Atlas Mini Forge??

[jll346]

I just bit the bullett and purchased one of the little forges. Has anyone taken temp readings with stock burner? Just curious as far as heat treating goes in this unit? Thanks

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I would contact Zaph, who is the builder of them. He will probably be chiming in soon, anyway.

As far as HT in a mini forge:
HT is all about evenness and regulation. The larger the forge and the more refractory in it, the more even the heat and the easier it is to hold to a certain point. While any method of heating that will reach the desired temperature will work for HT, a small forge with a concentrated heat source will be trickier than a larger forge. An oven is obviously the best way to go, but adds another expensive item to the never ending list of knifemaking tools and toys.

The trick for HT in a small chamber is to keep the blade moving and test regularly with a magnet to determine when you are close to the HT temp. Using simple steels, like 1084, will also help with better results. 1095, )-1, and any higher alloy steel are not the ones for a small chamber HT.

 

[jll346]

Thank you Stacy.

 

[MKP]

I am watching this thread with interest. I bought a prototype Atlas from Zaph. It has 2 ports versus the normal 1 port in the production model. I was thinking that I could use the 2nd port for my thermocouple.

@Apelt Sensei: In Wally Hayes DVD, Wally used a very primitive can forge to heat treat O-1. The DVD was meant for rank beginner with minimal equipment. Why do you think he recommend O-1 instead of simpler steel?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I will repeat a comment made thousands of times, by thousands of different people-

Just because someone who sells books, makes videos, or gives lectures did/said something doesn't mean it is:
A) right
B) a good idea
C) the best idea

I think anyone who does a little research on O-1 and its HT will see why a small and poorly controlled forge would not be B or C.

Many folks who are champion knife throwers can throw a claw-hammer and make it stick...that doesn't mean anyone should learn to throw by starting with a hammer.

Most likely O-1 was what Wally was using at the time, so he used it for the demo. Without a proper soak at the proper temperature ( both very hard to get in a mini-forge) the HT may not have been 100%....maybe not even 80%.




And, please, just Stacy ( sensei ni). My fingers get burned,too.

 

[MKP]

Many thanks, Stacy. I was not being argumentative. I was genuinely curious. Anyway, I will stick to 1084 as you recommended.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I understood your question, and took no offense. It is indeed confusing when different people make contrasting statements.

You will have much better luck with 1084 in a mini forge.

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Sorry I didn't post sooner. I responded to your e-mail but didn't know there was a thread here. It's at least 1700°, as that is what a friends IR thermometer maxes out at. The couple people that had issues with it weren't giving it enough time to soak. I know your torch is one of the more recent ones, which puts out almost twice the BTU as earlier models. You shouldn't have any problems with it and the forge is the latest design which should give a more even heat. I had to bend a piece of 1" steel tubing with 1/4" walls and it heated it up nicely and got 6" of the tube bright orange.

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

If you do need more heat, Wayne Suhrbier has a burner that will fit in it.

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Welding temps achieved with the forge. 16 layers of Starrett 44 7/8" band saw blade reduced to 4. It could be better, but it wasn't a complete failure.