First question, with a set of shaptons and coarsest being 220 what can I use to lap these with.. atoma 140 I know but is there anything cheaper? Low grit sandpaper taped to a granite block? Next question I have is anyone with atoma 140 or a shapton 120 what do u follow this stone with... would a shapton 500 be too big of a jump to fully remove these scratches without going too crazy with it? If so what is the coarsest stone I could get to follow up with the shapton 500 that would be a good progression? Also since I'm talking ab lapping I have never had waterstones or lapped anything.. is it best to lap the shapton a every sharpen real quick or do u wait after a few since they dish very slow?
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Atoma 140, shapton 120 progression and lapping
- Thread starter Gradyw
- Start date
60-80 grit Silicone carbide powder on a cheap granite tile is what I lap my Nubatama 150 with. Like $8 on the big auction site.
I lap all my stones flat before I sharpen on them, especially the 150. It is is real PITA if you let it dish on you, assuming the same for most low grit waterstones. Best of luck.
I lap all my stones flat before I sharpen on them, especially the 150. It is is real PITA if you let it dish on you, assuming the same for most low grit waterstones. Best of luck.
- Joined
- May 4, 2007
- Messages
- 194
Go to Lowes/Home Depot and buy a 12x12 piece of granite tile for around $3.00. Bring it home, look at how nice, flat, and shiny your piece of granite is, then flip it over. Now, look at how you have a beautiful perfectly flat surface that has been milled in a way that leaves very small swirl patterns. Splash some water with a drop or two of dish detergent in it on the stone. Place your sharpening stone on it and proceed to lap your stone.
I own the complete set of Shapton glass stones, and I use this to lap them all right before a sharpening or immediately after one depending on my mood. Doesn't take more than 3 minutes on any one stone to get them perfectly flat and smooth. I generally lap them in reverse order from my sharpening routine... 8000, 6000, 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 220. I've never used a diamond plate on any of them. Surprisingly after 4 or 5 lappings of all of these stones, the raised ridges on the back of the tile are not completely ground away.
And yes, you can go from the Atoma 140 to the Shapton 500 very easily. When attempting a mirrored bevel, the stone I find myself wanting is one between the 500 and 1000. It seems no matter how much care I take with the remaining stones, there are still some scratches left over from that 500.
I own the complete set of Shapton glass stones, and I use this to lap them all right before a sharpening or immediately after one depending on my mood. Doesn't take more than 3 minutes on any one stone to get them perfectly flat and smooth. I generally lap them in reverse order from my sharpening routine... 8000, 6000, 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 220. I've never used a diamond plate on any of them. Surprisingly after 4 or 5 lappings of all of these stones, the raised ridges on the back of the tile are not completely ground away.
And yes, you can go from the Atoma 140 to the Shapton 500 very easily. When attempting a mirrored bevel, the stone I find myself wanting is one between the 500 and 1000. It seems no matter how much care I take with the remaining stones, there are still some scratches left over from that 500.
I bought the set (used) on Bladeforums. Someone else assembled the components. The part # of the Norton flattening stone is 69936687444.
Oh man I need to find the for sale forumn I'd go crazy... that's a great idea with the tile I'll have to try that for sure.. just ordered my atoma 140 going to be a week or two before I purchase the shaptons.. since u get a fifteen percent discount when u buy three I'll probably add the 220 with the 500 and 2k.. don't know if that's best for now but I guess I'll figure it out and just continue to end on my spyderco ultra fine
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2014
- Messages
- 14
Piece of glass from Home Depot. $1.89
Silicone carbide powder $7ish.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Silicone carbide powder $7ish.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,162
The Atoma 140 or DMT XXC should be your only lapping plate choices IMO. You have purchased stones that are all about flatness so don't cheap out on literally the most important part of the kit.
As per your other question,
This evening I sharpened a ZT 0550 in S35VN steel, I used my DMT XXC to set the bevel then jumped to the SG500 before finishing on the SG2000. Knowing this question comes up a lot with this kit I decided to time myself and see how long it would take to remove the 120 diamond scratches with the SG500 (these scratches are tougher to remove than those from the Atoma btw). In all, for both sides of the bevel it took me 3 minutes working at a relaxed pace.
As per your other question,
This evening I sharpened a ZT 0550 in S35VN steel, I used my DMT XXC to set the bevel then jumped to the SG500 before finishing on the SG2000. Knowing this question comes up a lot with this kit I decided to time myself and see how long it would take to remove the 120 diamond scratches with the SG500 (these scratches are tougher to remove than those from the Atoma btw). In all, for both sides of the bevel it took me 3 minutes working at a relaxed pace.
Yea I did Jason.. I feel like that 220 might've been a waste but with the discount for three it only cost 25 more dollars so I took it.i think practicing on some coarser stones will also help me out since they cut fast and u can see what your doing more easily
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,162
It was a good purchase, I use my SG220 often.
It saves the lapping plate because truthfully, you want to sharpen as little as possible on the lapping plate for concerns of flatness and wear.
The only down side to the coarse Glass stones is that you can't really lap them with the diamond plate because it tends to smooth out the stone and not make it cut very well. I've used some of my very coarse and loosely bonded waterstones to flatten and texture them and while it seems to work I have a feeling the recommended SiC powder would work better. I've also used one of those diamond dressing tools for bench grinders, not really ideal for flattening but it helps when th the surface texture.
It saves the lapping plate because truthfully, you want to sharpen as little as possible on the lapping plate for concerns of flatness and wear.
The only down side to the coarse Glass stones is that you can't really lap them with the diamond plate because it tends to smooth out the stone and not make it cut very well. I've used some of my very coarse and loosely bonded waterstones to flatten and texture them and while it seems to work I have a feeling the recommended SiC powder would work better. I've also used one of those diamond dressing tools for bench grinders, not really ideal for flattening but it helps when th the surface texture.