Asking advice for specific heat treatment problem

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May 27, 2013
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I come seeking some specific advice regarding a heat treatment problem. End of last year I forged a ladder pattern damascus billet and forged some hunting knives from said billet. I finished two knives from that piece of damascus so far, all rockwell tested, nothing out of the ordinary (steel combination is 80Crv2+15n20).

Now over the holidays I forged 3 additional blades from that same damascus billet and got around to hardening them yesterday. Only that two of those blades didn't harden at all. Here's my protocol which I have used for all the blades I forged from that billet:
-Normalize at 850C°/1562F (10min), let the blade come down to room temp
-Normalize at 830C°/1526F (10min), let the blade come down to room temp
-Normalize at 815C°/1499F (10min), let the blade come down to room temp
-Anneal at 760C°/1400F (30min, cool down at 300C°/h)

for the above listed steps I put each blade in a stainless foil packet to prevent decarb. Also note that the above listed steps were performed quite shortly after I forged the blades (within a day or so), the hardening process is what I did yesterday:

-Austenitize at 820C°/1508F (holding time 15min at 4,5mm blade thickness. Oiltemp was 50C°/122F)
-quench in AAA Hardening-Oil (I use a european brand of AAA hardening oil that has worked very well for me so far). Also note that my quench tank is directly next to my Evenheat, so there is as little time as possible between the kiln and the quench. My quench tank is also big enough to accomodate bigger blades, hell I can harden swords in there if I need to, so there shouldn't be a problem there.
-Temper at 195C°/383F (2x 2h)

Edit: Also, I always let my kiln run at my desired austenitizing temp for at least 45min to equalize the kiln as much as possible regarding temperature before putting any blade into the kiln.

for the hardening process I coated the blades with a thin coat of ScaleX to keep decarb to a minimum. I also did not have all of the blades in the kiln at the same time, I always focus on one blade and then I do the next one. This might be inefficient, but I seldomly harden a large amount of blades at once and I feel I have better control over the correct soak times at the correct temperature if I do one blade at a time.

So far, so boring. Usually this process gives me a blade that tests at about 61hrc and I use that combination of steels (or 80CrV2 as a monosteel) quite often...mostly actually, so I am not new to hardening them. Now here is my problem: one of the three aforementioned blades tested in that range, the other two tested between 40-50 hrc. My Rockwell hardness tester shouldn't be the problem since it correcly tests the gauged steel testing-plate provided from the manufacturer at the specified 62hrc. I have also not noticed anything out of the ordinary with my Evenheat kiln (I have an Evenheat Rampmaster 22.5Lb, which has served me really well so far).
I am also pretty confident I did not ruin my steel during forging....neither during the inital couple forge welding steps to get my pattern as well as forging the blades. As already mentioned, I forged and hardened two blades from that very billet that worked out perfectly before. I only ran into that specific problem with these three blades.
Any advice would be greatly apprechiated.

Again, that process has yielded good and consistend results for me and I really need to find out what I screwed up here or what I missed because I can't for the life of me figure it out.

Edit: Also, before testing the blades I ground off all the little bit of decarb I had and finished the flat surfaces near the ricasso I was testing to a 500 grit finish.
 
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Did you take the blades out of the foil packet?
Thanks for the reply. I wasn't detailed enough on describing the process, sorry. I only had the blades in the foil packet during the Normalizing and Annealing process. During hardening the blades were not in a foil packet but were instead coated with a thin coat of Thermodur-ScaleX which is specifically designed to be used for that process.
 
I don't see any issues with your protocol as shown.

Did you test several FLAT areas - tang, ricasso, etc. Any non-parallel surface of the test piece will result in an inaccurate result.

Suggestion:
Run test coupons of 1084 and 15N20 bar stock that you ground clean and then hardened the same way as the blades. Clan them up as you did the baldes and test for hardness. If they are good, the issues was probably not the steel or HT but something else. If not good check the oven temps and work backwards from there.
 
Yes, ground the blades on my surface grinder and tested near the ricasso on the tang of the knives (all 3 are hidden tang knives). Though I am going to check again whether I missed anything there (part not being flat etc.). I also went ahead and did some light chopping on some antler bone with the blades that failed to harden and you could clearly see the edge deforming a lot more than it would if there would still be some decarb on the blade. So both the rockwell test aswell as me "testing" the blade seems to indicate that two of three knives did not harden properly.

If I end up having to re-harden them, can I just go straight into austenitizing or do I need to normalize again? I never had that kind of issue before so I don't actually know what the best protocoll for re-hardening is for a blade that went through the whole cycle but failed to harden properly.
 
I usually normalize once, one sub critical soak, then the DET anneal in foil and then Austentize 80CRV2 (ATP641 to cut down on the decarb) per Larrins recipe. I usually don't have any issues getting 64-66 HRC as long as my oil doesn't get too hot (parks 50). I have have the Parks 50 get too warm on 80CRV2 and Blue #2 and not harden properly!
 
Larrin did some testing on coatings and most of them didn’t do well. I don’t know anything about ScaleX but you have a fairly thick blade with low hardness so I would start by eliminating the coating. Mid 40’s hardness usually means that you have pearlite which is caused by too slow of a quench. It’s very possible that the coating is slowing down the quench.

Hoss
 
I do not use thick coatings. Heck, most of the time I use no coating.
When needed, I use a thin coat of Turco#2, or a wash coat of satanite. I haven't tried my jar of NuClayer No-Scale 2000 yet.

I agree with Hoss. Since you had a problem, ditch all the things that could cause it: the coating, the unknown structures, oil temp, etc.
Follow his advice and end with a DET and you are back to zero with the blade. Then go forward with the simplest HT.
 
First of all thanks again for the advice, it is greatly appreciated. I am going to try it again without the ScaleX and report back. One last thing regarding this: should I run the entire protocol again (including normalizing etc) or should I go straight into hardening?
 
I would try it from it’s current condition.

Make sure you’re getting enough soak time. Try 15 minutes after the temperature rebounds.

Hoss
 
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