as if we ever "need" a reason

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hey everyone, just got some great news tonight. My wife came home from school to tell me she had a meeting with her councillors and she is all lined up to graduate culinary school with 3 degrees and 2 certificates at the end of this semester! So for graduation I would love to make her a custom knife. I am thinking some form of damascus 5/32" 8 to 9 inch chefs knife. A highly figured handle is in order I think.
So where/from whom can I get some nice damascus (im not to sure of the different pattering names yet) in roughly 2"x14"x5/32" surface ground?

I know I have yet to complete a knife of my own but I have fabricated many things from many different materials and am a model builder. Being a model builder has taught me to have an eye for detail and when you think you are done means you are only halfway there. I am confidant in my abilities and know that no matter how it comes out she will love it.

I know it isn't really relevant to this forum but I was on here when she told me and I am so proud I just have to tell someone!


Xander-
 
When one of my grandsons finished his cooking school course as I did for one of my nephews, I did complete a chefs knife for him. These were big like 9" or 10" ATS-34 blades. It could be a great project and gift from knowing how pleased my family members were long afterwards. I do not recommend carbon steel. In our part of North America carbon steel blades are no long legal to use in any commerial business serving food. As well I don't think she would like having customers seeing a dark black looking blade. Just my thoughts on a chef knife for a real chef. Frank
 
Frank, very good point! I did not think of the carbon steel in a commercial setting. Well maybe I will go with D2 or something similar. Only reason I would make her an 8 or 9 inch knife is for how small my wife is over all. She hasn't even reached 5 feet tall! Sometimes I catch myself just watching and admiring her in the kitchen (rare for her actually) and I notice that when using her current 10" chefs knife which has a 5" handle, she actually tends to "choke up" a little too far on the handle and on to the blade in a marginal grip position. She has such small hands I think a shorter blade length will balance with a slightly smaller handle while maintaining all the usefulness of the long blade.


Xander-
 
Why not go with a true stainless?
D2 might not be the best choice, you might want a steel that takes an extra fine grain.
Mirror pollish is nice for a kitchenknife IMHO
If you like damascus, stainless damascus bolsters can be an option.

What handle material do you plan on using?
Pink G10, if she is such a kind of lady (like my GF), beautifull burl wood?
I like wavy olive wood in a kitchen, myself.

You might end up making a complete set... a parring knife for her birthday, a herb and spice chopper for valentine :)
 
Some comments on professional cutlery:

Don't go for looks....go for function. Make it ergonomic and make it tough.
Don't go for thick....go for thin....and then make it thinner than that. When you think the blade is too thin, it is getting close.
Forget damascus and fancy woods. Use stainless steel and composite materials. There are stainless steels that will take a screaming edge, like ZDP-189 or Cowry X. But, don't pass up the other great culinary stainless steels like CPM 154.Handles need to be grippy and washable. Canvas Micarta and G-10 are good choices....wood is not and burl is worse.
Edge geometry is everything...blade finish is almost nothing......Make the blade a full flat grind and leave it a satin finish....then spend the time getting the edge right.

If your skills are still a bit undeveloped, you might want to take a look at the great Stainless san-mai culinary blades from Jantz and TKS ( and others). They come with bolsters, are ready to add the handle, and are really good blades for the job. Core choice is VG-10 or ZDP-189.There are many styles to choose from. You could make a whole set over time.

Scroll down to the bottom where the VG-10 and ZDP-189 blades are.http://www.jantzsupply.com/cartease...egories.primary&string=Cutlery&string2=Blades
 
Xander,
I am just about to launch a line of kitchen knives myself. Stacy is right about thin, I would recommend 3/32" rather than 5/32". I can make carbon steel damascus in that thichness and in the dimensions you requested, or I can make it in stainless damascus with a stainless core. I can also make a fully finished blade for you to handle if you wish. You might want to think seriously about this option, I know you want to give your wife the best and a quality kitchen knife is a really tough place to start. The edge geometry is very critcal to the knifes performance.
Thanks,
Del

www.ealyknives.com
 
Frank, I have to ask, when did that law come out and what is it based on? My 2 favorite knives in the kitchen I worked in were old German carbon blades. I have been looking all over and cant find anything on it.
 
Also, unless you REALLY want to surprise her, it might be a good idea to talk with her and ask her - "If you had 1 perfect chef's knife, what would it be like" - you may not be able to make THE perfect knife, but you'd probably end up closer than by guessing.
 
First, some of the best chefs knives out there are made with carbon steel, there is nothing wrong with using them in the kitchen. just check places like korin.com and you'll see them.

Second, you said she "chokes up". Is she really choking up? Or is she holding the knife in a pinch grip? Someone who is not familiar with really working in a kitchen may not realize that a "choked up" pinch grip is actually the correct way to hold the knife.

third, chefs knives are not not easiest knives to grind, the have to be VERY precise. And chefs are very persnickety about the knives they use. A chefs knife is not one that is strapped to your side most of the time and used when needed, it is in hand 5 to 8 hours a day, so even small things can make it very uncomfortable.
 
yep you really need to know the style of cooking she will be doing

5/32 would be more like a German meat and tators kind of blade able to hack what ever you find in the kitchen to bits(and wedge on root vegetables )

being a petite woman she may well rather have a light thin vegetable knife to add to the knives she already has and then she can see what she likes and what other knives she woudl like to add

im a big fan of cpm154 and if you want a nice classy knife a 600grit hand ssanded finish is great (mirror finish are often all scratched up on the first trip to the sink for washing) with nice stablized burl handle (you can even get in in afew colors if you like )
 
Some comments on professional cutlery:

Handles need to be grippy and washable. Canvas Micarta and G-10 are good choices....wood is not and burl is worse.

Thank you for your imput, Stacy, but how about stabilized wood (and stabilized burl wood)
I figured they would be at a par with composite handles
 
third, chefs knives are not not easiest knives to grind, the have to be VERY precise. And chefs are very persnickety about the knives they use. A chefs knife is not one that is strapped to your side most of the time and used when needed, it is in hand 5 to 8 hours a day, so even small things can make it very uncomfortable.

good post
things liek rounded bolster and spine near the handle and a balance point jsut infront of the handle on most styles (in pinch grip the knife is more liek an extension of you hand )
 
I usually read only, on this forum, but as a professional chef myself (with obbviously little english skills, LOL), I would recommend to:
- go thin. The only really chunky knives in a pro kitchen are choppers. We don't use them much anymore.
- If I had the choice between a sharp or a durable edge, I'll take the sharp anyday. Professional kitchens usually have a knifesharpener coming in once a week, the rest is done with your sharpening steel.
-Make it as unique as you can. Knives are tools, and tools "disapear", if you know what I mean. Personalize it with an engraving or something.
-No manufacturer offers sheeths. I believe that it makes a LOT of sense to have something to protect your blade. Some kitchens have a designated drawer for knives, and that drawer turns into a clusterf&%k really quick. You wouldn't believe how some old cooks treat their blades. Again, it is just a tool.
-Your idea with the smaller handle is good, just to avoid that every apprentice in the kitchen will "mistake" that knife for his.
-don't go for anything too complicated. As a married man I can tell you that: if she likes it (and I believe she will), you'll have to make more, different shapes, and what not. You know... If Momma ain't happy, nobody's happy.
Regards
J-L
 
Well let me try to get through all these questions...

Why not go with a true stainless?
D2 might not be the best choice...If you like damascus, stainless damascus bolsters can be an option.

What handle material do you plan on using?
Pink G10, if she is such a kind of lady (like my GF), beautifull burl wood?
I like wavy olive wood in a kitchen, myself.

I really like the looks of damascus, but am open to suggestion. She isn't the super girly type, but I do know what she likes.

Some comments on professional cutlery:

Don't go for looks....go for function. Make it ergonomic and make it tough.
Don't go for thick....go for thin....and then make it thinner than that. When you think the blade is too thin, it is getting close.
Forget damascus and fancy woods. Use stainless steel and composite materials. There are stainless steels that will take a screaming edge, like ZDP-189 or Cowry X. But, don't pass up the other great culinary stainless steels like CPM 154.Handles need to be grippy and washable. Canvas Micarta and G-10 are good choices....wood is not and burl is worse.
Edge geometry is everything...blade finish is almost nothing......Make the blade a full flat grind and leave it a satin finish....then spend the time getting the edge right.

If your skills are still a bit undeveloped...Scroll down to the bottom where the VG-10 and ZDP-189 blades are.http://www.jantzsupply.com/cartease...egories.primary&string=Cutlery&string2=Blades

Stacy, your comments never go unheard. My thinking for going 5/32" or maybe 1/8" is I would do a distal taper to reduce some of the tip weight. Also I like the rigidity of a slightly thicker spine. This knife would be more of a presentation gift, than an every day work horse. She has some very nice knives already for that. I like those choices offered by Jantz, something to think about.

Xander,
I am just about to launch a line of kitchen knives myself. Stacy is right about thin, I would recommend 3/32" rather than 5/32". I can make carbon steel damascus in that thichness and in the dimensions you requested, or I can make it in stainless damascus with a stainless core. I can also make a fully finished blade for you to handle if you wish. You might want to think seriously about this option, I know you want to give your wife the best and a quality kitchen knife is a really tough place to start. The edge geometry is very critcal to the knifes performance.
Thanks,
Del

www.ealyknives.com

Please send me a PM or an eMail, I would like to know more

Also, unless you REALLY want to surprise her, it might be a good idea to talk with her and ask her - "If you had 1 perfect chef's knife, what would it be like" - you may not be able to make THE perfect knife, but you'd probably end up closer than by guessing.

Well it isn't a total guess, I actually have spent more time in a professional kitchen than she has (not including her school) and I do ALL the cooking at home. I maintain all her knives for her because she is bad about doing it herself. I know she loves the size and balance of her 8" santuko, but utilizes the shape from the 10" chefs knife more. So when I combine those two I come up with a 8"-9" chefs knife with a 4"-4.5" handle, balanced just before the bolster.

... you said she "chokes up". Is she really choking up? Or is she holding the knife in a pinch grip? Someone who is not familiar with really working in a kitchen may not realize that a "choked up" pinch grip is actually the correct way to hold the knife.

third, chefs knives are not not easiest knives to grind...it is in hand 5 to 8 hours a day, so even small things can make it very uncomfortable.

Yes she "chokes up" a little too far past a pinch grip. She really has to slow down her knife handling with the big knife to maintain control. She doesn't think anything of it, being her size she just tends to deal with things not designed for someone her size, but I don't want it to develop into a bad habbit and cause an accident in the future.

I did some thinking about this a few weeks ago, I took her to our local high end chefs supply store and got her to handle several of the different brands and styles. I asked her some specific questions to get an idea of what she did or did not like about each one. I can try to incorporate what she liked into one knife.

yep you really need to know the style of cooking she will be doing...

im a big fan of cpm154 and if you want a nice classy knife a 600grit hand sanded finish is great (mirror finish are often all scratched up on the first trip to the sink for washing) with nice stablized burl handle (you can even get in in afew colors if you like )

She really likes baking more than anything and is trying to get into a commercial bakery, but with her family having 62 years in the returant business I know that she will never get away from gormet cooking completely.

As I have said above I am not 100% sure of steel choice yet. I do agree about the finish though, I remind her every time I grab my 6" chefs knife with all the diagonal scratches up the side from when she tried to sharpen by hand the first time.

I usually read only, on this forum, but as a professional chef myself (with obbviously little english skills, LOL), I would recommend to:
- go thin. The only really chunky knives in a pro kitchen are choppers. We don't use them much anymore.
- If I had the choice between a sharp or a durable edge, I'll take the sharp anyday. Professional kitchens usually have a knifesharpener coming in once a week, the rest is done with your sharpening steel.
-Make it as unique as you can. Knives are tools, and tools "disapear", if you know what I mean. Personalize it with an engraving or something.
-No manufacturer offers sheeths. I believe that it makes a LOT of sense to have something to protect your blade. Some kitchens have a designated drawer for knives, and that drawer turns into a clusterf&%k really quick. You wouldn't believe how some old cooks treat their blades. Again, it is just a tool.
-Your idea with the smaller handle is good, just to avoid that every apprentice in the kitchen will "mistake" that knife for his.
-don't go for anything too complicated. As a married man I can tell you that: if she likes it (and I believe she will), you'll have to make more, different shapes, and what not. You know... If Momma ain't happy, nobody's happy.Regards
J-L

I do appreciate your real world professional input. I think I can get away with 1/8" with a full distal taper and flat grind on a roughly 2" high profile to keep the inclusive angle of the primary bevels low enough while maintaining some stiffness in the backbone.

I will definetly make it "her knife" in one form or another.

I kind of like the idea of a sheath for it but I wonder about using leather.
Currently she uses these
images.cfm
when storing her knives or when putting them away in her case.


Oh how true...


Hopefully I have made some of my thinkings more clear and would really appreciate any input you guys have.


Xander-
 
i have made a few kydex sheaths
but if i was to do that aagini would make them completly 2 piece so that could be taken apart for cleaning
also know that it will not be dishwasher safe so hand wash with warm water is about all the hotter you would want to go
 
just my opinion. 1/8" is much much to thick even with the distal taper. It's just going to make is to thick and heavy. It will not make a good knife.
 
Poster
i am thinking something really nice like Stainless Damascus from someone who know's what they are doing for the blade,maybe the bolster's in a different pattern and a very feminine handle material probably dyed and professionally stabilized burl,add a nice blade protector and you will have a big success..
i think a pro chef should proudly have a Great Knife to use with pride..it is a shame most choose not to beacuse a knife is Just a knife!! it is something she will use and enjoy using for a long time so make the nicest knife you can for her .
 
yep you really need to know the style of cooking she will be doing

5/32 would be more like a German meat and tators kind of blade able to hack what ever you find in the kitchen to bits(and wedge on root vegetables )

being a petite woman she may well rather have a light thin vegetable knife to add to the knives she already has and then she can see what she likes and what other knives she woudl like to add

im a big fan of cpm154 and if you want a nice classy knife a 600grit hand ssanded finish is great (mirror finish are often all scratched up on the first trip to the sink for washing) with nice stablized burl handle (you can even get in in afew colors if you like )

Butch is the man with kitchen cutlery. I own one of his nakiris in 154cm and cedar handle. What he says should really be taken into consideration :D
 
1/8 is still at least 25% too thick. The distal taper is a given anyway. Take it from Lloyd, thin is what you want. The rigidity of the spine won't be an issue at even 1/16". I have made a lot starting with .060 stock, and they cut fantastic.

Stabilized wood is still porous to some degree. If it is for the home kitchen, then it would work, but if it is for commercial use, it would not be acceptable.

Some food laws require stainless steel knives and impervious handles on knives used in commerce. I agree that there are many great carbon knives, and that carbon can outcut stainless in some cases. However, the health laws go with the worst case scenario, and don't allow anything that can harbor bacteria.

Many folks think that stabilized wood is sealed completely.....not so. The test for stabilized or not ( often you can't tell by the look) is to sand the end grain of a block smooth and wipe the dust off, then submerse it in water for an hour. Take it out and wipe it off, then set it on the end grain ,sitting on a paper towel. The water will all run out in an hour, leaving the end looking dry again. If the wood was not stabilized, most of the water would stay in the block.
 
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