arm hair

hardheart said:
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7439/mov00823.mp4
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7479/mov00824.mp4

Despite what's written on the blade, the edge is not from a file. It was, and was still shaving, but then I applied this edge with the side of a A36P grit 6" grinding wheel (by hand, wheel not mounted).

New guys, save your money on expensive high grit stones until you get good performance at coarse grit.
Click to expand...

You know, I don't think I've ever tried to get a shaving edge with a grit that coarse. I may have to try it, just for amusement.
 
I agree, hardheart! I routinely sharpen on a duo-sharp course / x-course and can shave hair right off the stone. I touch up with fine and done! I use the strop to maintain the edge only. Works like a charm. Thanks for showing us video backing this up!
 
I started into knives with a Victorinox Tinker in high school, and I sharpened it every week on a really old hardware store combo oilstone. That was when I first got my edges to shave, though not spectacularly. I had no concept of other sharpening tools (my dad used stones like that, and files, too bad for the hogs he would castrate with his stockman) and was surprised at how sharp my new Spydercos and BMs were. I got a Lansky, and stuck to the 20 degree setting with one stone, the 280 medium. I didn't like having to change rods and stones, or to move the blade in the holder, because I didn't want to risk angle changes. I got the 600 grit fine stone loaded with titanium trying to sharpen a 970ST, and never used it on another knife. So, I'd get a 280 grit arm hair lawnmower, and would call it good. I was posting on BF, and could not for the life of me understand why people were going to 1000 grit or more. I was also very suspect of their claimed feats of sharpness.

Now I have diamond plates, ceramics, synthetic waterstones, natural water and 'oil' stones, leather strops, paper wheels, buffing wheels, various compounds, loupes, pocket microscopes, etc.

My aoto and guangxi stones are soaking right now, and have a splash of water on the surface of my nakayama kiita. Going to try to repair the edge on a vintage straight razor and get it to 30-40K grit finish, then shave test.
 
I think its a point a lot of people miss when trying to fix or re-profile a edge. At your coarse grits you should be getting a sharp edge, if not then you have done something wrong. The sharper you can get it at a coarse level the sharp it will be in the end, and you usually get their faster if you get a good edge with your coarse grits.

I never really tried to get a sharp and clean edge form a coarse stone until I got my diamond stones, because of how clean they cut even the xc DMT can give you a clean shaving edge. I never leave it like that but it is amazing how sharp it really is.
 
Coarse grits can give you a sharp edge, no question.

I use the higher grits to polish and refine the edge.

One of the Royal (British) Army's specifications for issue "Kukhris" was that " it be capable of being sharpened with a file."

The one I was fortunate enough to obtain would shave arm hair right out of thr wrapper.:p
 
peppercorn said:
knifenut,
what do you finish with?
Click to expand...

Usually 1 micron diamond spray on scrubbed bull leather.

Finishing stones before strop are either a lapped spyderco UF ceramic or a XXfine DMT 8000mesh benchstone.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Usually 1 micron diamond spray on scrubbed bull leather.

Finishing stones before strop are either a lapped spyderco UF ceramic or a XXfine DMT 8000mesh benchstone.
Click to expand...

..Thank.

Do you free hand ''V'' grind,convex or something altogether different?
 
Thanks knifenut,

Also, what do you feel the advantages of a v grind are over a convex grind or visa versa?
 
Pretty great stuff, hardheart!

Actually more envious that you can use an aoto. Mine doesn't like me.
 
I'm working it without a slurry right now, and not using pressure, since it's a straight razor. Builds its own slurry in about 15-20 passes anyway.
 
Great job. I need to try the 36 grit shaving edge. I always make sure even off of my DMT XX Coarse (the coarsest stone I use) my coarse edges shave before moving on to the next grits, as setting that foundation of a sharp coarse edge leads to a sharper polished edge IMO.

Mike
 
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