Are my Henckels crap? Or is it poor technique?

I

Icehawk

Joined
Aug 9, 2008
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For all these years I thought the Henckels knives I had and bought were great - now I'm thinking they really are crap.

Hard steel that won't take an edge on my Sharpmaker in any reasonable amount of time - either I need to bust out a flat stone (my skill with stones is not great anymore) or use this electric sharpener that I do not care for... Or am I missing something in my technique?

It just seems like the standard stones I have barely cut at all without tremendous pressure. Maybe I just need to invest in a more aggressive stone for the Sharpmaker?

Any recommendations?
 
I have some Henckels that are not top of the line and the only thing that I've found to get them sharp enough for my liking is to use the Sharpmaker to get them as sharp as I can, which isn't too sharp, then use a high quality butcher's steel from by Grandfather's shop.

I've found the same thing with the Sharpmaker, I'm just not happy with the blade on my Henckels once I'm finished with them on the Sharpmaker.
 
Before I gave it way, I used a Sharpmaker on mine without to much of a problem going from the course to fine. They are the Pro. S. models. I strop mine a lot and don't let them get too dull. Is it possible you are not at the right angle. The edges on mine are a tad on the obtuse side.
 
Improper technique. Sounds like you screwed up the edge bevel with the electric sharpener. You should be able to get them as sharp as any other knife.
 
Bill, I think you are right - can you suggest how I go about starting over? I don't mind putting some sweat equity back getting these to have a real edge. I wonder if this is the same issue I have on the cheap Taiwan folder I have - it won't take an edge either and feels like the Sharpmaker isn't removing any metal. I had no problems sharpening up my Concord OTF from its factory "edge".

Thanks guys!
 
Icehawk said:
Bill, I think you are right - can you suggest how I go about starting over? I don't mind putting some sweat equity back getting these to have a real edge. I wonder if this is the same issue I have on the cheap Taiwan folder I have - it won't take an edge either and feels like the Sharpmaker isn't removing any metal. I had no problems sharpening up my Concord OTF from its factory "edge".

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

I would be interested to know also since I have ran all my kitchen knives through an electric sharpener. Sounds like you and I are in the same boat.
 
I have a couple of Henkels (4 star, I think.)

They take a great edge on the Sharpmaker.

I'd guess that these fellas are right and that the edge angles on the knives do not match the angle of the Sharpmaker.

Mark the edge with a Sharpie, take a couple of swipes on the Sharpmaker, then look at the black. If the outer edge is still black, you aren't sharpening at the edge. That means the angles on the blade don't match those of the Sharpmaker.

Keep sharpening using the dark rods until you can mark the edge and have the black removed at the very edge. (it takes a while to do this.) Then you can work up to the white rods.
 
The easiest method is to re bevel the knives with a fine mill-bastard file to about 10 degrees, then use your jigs or stones.
Bill
 
Okay folks! Repeat after me, the first commandment of knifedom:
Thou shall not use an electric knife sharpener:D
 
second commandment. thou shalt not allow the vile demonic device into thine dwelling, nor thine garage, nor thy friends dwelling nor garage, lest thou perish and be doomed to the flaming pits for eternity. selah.

get outcher rocks, lay the blades flat, don't go below 400 grit no matter WHAT, move to 1000 grit ASAP and build a convex edge.

stay AWAY from the edge till you've removed the shoulder above it.
then go a little closer, a little closer, and as you approach the edge move up another grit. you should START working the edge at 1000 grit if your skills are good, otherwise start at 2000 and do no harm, it'll take longer but you need the practice if you're doing it that way.

make the entire blade profile support and justify that edge being precisely WHERE it is, and a perfect arc from heel to tip.. i work down, then back up polishing. after the edge is 'useable'.. polish it mirror smooth, (back up, about 4000 grit, then down, @ 6-8000) ..

then burnish the edge with a hard surgical arkansas stone, probably a 'finger' stone.. translucent or maybe black. (very small stone, hold the knife, move the rock, little circles and fine diagonal strokes along the edge, alternating sides)

burnishing adds longevity and integrity to a very fine edge, convexing the edge is maximal edge support. it don't get no better.

the knives aren't junk.. the electric sharpener is junk. were you drunk?
 
I rarely used anything but a steel to sharpen my Henckels.Perfect for that as it's fairly soft.Don't use an electric sharpener or even a sharpening 'system'.
 
I love my Henckels 5 star knives. They take a WICKED edge when worked with my 5k Blue Belgian coticule wetstones.
 
I've been using my midprice Henckels (chef and parer) for about 10 years - best that I could afford at the time and they've served me well.

I like the handle and blade shapes & the steel is reasonable for the price. I usually keep them shave sharp or close to with just a steel for the chef and 2000 grit wet & dry to convex the parer. Every now and then I consider replacing them with something better but it's not anything urgent. One of the kids broke the tip off the parer (never did find out which one or how) and I re-ground it to more of a droppoint using a benchstone and diamond and actually prefer the modified tip.

I think the trick to looking after the them is to never let them get hot. Mine are washed in warm water only - never the dishwasher. I use a $5 Woolies boner if I need to check whether or not the spuds are done
 
Quick fix? Bring them to a sharpener, have them set your edge to either 40 degrees inclusive or 30 degrees, whichever you prefer. From there, use the sharpmaker.
 
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