I have been using the Lansky diamond kit for about 5-6 years. I haven't used it much other than for touching up my edc, and re-profiling a couple knives. I have recently got back into wanting to sharpen some knives, trying different stuff just for fun and to learn more. I recently re-profiled a couple old knives I had lying around, and was shocked how long it took. It had been a few years since I re-profiled anything, and I really didn't remember it taking so long. I searched but could not find this answer anywhere, my question is, how long should it take to re-profile using the diamond hones starting with extra coarse? On my Leek with Sandvik steel, I spent about 45 minutes per side to re-profile from 25 degrees per side to 20 degrees per side. To me it seemed like the extra coarse hone was not cutting very fast, for being so coarse. Is this to be expected?
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Are my Lansky diamond hones working properly?
- Thread starter Brad9660
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I think diamond hones can clog pretty fast on some steels, and stainless steels seem to be worse about it. The effect is much more apparent on coarser diamond, as the aggressiveness really falls off quick. Keeping the hones as clean as possible, and maybe using them with some sort of lubrication, like water+dish detergent, can help to keep them from clogging so fast.
The other complication is, the Lansky hones are very small. Any re-bevelling jobs will take a while on them, simply because the abrasive surface area is so limited.
David
The other complication is, the Lansky hones are very small. Any re-bevelling jobs will take a while on them, simply because the abrasive surface area is so limited.
David
Yea, I have seen that they load up pretty quick, and I have been using Break Free CLP to clean them. A tip I found on a a post on this forum, it works well to clean a diamond hone if anyone else is reading this. I also know the hones are not to wide, but it just seems like I read about people saying there diamond hone make quick work of re-profiling. Mine have not been so quick. Thanks for the reply.
I may be missing something here. I know they make a lot of indrustrial chemicals (maybe a solvent/cleaner) but the BreakFree CLP I'm familiar with is a lubricant and leaves a protective coating (a thing that doesn't endear it to many applications) I would think that would be the last thing you'd want to put on a hone. Diamond hone makers usually recommend water or nothing. I am a fan of Lansky systems and being using them as long as they've been out. IMO you can't beat them at the price point. Having said that, I've never been impressed with the longevity of the surface of their diamond hones.
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The 'quick' reference is a relative thing. The diamond hones will still be faster than the standard hones on more wear-resistant steels (like S30V). But it can still take some time. The small size of the hones is the most limiting factor.
For cleaning diamond hones, many manufacturers recommend scrubbing with something like Comet/Ajax and water. If you clean after every session, dish detergent (Ivory, Dawn, etc.) with water works well. If there's really a lot of embedded swarf on the hones (long-neglected), Bar Keepers Friend & water works very well (oxalic acid in it dissolves the steel swarf). Be careful with this stuff; it works great, but don't leave it on the surface for more than 30-60 seconds, and use it with plenty of water. Heed the warnings in the instructions for it.
As mentioned, 'cleaners' that leave some sort of protective coating may not be the best thing for diamond hones. Clean & dry is the best way to keep them, between uses, and using water or dish detergent + water during use also works very well. In fact, that'll probably do more to keep them from getting too dirty/clogged in the first place. I don't always use my diamond hones with lubrication, but have noticed they always work better when I do.
David