ASTK new, happy and help pls

Jens Schuetz

Jens Schuetz

Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
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Just received my ASTK from 1 week ago. I think too many reindeers in the air slowed down the USPS planes:) If it's not the season triangular boxes only take a day or two. I liked the anticipation.
The knife has the right size and weight for me and will be my new workhorse.
The horn looks great and isn't slippery at all.
Aunty also send me a sweet greeting card with a cool picture of two Nepali kids on it. And on top of it there was a baby Kukri. My 4 year old already has a Biltong so this one goes to our two year old. Not that I'll let him hold it just yet.
Thank you Aunty Yangdu, you are the best ! ! !

I'm 110% happy and I don't mind fixing things. Actually I like fixing stuff. So here is my current challenge.
One of the horn slabs is bending upwards towards the bolster/guard. At that spot there is 1mm space between the horn and the full tang. I can look all the way through. My plan is to cover the gap from one side with tape and then fill the gap with g-flex epoxy.
My question is should I press the horn down while the epoxy dries? Could that crack the horn since it wants to bend up and the epoxy will hold it down? Basically should I use epoxy as a filler or as a glue?
After epoxying could soaking in mineral oil effect the bond in a bad way? Don't want to use oil before the epoxy since it wouldn't bond we'll.
Also I can't really roughen the surfaces since the gap is only 1mm. Should I at least flush the gap with alcohol to remove any preexisting oil or grease or can alc harm the horn?
Thank you!

Pictures later together with my "old" longer and heavier wooden handled ASTK(also from Lachhu)
 
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Just my personal opinion here so take it accordingly. I would not try to pull the horn back down, I don't think it would happen anyhow, epoxy just isn't strong enough to do that. I'd just fill the gap. Even though you can't rough it up effectively the epoxy should still create a mechanical lock, it's not just gonna slide out unless the gap is perfectly parallel all the way thru.

To me strength isn't the issue, just cosmetics so just about anything that you can match semi closely color wise would work. Something even a bit flexible would be good. Either silver to match the tang and blend or dark to match the horn.
 
I would worry more about alcohol interacting with any exposed laha inside the gap. Unless you have a way to test that, I wouldn't try it.

Generally i would fill a gap with a slow-setting thick epoxy and peel off the tape when the epoxy is set enough to stay in place, but before it completely sets and grabs hold of the tape. If the horn is sticking up too much you can sand or file it down later, after the epoxy is fully cured. You can also sand off the tape if the epoxy does grab hold of it, but less work if you peel off the tape in time.

I wouldn't use oil beforehand, for the reason you state. Even afterward, it might be better to rub on some Hooflex (the paste kind, rather than liquid, is less messy), rather than mineral oil. However, once the epoxy is cured, either way should be ok.
 
Hey Jens,
I have and would still just fill it.IMO the horn has been on a long and UP and DOWN temperature extreme journey. Although if you really want soak it in hot water until the horn gets a little flexy, then clamp it and let it dry and you might only have a .10mm space instead of a 1mm. YMMV

Love the Biltons as well.

Seasons Greatings,
Mark
 
Hello Jens-I fill gaps with slow set JB weld epoxy. I would not try to clamp or press the horn into place, but rather force as much epoxy into the gap as possible and allow to set then carefully sand and if necessary, fill again until flush. JB weld is virtually impervious to oils, etc.
 
Awesome guys. Thank you for your help. I am tempted to soak it in warm water until it's flexible but am worried that some might stay in there and cause rust later on.
So probably will just fill it and add some black ink to the epoxy.
Wouldn't even file it since excess width in the front doesn't impact the Kukris function at all.
Removing the tape before the epoxy is fully hardened will save me some time. Thank you!

I noticed the new ASTKs front pin isn't as much in front as on the wooden handle. That might be the reason it could warp up. Still better than a crack in my opinion.
Here are a few pics of my 2 ASTK and the gap.
Also notice the difference in the tang. Interestingly the smaller ASTK tang starts much larger and then tapers down more.






 
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Man... Thats a beast! I'd glue it and hose clamp it and if it dont work then id fill it. Mainly because you cant do the reverse order. Just my opinion tho. Eventually the stress will be relieved as the oils penetrates deep into the horn.
 
That gap is on a much longer area than I thought. Being the thin part of the horn it just might pull back in. Epoxy and a clamp might do it or even epoxy, clamp and put in another pin. Might hold.

I'm not on board with the soaking it in the water idea, seems like it would take a long time for that horn to get flexible enough.
 
Agreed! The steel would rust before anything else would happen. Id leave the clamps on for a week or so if you can stand it while everything sets up and relaxes. Only problem with that is it would be hard to look at your baby in recovery that long:grumpy:
Bawanna said:
That gap is on a much longer area than I thought. Being the thin part of the horn it just might pull back in. Epoxy and a clamp might do it or even epoxy, clamp and put in another pin. Might hold.

I'm not on board with the soaking it in the water idea, seems like it would take a long time for that horn to get flexible enough.
Click to expand...
 
I agree with Bawanna-if you're comfortable putting another pin in it there's room, and if you peen it (gently) it'll hold it down, especially with the epoxy. The epoxy syringes with the mixing tube/nozzle are excellent for getting it into cracks and small spaces.
Congrats, that's a very graceful ASTK and the horn is lovely.
 
Thanks everybody.
If I go the additional pin way it will be my first pin ever :eek:
I know I will use my drill press to drill the hole but that's about it.

Too many questions and no clue where to start :o

What kind of pin? Aluminum? The ASTKs pins look silver and are surrounded by a layer of gold colored metal, which looks complicated

Do I drill the hole a fraction smaller and hammer the pin through?

Do I make the hole wider and have the pin a bit longer than the hole so I can hammer the ends of the pin to mushroom out and hold the handle down?

Thank you for any help.
:)
 
You definitely do not want to make the hole smaller and hammer the pin through. That will split it every time. A snug fit but not even hammered. Should be able to push it in with little effort.

I would peen one end, kind of mushroom it, push it in and get the mushroomed end on a vise or anvil etc, so after you cut the other end just a 1/16th or so long depending on material, you can hammer/mushroom the other end while putting all pressure on the pin itself, not on the handle.

I'd use brass or aluminum myself. Peen it good and then file it and sand it smooth. As you drill through the handle material and hit the steel, the drill will sometimes want to wander. You might have to drill one side, then use a center punch to keep the bit on course. Will horn it might drill just fine too, just have to kind of watch for it.

I'd hose clamp or tape or something to make sure the handle it pulled down. Don't rely on the pin itself to pull the handle down snug. It will sometime work but can sometimes be tricky too.

You'll never be able to say this is your first pin again.
 
One of the tricky parts is clamping the knife in position so the tang is perfectly level. Otherwise you'll be drilling at an angle. Even if it's a little bit off, the exit and entry holes won't be opposite each other.

The ASTK pins are in two pieces. The outer layer is essentially a hollow brass pin; the inner core is a solid aluminum pin. You probably want to combine those in advance, then drill the hole to match the outer diameter. Everything else is as Bawanna says.

Maybe press some epoxy into the gap beforehand -- the slow drying kind so any excess gets squeezed out when the slab gets pressed against the tang (assuming that the slab moves).
 
Definitely do the epoxy in the gap and I'd put it on the pin too. I'd probably epoxy an clamp or wrap until it's good and try, then pin it before you unwrap or unclamp.
I put a piece of wood on the drill press table and arrange so the blade is flat. Sometimes you need to use a shim or door wedge, whatever you can find to get it flat and parallel, they I get something the right thickness under the handle so it's not floating and drill the hole.

Another trick is to use modeling clay or even hard foam rubber. Little harder to establish flat and level but once you find it, you can hold it to drill the hole.
 
Start out with a smaller drill than your pin that way when you drill through with the correct drill size you will already have a guide hole in the tang. Have something clamped to the exit side so you dont break or splinter the horn on the exit wound. You may have that covered already with your clamping setup?
Jens: If you decide to use brass and dont have pins laying around the house you can get all kinds of toilet bowl hardware like flush handle rods made in brass. They are are only a few bucks. I heat them up with a propane torch and anneal them first but may not even need to do that. You can then match drill size to pin size.
 
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I am glad the ASTK arrived safe,
Happy New Year!
 
I am glad the ASTK arrived safe,
Happy New Year!
 
Thank you for your message Aunty. Happy New Year to you too!!! The ASTK is perfect for me in weight and length.

Thanks again everybody for the encouragement and tips. Saw the brass flush rods in Home Despot! :)

What I will do now:
1st inject epoxy and clamp it down a little bit (not all the way) until it dries within 4 days. Instead of a hose clamp I will use a rubber band ratchet as it will be less scratchy
2nd soak in mineral oil for a week while still clamped. In the hope to relieve any tensions in the horn and prevent it from trying to bend up more and avoid separation from the epoxy.
3rd drill press a hole and insert a pin (covered in some epoxy)

I still have questions regarding the pin. :o Should I try to match the pin to the original ones which are aluminum (or steel?) with a brass jacket? Could that be too complicated? Where could I get a brass jacket? If I just use one metal I think then it has to be a a silver colored one. Full brass would jump out too much from the design I think.

Thanks again everybody.
 
Jens:

A good hardware store will carry both solid and hollow brass tubes of various diameters. With luck, you should be able to find a hollow brass tube to match the ones on your ASTK, and an aluminum (or soft steel) solid tube that fits inside the brass tube. Aluminum is what the kamis use and it would be easier to work with than even the softest steel.
 
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