are the wood handles treated

Yes.

But I don't know what with.

I refer to it as, the goop, nasty stuff, gunk, etc. I'd like to send the kamis some Briwax.
 
hardheart said:
^^^ topic title
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Short answer, "No." They are sanded to a point and then polished too high heaven on a buffing wheel with some sort of polishing compound.
If they're still using the same stuff it might be some form of jeweler's rouge judging from its color and texture.
There's often residue from the compound left in the grooves cut into the handles.
The best thing to do with a wood handle when you get one is wash it down good with Murphy's Oil Soap and a small scrub brush then dry it off and when it's good and dry start sanding with the paper of your choice.
When you have it sanded to suit yourself make sure all the residue has been cleaned out of the grooves and then apply the finish of your choosing.
Lots of folks use tung oil, others use both linseed oil and after the handle soaks up as much as it can finish it off with a few coats of Boiled linseed oil. Another finish that's popular with some is Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil.
Others use mineral oil or several coats of mineral oil and then a few coats of Ballistol.
Just depends on how you prefer it and how you want it too look.:thumbup: :D
 
Yvsa said:
Short answer, "No." They are sanded to a point and then polished too high heaven on a buffing wheel with some sort of polishing compound.
If they're still using the same stuff it might be some form of jeweler's rouge judging from its color and texture.
There's often residue from the compound left in the grooves cut into the handles. D
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That makes sense and would explain why it is so embedded in the wood. I dunno why I never thought of polishing compound. It likes to gum up sandpaper but it is no match for the plumbers mesh. :D
 
I've had my fun with the red rouge....:D.....best way to get it off is with mineral spirits. :thumbup:


My experience (both having messed with it...and having inquired about it)...is that the red compound is a polishing rouge that has something added to it to provide a sealing finish...it's a weak finish...but better than nothing.


There's also a symbolic significance to the color red being used. You might notice that once you take the red off...the color of the wood might be something totally different (brown, orange, tan, etc). They coat the handle completely with it...a bath of sorts...they want it red. ;)



...can't think of anything more to say...:D
 
Be aware that a lot of oil finishes (e.g., boiled linseed oil) have toxic and carcinogenic drying compounds in them, things like lead and cadmium. Give it some thought before soaking your wooden handles in them.
 
Return of the J.D. said:
Be aware that a lot of oil finishes (e.g., boiled linseed oil) have toxic and carcinogenic drying compounds in them, things like lead and cadmium. Give it some thought before soaking your wooden handles in them.
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Thats why I like mineral oil. Maybe not the best, but odorless, tasteless and safe. Its also fine for the metal, the wood or the horn.

And you can use it if you're stopped up.
 
That rouge they use hides grain as well as anything I've ever seen. I sanded every handle I ever got, and often there was real pretty wood hiding under all that mess.
 
Khalnath said:
How would removing this rouge differ on a horn handle?
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Do as Daniel says and rub it off with mineral spirits and a soft cloth. A toothpick is handy for getting it out of the grooves.:thumbup: :D
After getting the rouge off treat the horn with Hooflex (SP), Petroleum Jelly, Lanolin, mineral oil, or the preservative of your choice. Keeping horn treated helps prevent cracking.:cool:
 
Ad Astra said:
At least they don't use Japanese Urushi finish.

http://www.eurus.dti.ne.jp/~k-yazawa/urushi.html

It's made with something like poison ivy juice. Bad when sanded. Very.


Mikr
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I believe some aescetics in feudal times would undergo an ordeal where they literally mummified themselves in their last years, and drinking a tea with ingredients from the urushi tree was usually the last thing they did.

:barf:
 
I believe some aescetics in feudal times would undergo an ordeal where they literally mummified themselves in their last years, and drinking a tea with ingredients from the urushi tree was usually the last thing they did.
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Cannot recall where, but I've read about these too -- they set their bodies up in shrines soon before death. Supposed to protect the country around, or something benevolent like that.... Deliberate and prolonged course of dehydration through emetics, along with taking in preservative substances as mentioned.
 
About urushi:

Gotta put on my botanist hat for a sec.

Urushi, aka the lacquer tree, is the same genus as poison oak and poison ivy, Toxicodendron. ALL true lacquer, made from the sap of the lacquer tree (Toxicodendron vernicifluum) will have the same effect as poison ivy sap when wet. The nice thing about lacquer is that it is non-toxic once it dries, unless you try to sand it, or otherwise powder it.

So, the question goes, can you get lacquer from poison oak or poison ivy. The answer is yes. The California Indians made a really wonderful and permanent black die from poison oak. The problem with the american species (poison oak, poison ivy, poison sumac), is that the sap never stops being toxic, even after a century. That's one reason why the american lacquer industry never took off.
;)

Here endeth the lecture.

Thanks for the notes on the handle finish. Now I know how to take care of mine.

F
 
I used dental floss to get into the rings. Worked pretty good. The horn was also clearly happy to get the mineral oil bath.

I have to take this opportunity to give props to the traditional khuk handle shape. Totally secure even when slippery with oil.
 
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