ATP 641 Anti Scale Solution

W

Wapiti

Joined
Sep 25, 1999
Messages
491
I am getting ready to order some anti-scale solution and most of what I have read has pointed me toward ATP 641.

But as I was researching the subject I ran across the application brochure from Advanced Technical Products (manufacturer of ATP 641) and I was reading the table and wanted to check with folks here before I make my purchase.
Link:
www.advancedtechnicalprod.com/pdf/atp.pdf

I mainly work with O1, 1095 and 15n20ish steels. I have an Evenheat oven, and have been “getting by without”, and am done getting by. I considered a DIY solution, but would like to try the commercial solutions, since the get such good reviews. I quench in Canola, right now, but hope to pick up some Parks or similar in the future.

The ATP table lists ATP 641 as applicable for Stainless and Carbon steels (so I figure that would cover 1095 and 15N20) but lists ATP 304 for Tool Steels. So should I get both, or go with ATP 641 and use it for O1?

I would like to, budgetwise, just get one solution.
I know I have read of folks using ATP 641 with O1, but just wanted to confirm/check with those that have experience here. Will 641 work just fine for O1 or should I consider the 304?

And is Brownells the preferred source? I don’t need very much, at this stage?

Thanks,
Brome
 
I find it great with 01. Not so great protecting above 1600°. It does not want to cling to polished metal, but if you warm the steel it helps. I apply it after a 1250° stress relief with 01, and then it covers easily. I think because any residue on the steel has been cooked off. I also double coat the edge areas. If in doubt of full coverage, double coat the entire blade. For the number of blades one jar will treat, it is a bargain.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience, LRB.
You bring up another question I had, about doing the normalizing stress relief.
So you don't get any scale during that? I was concerned about that and thought I might have to coat the blade prior to that, then clean it after and recoat prior to the heat treat run.
Sounds like I don't have to.

Brome
 
I do stock removal, so normalizing is not necessary, but in whatever you are doing a lot of the stuff flakes off on cool down, so you may have to re-coat a few times.
 
I also only do stock removal, at this point.
One maker a while back suggested to me that it would not hurt to do a stress relief (he called it normalizing) before heat treating just as a failsafe against stresses created during grinding. He felt this stress relief heat was a good idea even with stock removal; maybe it is overkill.
 
A separate one hour 1200° to 1250° stress relief, then air cool is all that is necessary for stock removal in PG 01. As long as the blade has not been over heated. The main advantage of this that I found was reduction of warp in quenching. There is a great difference between normalizing and a simple stress relief. According to Mete', the condition of PG 01 is as good as it gets when you buy it. If you forge it, yes, it would need normalizing before hardening to put the grain back as it should be. Test pieces I have broken show a super fine grain structure that I don't believe could be improved on by normalizing. It is possible to over do grain size reduction to the degree that the steel will not harden as it should.
 
I just started using this stuff. works great. For a super even coat heat up the blade and spray the stuff on.the water will evaporate on contact.
 
Thanks for the clarification on normalizing vs stress relief heating; I guess I just mixed the terms up.

I placed an order with ATP this morning for the 641; looking forward to using it (and hope to try some clay coating using as the base, too.)

Thanks,
Brome
 
I'm in the same boat as you are Wapiti (O1, Evenheat, Stock Removal, canola). I thoroughly clean with alcohol and use a heat gun before applying and it seems to stick fairly well. Pops off in the quench, sometimes like a perfect sleeve. I took LRB's advice about a year ago and the ATP641 works great. Thanks again LRB, your advice has been extremely helpful.
 
lessismore said:
I'm in the same boat as you are Wapiti (O1, Evenheat, Stock Removal, canola). I thoroughly clean with alcohol and use a heat gun before applying and it seems to stick fairly well. Pops off in the quench, sometimes like a perfect sleeve. I took LRB's advice about a year ago and the ATP641 works great. Thanks again LRB, your advice has been extremely helpful.
Click to expand...

I'm glad to be of some help.
 
I am having a problem finding a supplier in Australia for this anti scale product. I have contacted the USA supplier and the shipping cost is $60 USD and the product is only $13 USD. This seems a bit excessive. I cannot find any alternative product here in Australia. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Just ordered some up! I noticed that the de-carb was significantly more in my heat treat oven then my two brick forge which makes sense. Can't wait to give it a try.
 
I haven't tried it but I have friends who swear that the 2000 degree spray on header paint works well.
 
Just curious how you tested that the decarb was more in your heat treat oven versus the forge. I know that using Coal for church and increased Carbon content by a slight amount but decreasing it by a significant amount I have never heard of that . I would just like to know how you tested it and what your impression of a significant amount is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top