ASHBM-LE user, sharpening and thoughts

Eytan (Ethan) K

Eytan (Ethan) K

Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Messages
459
Hello,

This one of my Busse knives that I use,
Every job that require chopping or heavy duty slicing- that is the one,
Great blade, used it a lot and sharpened it with no problem.

since it is a user it's exposed to damage familiar to us (as busse users) : deforming and dulling; exposed to loss of steel due to sharpening.

Last time I wasn't careful enough, as I copped to pieces an old sofa we threw away, so it can fit to the building garbage can, I hurt at a
hidden nail :(.

After examining the blade I got to 2 conclusions:
1. I need to fix the blade, at the points where the blade deformed (3).
2. The blade need sharpening.

Usually fixing chipping\deforming include removal of steel, and I want to avoid that.

My philosophy in sharpening is "more functionality and less aesthetics"- I needed to fix the blade with minimum loss of steel- so belt sender, or "removing" the deforming spots is out of the question.
This knife is a serious chopper not a gentle slicer, and 2 spots of small deformation will not hurt it's functionality.

So, I passed the blade on Japanese Diamond plate #1000, and slowly, gently, in pull motions, after I used #3000, and finished with buffering paper wheel.

The result: The blade is hair shaving with 3 noticeable spots of deforming - but the original geometry is kept, at minimum loss of steel.
and the pics (all are after the sharpening):

















created by picasa2html.com
 
Last edited:
Very nice, good work.

Truth be told, I find that the chopping performance of my own Bussekin users is improved when I improve the geometry. By removing steel on the HF 1x30 belt grinder. Geometry cuts. At which point I accept that I own my own warranty, and rely on the toughness of INFI and a little common sense to protect the edges.


 
This should be a sticky, for quick reference when noob posters show up crying about how they ruined a knife. :thumbup:

Nice synopsis, Eytan--agree 100% with your assessment.
 
More functionality is ALWAYS better (to me anyhow) than how a tool LOOKS. My ASHBM could be pink with purple polka dots, as long as it does what its meant to do.

Tell me a bit about the paper wheels you used.

Do they take off much steel? Or do they just buff/ hone the edge? Thank you.
 
"Razor sharp" paper wheels system, you get 1 wheel wit SC 120 grit, and one for buffering AO white compound; I used the buffering wheel.
I use the abrasive wheel only for cheap knives- the wheel generate heat and it is very aggressive;
on the other hand the buffering is SUPER great and gives great finish - if needed.

you can read about it here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ing-wheels-when-your-time-is-important-to-you

Eytan
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
More functionality is ALWAYS better (to me anyhow) than how a tool LOOKS. My ASHBM could be pink with purple polka dots, as long as it does what its meant to do.

Tell me a bit about the paper wheels you used.

Do they take off much steel? Or do they just buff/ hone the edge? Thank you.
Click to expand...

Its all about the LOOKS and functionality... Call me shallow lol! Ive accepted and embraced it
 
Will York said:
This should be a sticky, for quick reference when noob posters show up crying about how they ruined a knife. :thumbup:

Nice synopsis, Eytan--agree 100% with your assessment.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I thought when I first came across this thread Will.
 
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