are all compounds createed equal?

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Sep 19, 2010
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i have heard so many people talking about finishing with grean compound and that leaves a mirror finish, but after using my green compound i always have a hazy leftover bit of scratches on the mirror finish. also i rarely hear of users here using black brown or white compound, only the green. so i guess im wondering is green the finest of those four? and are different brands of the same compound more effective than others? thank you for your time.
 
Sufficient surface preparation must be done, before the green compound can be fully effective. It's particle size is very small (0.5 micron, give or take), so if the scratches left in place BEFOREHAND are too wide/deep, it can't reduce them effectively. The black and white compounds (silicon carbide and aluminum oxide, respectively) can help, but their particle sizes are still pretty big (3 to 10 microns, maybe larger) by comparison to the chromium oxide (green). Diamond compounds can be used in between, they're available in 6/3/1/sub-micron sizes.

It's also likely, if the strop or other applicator for the compound is the slightest bit dirty/dusty, it'll leave significant scratches on it's own.
 
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I've found that if I don't use enough pressure or enough compound I will end up with a hazy finish. Adding more compound and applying pressure to generate some heat, and melt the compound, will usually result in a better finish.

HTH,
Dave
 
I've found that if I don't use enough pressure or enough compound I will end up with a hazy finish. Adding more compound and applying pressure to generate some heat, and melt the compound, will usually result in a better finish.

HTH,
Dave

Interesting.

No offense, but I find myself offering two pieces of advice regarding strops/compound/sharpening over and over again, and generally the return reports were that the advice helped solve the problem.

1. Use LESS pressure.
2. Use LESS compound.

Generally a hazy or cloudy finish is a result of poor prep PRIOR to finer compounds (0.5 micron) (see post #2 above).

Again no offense...just wanting to offer advice.
 
No offense taken. There is always more than one way to do something. When one considers the variables involved (blade material and hardness, strop material, strop finish, compound, etc) and the possible techniques, the more feedback offered the less experimenting the OP will have to do.

I've tried using a strop but time limitations and my inconsistency weren't producing the desired results. Then I tried a hard felt wheel on a bench grinder with white compound. While the felt wheel could put a mirror finish on any edge, it often resulted in a wire edge. I've since switched to paper wheels and am very pleased with the results. In particular, the slotted wheel and white compound is touching-up / finishing edges in a few passes to a shaving sharp mirror finish.

I've found that both the felt wheel and the paper wheel both work better if a bit more compound is used and slightly more pressure is applied than what I was initially using / applying. I was trying to be sparing with the compound and use a light touch as I'd read many times on BF. But not enough of either and the resulting finish / edge was not satisfactory. The lesson I've learned? Friction and compound for material removal is required.

Everything in moderation, of course. Less is more, until it isn't enough... :)

Regards,
Dave
 
Cool.

All my advice is based on NON-powered use of compounds. I will make no claims of having knowledge with powered tools in that regard....perhaps there in lies the difference (power vs. hand tools).

Either way...whatever gets the results you want;)
 
Paper wheels is not stropping. I personally haven't had any luck with green compound. However as soon as I switched to diamond spray I had my sharpest edges yet with no changes to the strop or my technique. Newer stainless that have lots of very hard carbides need a compound that is also really hard to efficiently cut the steel. Just my experience with compounds.
 
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