daizee
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2009
- Messages
- 11,065
Hi All,
I have an Atlas mini-forge, which I love. It has been great for heat-treating modest sized knives in 1084. But I'm edging into the 7-8" range for kitchen cutlery and outdoor knives. I'd like to be able to heat treat 1084 pieces in the little forge instead of waiting for the periodic opportunities to use my friend's kiln (which I do for all other steel types).
What are the largest blades you're able to realistically heat-treat in this little one-burner forge? Length vs. mass? I've done a couple 7" stick tang pieces, and while the edges are hard all the way, the spine near the tip is softer, which definitely means I'm pushing the limits. These were fairly massy, so maybe thinner FFG blades would be more reasonable.
Are there any good strategies for modifying for longer pieces or techniques for heating long pieces without burning them to a crisp?
Obviously I'm looking at 2-burner forges too...
I have an Atlas mini-forge, which I love. It has been great for heat-treating modest sized knives in 1084. But I'm edging into the 7-8" range for kitchen cutlery and outdoor knives. I'd like to be able to heat treat 1084 pieces in the little forge instead of waiting for the periodic opportunities to use my friend's kiln (which I do for all other steel types).
What are the largest blades you're able to realistically heat-treat in this little one-burner forge? Length vs. mass? I've done a couple 7" stick tang pieces, and while the edges are hard all the way, the spine near the tip is softer, which definitely means I'm pushing the limits. These were fairly massy, so maybe thinner FFG blades would be more reasonable.
Are there any good strategies for modifying for longer pieces or techniques for heating long pieces without burning them to a crisp?
Obviously I'm looking at 2-burner forges too...
