have metal detecting capabilities).

 

[Franco G]

It was already said in some thread that Aqua Salt does not have a full tang. I would bet the tang is only 1/3 of the handle length.
Sal would probably say nobody ever complained about broken handle.
Maybe. But with a full tang, it would be MUCH stronger.
Otherwise, knife makers would not make a full tang. Think about Busse, Fehrman, Cold Steel, Chris Reeve, SOG knives.

Personally, I would really like an Aqua Salt with a full tang.

Franco

 

[Sal Glesser]

Hi Elkins,

It's about 3/4ths of the way through the handle, which is injected molded onto the notched tang. We've got a picture coming.

Franco is right about my answer. You won't break it.

If Franco would like to send a Busse, Fehrman, Cold Steel, Chris Reeve and SOG models, I would be happy to break them for you and compare strength graphs. We have the equipment to test them and I wouldn't mind a bit of a wager on the results.

Full tangs have an advantage in that if the scales breaks off, the knife can still be used.

Disadvantages:

The scales are held on with pins, rivets or screws which are weaker than a quality FRN handle injected onto the tang.

The full tang permits moisture to get under the scale which can induce rust (not a problem with H1).

Full tangs add weight, even when tapered or skeletonized.

sal

 

[tazkristi]

Here are the pics Sal promised.

Kristi

 

[Phil Brown]

Well, I like full tangs myself, but... it sure looks strong enough to me. And that handle is not coming off for anything. Spyderco continues to amaze.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Wow! That tang is a lot wider than I expected! And that incredibly broad and sloping shoulder pretty much eliminates all chances of stress fractures. And H-1 is tough stuff to begin with.

Incidentally, what is the breaking strength? Inquiring minds want to know!

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Double post.

 

[Josh K]

If Franco would like to send a Busse, Fehrman, Cold Steel, Chris Reeve and SOG models, I would be happy to break them for you and compare strength graphs. We have the equipment to test them and I wouldn't mind a bit of a wager on the results.

I remember a picture of a Salt I or Pacific Salt in H1 with a ~40 degree bend right after the tang... No fracturing or splitting, not deformation at all.

 

[elkins45]

Yeah, that tang is plenty long and rugged enough for me. Even if the handle melted off there's still enough left to get a decent grip on. I've seen pictures of Mora Craftsman knives with the handle broken off and it looked like the blade only extended into the handle an inch or so. The Aqua Salt is in a whole different league as far as I'm concerned.

I guess I need to revise my understanding of just what constitutes a 'full tang'---I always considered any knife where the tang extended the full length of the handle to be a full tang, even if it didn't extend all the way to the edge of the scales and was hidden inside the handle. I always thought of (for example) the Fallkniven F1 as a full-tang blade because the tang extends out the back of the injection molded handle. Guess I'll need to revise my terminology.

Thanks to Sal and Kristi for the response. I'm happy to say that I am completely satisfied with your replies and equally satisfied with my new knife!

 

[Franco G]

Hi Elkins,

It's about 3/4ths of the way through the handle, which is injected molded onto the notched tang. We've got a picture coming.

Franco is right about my answer. You won't break it.

If Franco would like to send a Busse, Fehrman, Cold Steel, Chris Reeve and SOG models, I would be happy to break them for you and compare strength graphs. We have the equipment to test them and I wouldn't mind a bit of a wager on the results.

Full tangs have an advantage in that if the scales breaks off, the knife can still be used.

Disadvantages:

The scales are held on with pins, rivets or screws which are weaker than a quality FRN handle injected onto the tang.

The full tang permits moisture to get under the scale which can induce rust (not a problem with H1).

Full tangs add weight, even when tapered or skeletonized.

sal

Sal, thanks for answer and a proposal.
I have no doubt you would destroy mentioned knives - after all noss4 did that and I can play his videos.
However, my point is that a knife with a full tang is stronger than the same knife with 1/4 tang. A full tang knife acts as an 'integral' knife, i. e. a one-piece-knife and, this is just a physics, one-piece-tool is always stronger than two-piece-object. For integral knives slabs do not matter much.

Saying that, I must admit that I am very much impressed with photos shown. A full tang would add only a fraction of strength - in a way Aqua is 'almost' a full tang construction. I'll be very happy to get one for the summer adventures at sea coast. Congratulations, Sal.

Also, it seems to me a tang construction in Aqua is significantly better than in Mora or old Temperance, see a 'roentgen' picture

One can easily see that Aqua's tang is radiused which is very important property adding significantly to strength.

Franco

 

[Sal Glesser]

Thanx Franco, I did use a full skeletonized tang on the Temperrance2 and I prefer it that way for that model.

sal