Are my water stones defective??

Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
2
So this is my first post to BladeForums. I have browsed the sight many times to find answers, but i was unable to find a thread that outlined my problem. Thanks in advance for any help.

When i first got into knives i purchased a spyderco sharp maker to keep my knives in good working order. After a while i wanted to develop the skill of free hand sharpening. I liked the versatility that water stones provided, so that's the route i went. I purchased a Norton set that included 2 double sided synthetic stones with a 3rd flattening stone. The stones are 400 1000 4000 and 8000 grit. It seemed to be a fair price for what i was getting. I suppose i should say that i had really good luck with my sharpmaker system i was able to get my old Carbon 5 Master hunter to shave hair. Because of my quick grasp of the sharpmaker i assumed i would be able to hit the ground running with my new stones. I could not have been more wrong. I spent hours standing over those stones, and never once was i able to get a good edge. I used every source of info that i could to learn what i was doing wrong. After a fruitless effort i put the stones away and have not used them for about 6 months.

So jump to present day, i received a set of wood chisels for Christmas. After handling the chisels i thought hey these should be the easiest thing in the world to sharpen on a waterstone. How could i screw this up it has to work, my angle is already set i just need to hold them flat and slide it down the stone. After a 30 minute effort i realize that something has to be wrong. After using the water stones it actually dulled the chisel. I busted out my sharpmaker ( im sure some are familiar with the system) i layed the stones on the bottom of the plastic case and was able to use it in the same way i would have used the waterstones. Simply slide the chisel down the stones at its already established angle. After 3 minutes i was able to shave my arms.

Before using my waterstones i always soaked them for around 30 mins. I would also keep them lubricated with water during sharpening. I made sure they were flat by using a pencil to draw a grid then used my flattening stone until the grid was gone.
Is it possible that my stones are the issue? They honestly don't feel smooth when i get to the higher grits. Its almost like they have small ridges that run across the stone. i cannot see these ridges but i feel them when sharpening its like the blade wants to dig in at random spots along the stone.

Thanks again and Merry Christmas to everyone.
 
what stone did you start with?
The low grits Nortons are on the sift side and that could have been the issue.
 
You might have overlooked the sharpening forum, there are thousands of threads in there related to all things sharpening. Sounds like your technique needs to be reworked or the stones are too fine and are not removing enough material to be effective. In reality 220 grit and under should be used to remove material, anything around 400 and up is used when you are attempting to start a high polish.
 
Welcome to the forums!

I highly doubt you have defective stones. When hand sharpening on waterstones and having troubles with gouging the stone that immediately tells me your skill and technique with these stones needs some time to grow. Softer waterstones will often work best with edge trailing strokes until you become more comfortable with how the stone performs. Once comfortable with the stone it will be easy to obtain great sharpness and not make minor mistakes like gouging the stone.

Sharpening with waterstones is a different experience and takes some time to understand. Once you get past this learning hump you will value their speed and ability to produce sharp clean edges on a wide range of cutlery.
 
I have an 800 and a 4000 water stone that I purchased years ago for woodworking tools. The learning curve was steep and I generally use a guide for chisels and plane blades. I freehand carving knives and started using them to sharpen my EDC knives as well with superb results. Like them better than anything else I've used.

The key to water stones is the slurry. keep a puddle of water and grit floating on the stone and it will sharpen like crazy. It takes a while to get the slurry built up and not much will happen until it does.

The fine stones especially are suspect to the blade digging in if you're sharpening with a push stroke. One little muscle twitch and it's over.

Now that I've started making knives and have purchased a 2 x 72 belt grinder, I take all of my knives to "workable sharp" on a ceramic belt before hitting the waterstones. Sandpaper on a glass or granite surface would lead to the same results.
 
Welcome to the forums!

I highly doubt you have defective stones. When hand sharpening on waterstones and having troubles with gouging the stone that immediately tells me your skill and technique with these stones needs some time to grow. Softer waterstones will often work best with edge trailing strokes until you become more comfortable with how the stone performs. Once comfortable with the stone it will be easy to obtain great sharpness and not make minor mistakes like gouging the stone.

Sharpening with waterstones is a different experience and takes some time to understand. Once you get past this learning hump you will value their speed and ability to produce sharp clean edges on a wide range of cutlery.

+1
Jason gave me pretty much the same advice through reading his posts and watching his vids.
http://youtu.be/XgOXvtJDm5E
I can attest to this learning "hump". Once you are past it, and you will be with a bit of time and practice, it becomes the greatest time.
Good luck !
 
jdavis882 on YouTube has a very good (in my opinion) tutorial video of sorts on water stone sharpening. I found it to be personally rather useful when learning to sharpen with water stones.

YouTube video link
 
Ron Hock's book "The Perfect Edge" targets woodworking specifically, but covers every kind of sharpening including the various methods. I recommend it and it should help you out.
 
And if you want a cheap way to check whether it is your stones or your technique maybe try the wet/ dry sandpaper stuck to a spare tile or piece of glass trick:

After not having done any freehand sharpening since childhood I decided the other day that I needed to get my girlfriends Global kitchen knives sharp for Christmas but didn't want to go through the hassle of doing them with the Lansky - so I bought a couple of sheets of wet/ dry sandpaper in different grits and stuck then to a spare bathroom tile I had and then, after having watched a couple of Murray Carter videos on youtube, went at the knives on the sandpaper using mostly a scrubbing motion. I was very impressed with the results, and so was my girl!
 
The Nortons are fairly aggressive and somewhat soft. They dish rapidly if you don't move around on the surface, and work very well when used with a trailing pass to finish. The 8k does not have a lot of feedback and is not aggressive at all. You'll need to set the edge up well before moving to the 8k.

There is a learning curve.
 
Thanks everyone,
sorry i have not responded sooner. Being a postal worker this time of year doesn't allow me much time for anything. After reading through the replies i am sure that i just need to develop my skills. Its a relief that i did not invest in defective stones :) Thanks again for all the info. I will make another attempt tonight, hopefully i can reply and tell you all i was succesful!
 
The best advice I can give you is to slow down if your running it back and forth all fast and gouging the stone its likely that your angle increases/fluctuates too much , this causes you to gouge , and takes some time to cleanly apex the edge again.

You may wish to go even lower than 400 to start. The 140atoma/150 Nubatama combo works really well to help you get things flat again , and make short work of the diamond scratches.

If you have been gouging the stone odds are very good that the edge of the edge is overly convex , making it very dull and will require some time to get back to true.
 
Back
Top