Arkansas Stone Progression

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Dec 7, 2017
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I have been sharpening for a few years using a Wicked Edge, and a Work Sharp Ken Onion with Blade Grinder Attachment. Now I am interested in freehand sharpening kitchen knives, hunting knives, and pocketknives on Arkansas Stones and am wondering about proper progression. It seems proper to progress from soft, to hard, to black, but is it necessary/efficient? I see a lot of two-sided stones that are soft on one side and black on the other. To me that implies that progressing from soft to black, skipping hard, is efficient/appropriate. Correct? When I compare this jump to typical Japanese progressions it seems comparable, which would support the theory.

Thanks.
 
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For most knives, a complicated progression isn't absolutely necessary anyway. Beyond the first setting of the edge to establish good geometry, maintenance sharpening after that can be a one-stone job. And for the first setting of the geometry, no more than two stones is usually necessary to finish the job. A progression may only be necessary if the first and coarsest stone leaves the edge too rough or unrefined, in which case a secondary stone could be used for refinement. But with experience, even very coarse stones can be used with a light touch to create very aggressive and wickedly sharp working edges. And in Coarse to very fine jumps, like the soft Arkansas to the black, most of the real work will be done with the soft stone, and the black is used to clean up the edge of burrs. A popular strategy in sharpening involves using the very fine stone to create a tiny, barely-there microbevel, which narrows the apex width after the coarse stone and refines the apex. That leaves the edge with the narrowest-possible apex, while still retaining much of the cutting aggression afforded by the coarse stone's scratch pattern. Those are great slicing edges.

For most EDC uses, even the soft Arkansas by itself could leave a good working edge, assuming the steels being sharpened are not too wear-resistant for Arkansas stones. With Arkansas stones, that should be the main concern. Many modern steels with any significant amount of hard carbides will be difficult on natural stones. Ark stones work well for simple carbon steels like 1095, CV, and low-alloy stainless like 420HC (many mainstream kitchen knives use a stainless comparable to this). But anything more wear-resistant, like 440C and beyond, will begin to make Ark stones struggle.

Detailed progressions really only become important if one is seeking a very specific finish, a very high degree of refinement of the bevels themselves or extreme polish (mirror), such as is desired in Japanese cutlery used for expert-level food prep (sushi, etc.). But for most any other use, it's not that important and usually not necessary. For most knife users, it isn't necessary or productive to overthink the details about progressions, and instead, simplicity of upkeep is the main concern.
 
I have some experience with Arkansas stones. It may be nice to have more than a Soft Arkansas. But - as David said - a Soft Arkansas (a good one) leaves an edge sharp enough for most tasks.
When I sharpen knives on such stones (mostly 1.4116, 1.4034, 1.4110) I get a hair shaving edge with just the Soft stone. But it takes time, even when your blade is only slightly dull and needs little touch up.
I still like these stones. But for my needs a Soft Arkansas is too slow and too fine to set the bevel. So I would start with an India or diamond stone.
I wouldn't buy both Soft and Hard Arkansas again because I can't see a huge difference between those two stones. And I wouldn't buy a finer stone than a Hard Black Arkansas. The Surgical Black Arkansas is needless for me. Not to mention a Translucent Arkansas stone.
 
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Is there a difference between black and surgical black? I have the latter and it is *super* hard.
 
Is there a difference between black and surgical black? I have the latter and it is *super* hard.
There might be a difference based on those descriptions, but I'm not sure. Natural stones are variable anyway, because they're natural and not 'made' to any particular spec or constraint for grain size or hardness or density, etc.

And then the finishing of natural stones is also going to be variable, depending on whom is sourcing them, and cutting them and finishing them.

I have a very small 'surgical black' pocket stone, and it's also very hard. But it doesn't really cut steel very aggressively. Works better as a burnishing / polishing / deburring stone, depending on the steels being worked on it.

As mentioned in an earlier reply, I also tend to favor something like an India stone (Fine) for the same sorts of steels otherwise suitable to Arkansas stones. I usually use the Fine India to set edges on most of my EDC and kitchen knives in fact, all of them in simpler carbon steels and low-alloy stainless steel. The India stone, in aluminum oxide, has much more headroom in terms of how cleanly it can cut these steels and others that are somewhat more wear-resistant (440C, etc.).
 
Is there a difference between black and surgical black? I have the latter and it is *super* hard.

Maybe. Might depend which brand you buy. RH Preyda calls it a Surgical Black stone and this stone seems to be not as fine as a Translucent stone. Dan's Whetstone Company calls it a Black Arkansas. Dan's give it with a specific gravity of 2.50+. Same for the True Hard and Translucent stone. But the Black Arkansas is given a ultra fine, whereas True Hard and Translucent are rated as extra fine.
 
Depends on what your goals are. The hards do a micro bevel pretty well so it's an easy jump from a soft if it is broken in. Other than a micro bevel more stones will be an easier progression, especially for someone new to arks.
Even the softs are capable of pretty fine edges, so we are talking over kill here. Nothing wrong with that though, just saying...
 
I've started rediscovering sharpening, after many, many years away. Given that I'm an Arkansas dude, living about an hour from where Arkansas stones are mined, it really just seems wrong that I no longer have one. Especially since I had one just a few years ago, and it has gone AWOL. Anyway, I'm beginning to realize just how little I actually know about Arkansas stones. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, y'all.
 
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