Aranyik - How to lighten the steel handle?

D

davidf99

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2011
Messages
2,658
I got a 20" Aranyik-Udom-Chao-Integral-Dao on the forum exchange recently. Probably a "blem" or a piece that was not finished, though the working end is fine. Pics below.

It's a great piece of steel, but the handle-tang is 1/2" thick solid steel and way too heavy.

I'm interested in ideas for the best way to lighten the weight in the handle.

Probably the best solution would be to drill holes in the handle, but I don't have a drill press. I do have a good hand drill, but it seems like it would take forever to hand-drill enough holes in that thick steel.

I also have a good saber saw with metal-cutting blades and can probably trim the top and bottom edges of the handle to make it narrower, then add paracord to bring it back to the right girth. I could also cut off the end, but I hate to lose the nice bird-shaped butt part.

I have no experience sawing or drilling steel of that thickness, so I'd appreciate advice before starting. Preferably by someone who's actually done it. :)

View attachment 450096

View attachment 450097

View attachment 450098
 
While you wait for somebody with experience, how about the idea of drilling 4 holes (corners) and sawing out a rectangle from the space between the existing holes, leaving maybe 1/4" of steel above and below the cutout?
 
I'd give up if I were you. I don't think a hand drill and a carbide bit will make a dent in that thing. If the point of balance is around 3 inches from the hilt I'd just live with it.
 
Dang!! that is one serious chunk of tree-cutter there. As someone who has zero experiance with this topic. I eagerly await someone answering so I will know too. Though I am going to guess the words drill, holes and lots will be in the description of the effort somewhere. On the other hand we got some pretty ingenious folks here. Perhaps they will have better ideas.
 
blue lander: There's no clear point where the handle ends and the blade begins, but the point of balance is right in the middle, about 10 inches from either end. The cutting end is much wider, but the tang end is much thicker.

The steel is 1/2" thick in the "tang" or handle area, and about 1/4" thick in the sharp "business" end, with a gradual taper from one end to the other. If I had to guess I would say that some apprentice made a mistake and cut out the blank backwards, since it's a chopper and would make more sense to have the thick part of the spine on the cutting end. The "Aranyik" stamped in the side of the blade is also very sloppy, barely readable. On the plus side I got it for a good price and I don't think anything can ever break it.

Steve Tall: That sounds like a good idea, drilling four corner holes and using them as entry points for a saber saw. I'll have to experiment in an unobtrusive spot to see if the saber saw can make a dent in the 1/2" steel. If it's soft enough, this might work.

I'm open to any other ideas.
 
If you know someone with a good drill press, you could use a cobalt drill bit and drill a bunch of holes, but it would still take some time with something that thick. Assuming the handle portion of the blade has not been hardened, your best bet might be to find a machine shop, and have them use a vertical mill to take however much you want off the thickness of the handle (equal amounts on both sides), and then you could add handle scales of your choice.
 
moparsbob said:
If you know someone with a good drill press, you could use a cobalt drill bit and drill a bunch of holes, but it would still take some time with something that thick. Assuming the handle portion of the blade has not been hardened, your best bet might be to find a machine shop, and have them use a vertical mill to take however much you want off the thickness of the handle (equal amounts on both sides), and then you could add handle scales of your choice.
Click to expand...

That would be the best solution. I can make some calls to machine shops, but I suspect they wouldn't be interested in such a small job and might charge more than it's worth to me. I'll try doing it myself first.
 
If it's half inch thick a saber saw is gonna be an exercise in futility. Better buy about 50 blades.

I'm thinking plasma cutter. I've never used one but they have one in the city shop and cut stuff that thick with ease.

You could even skeletonize the handle end and make a catchy pattern or something, then para cord the outside and leave it hollow in the middle.
 
Dave,

That's a very neat blade I hadn't seen before. Reminds me of the same kind of raw utility that was found in the R1 stick knife.

Why not use a felt marker and mark off where you think the "handle" should start, then mark where you think the lightening holes should be, and what diameter, then send it to me? I'll drill the holes with a press to your specs and then take off the edges with a slight counterbore. I can almost guarantee you that the steel there away from the edge is dead soft.

Measure twice, mark off the handle area, mark the areas you want drilled, specify the diameter, and send it to me and I'll get a before and after weight for you. Will save a few ounces anyway. (?) Say $25 to cover shipping both ways from the Bay Area down to Central CA and I'm good. Might even be less if you don't send it priority or insure the heck out of it.

You can use a saber saw, but then the only way to clean up the cuts is to use a slack belt grinder; if you want to cut/trim it yourself I could clean that up for you as well if you want to go that route.

You actually might start by tracing an outline of the blade and drawing some holes on the template where you think the lightening should take place. Rather than marking up the blade from the get go, you can experiment with different diameters and spacings on the templates until you get the look you want.

Best,

Norm

P.S. You absolutely don't want to lose the "beak" at the end there. It not only looks cool but IMO is almost essential for hanging onto the thing, unless you're going to add scales to it...(?)
 
Last edited:
I would say ^ is your best bet, unless you can get access to a drill press. If the handle end is hardened, you can put the thing in a vise at the blade/hilt area juncture (as a heat sink) with the handle end up, and draw the temper with a torch-handle shouldn't be hardened anyway.
Be really, really careful with big bits and any kind of blade in the drill press, especially if you haven't done it before. Friend of mine got about 65 stitches from a blade that got a bit stuck in it and turned into a food processor until the bit broke.
 
Svashtar thats a kind offer! I have daily access to machine shop so if it dont work out with ya i might be able to help too. I doubt the handle is hardened but it would be a brutal job with hand tools even so.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the kind offers. I think I'll call some local machine shops first and see what they would be willing to do, and for how much.
 
Hey David, I've got one almost the exact same as that. They call it a farm grade model or something like that. Mine has the E-toh blade shape. Mine came with a paracord wrap on the handle. Been thinking about cutting it off and adding handle slabs. The tang is thick like yours though and I was also considering drilling some extra holes in it.

IMG_1840_zpsa279fc9e.jpg~original
 
i'd go with a series of drilled holes down the centre-line about 1/4-3/8 inch apart & counter-milled as noted above to chamfer the inner edge of the hole. holes on the centre line have the least effect on the strength. i'd leave at least 3/8" at the top & bottom of the holes. then chinese wrap it like the example just above. hopefully the handle area is softer that the cutting area. plenty of garages around with a drill press. heck, there's even a small shop near me in the boonies that does CAD controlled hi-pressure water jet cutting of steel. it'd be a mistake to initially make the hole or holes too big. you can always take out more later if dissatisfied. it's a tad more trouble to put some back.
 
I just got an E-toh (black pipe one) that has a similar problem. Sort of... Its not as thick as davids but has too much weight in the handle and middle area. I dont really want to mess with the pipe but it could definitely use some lightening in the middle. Since i cant cut material off the spine without making it look funky about the only thing I can do is holes. Maybe drill some holes in the handle too? Hmmm? The e-toh below it is really nicely balanced but is 50 cm shorter. Ideally i would like an e-toh about 75 cm but cant seem to find one. E-nep and Machette thrown in just cause they're cool!:D
ac9a9e4a21d1f6db6a74b4e2e3c8006e
 
boy ndoghouse,diggen the blades..really like the enep..but all..A-ok..is the e/ a micarta handled one from the Canadian guy or did you do it. maybe I missed it or forgot? also,Philll yours is cool too..
 
Thanks Bargs! The E-nep is actually from a North Carolina guy we all know. Part of a NAFTA agreement for another blade:D Im not sure where he got it? It is micarta and a very nice job at that! And I thought Pugs only did sheaths:thumbup: I can say it is a very well done E-nep sharp as all getout. The weight and balance on it is perfect. I plan to take it out for a walk today and see what it might do? Im thinking it would make a great knife on fishing trips. No problem cracking open an Alligator gar or chopping up a big redfish or black drum. ooooh great for cleaning sting rays too!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top