- Joined
- Apr 26, 2000
- Messages
- 94
To pin or not to pin,that is the question.When attaching bolsters to a blade is it best to pin them on or just solder them,or both?
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attaching bolsters
- Thread starter Stan Wilson
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2000
- Messages
- 5,548
REBOS,in my experience anyway,i have found that pinning is the better way.Soldering a piece the size of a bolster,compared to a thinner guard makes it much harder to neutralize the fluxing acids and they can eventually leach out,=ugly scene.I use tapered pin reamers,available fron MSC,or other machine shop supply cos.,to taper the pin holes.After peening&expanding the pins in tapered holes,if done properly,they wont come undone.
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MJH
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MJH
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
IMHO, Peen them.
After a lot of trial and error and a lot of questions on here, I have a method that works without fail.
To me, the pins should show NO TRACE of their existence, and NEVER come off.
I use 3/32" or 1/8" pin depending on the size of the knife.
Let's say 1/8"
I drill the holes with a #32 drill bit, and then ream them with a 1/8" reamer. I drill three holes in a triangular pattern (thanks Jerry).
After I have all the holes drilled and reamed, I adjust my drill press down to the slowest speed and with a small, triangle Jeweler's file, I taper ream the holes (thanks Alan).
For the pins, I cut them so they stick out about 3/32" out of each side of the bolsters.
I round the ends of the pins with a fine belt, then buff them lightly.
Then I clean the whole shebang with paint thinner.
Now put it all together. You should have bolsters that fit tightly against your blade with very snug pins, reamed outter holes for pin expansion, and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
Next I start off with a 24 oz. polished ball-pein hammer and start working my way around the pin, gently snugging them up more.
Finally I move to a 3 lb. Hammer and hammer the sh** out of the pins.
This takes a while, but it works. You will NOT SEE MY PINS.
Just my $0.02
Nick
After a lot of trial and error and a lot of questions on here, I have a method that works without fail.
To me, the pins should show NO TRACE of their existence, and NEVER come off.
I use 3/32" or 1/8" pin depending on the size of the knife.
Let's say 1/8"
I drill the holes with a #32 drill bit, and then ream them with a 1/8" reamer. I drill three holes in a triangular pattern (thanks Jerry).
After I have all the holes drilled and reamed, I adjust my drill press down to the slowest speed and with a small, triangle Jeweler's file, I taper ream the holes (thanks Alan).
For the pins, I cut them so they stick out about 3/32" out of each side of the bolsters.
I round the ends of the pins with a fine belt, then buff them lightly.
Then I clean the whole shebang with paint thinner.
Now put it all together. You should have bolsters that fit tightly against your blade with very snug pins, reamed outter holes for pin expansion, and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
Next I start off with a 24 oz. polished ball-pein hammer and start working my way around the pin, gently snugging them up more.
Finally I move to a 3 lb. Hammer and hammer the sh** out of the pins.
This takes a while, but it works. You will NOT SEE MY PINS.
Just my $0.02
Nick
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 5,855
To solder bolsters on you need to apply a small amount of flux to both surfaces, heat them till the flux sizzles a bit, then brush away any excess flux. Then heat the parts till they'll melt the solder, and tin both surfaces. Once they're tinned, let em cool till you can position them then simply heat them till the solder melts. You can adjust the position a little before the solder hardens. Then you can drill the holes and pin them.
MJH, where do you get the tapered pins and are they available in 416 stainless as well as brass?
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Take care!! Michael
Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
MJH, where do you get the tapered pins and are they available in 416 stainless as well as brass?
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Take care!! Michael
Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
- Joined
- Aug 1, 1999
- Messages
- 3,036
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NickWheeler:
IMHO, Peen them.
Finally I move to a 3 lb. Hammer and hammer the sh** out of the pins.
Nick</font>
I rely most on this step in Nick's procedure, except I use a 4# hammer and hammer the holy sh** out of them.
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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2000
- Messages
- 5,548
L6,its the reamer thats tapered,not the pins.Running this type of reamer into a straight hole tapers the hole,after straight pins are inserted and you beat the s**t out of them,as outlined in another reply,under this topic,it expands the pins,making for a very durable installation.
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MJH
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MJH
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2000
- Messages
- 94
Thanks for the quick replies,I was leaning towards soldering them for this reason,The bolsters are 99.999 percent silver,and the closest pin material I've found is sterling silver(92.5 percent silver).Would the pins show?
- Joined
- Oct 4, 1998
- Messages
- 427
Rebos you can get .999 silver rod...
its just called fine silver rod, you can get it through Rio Grande 1-800-443-6766
Or just about any jewlery supply catalog can get it for ya... just make sure ya get fine silver.. the only big difference you will see in color is one when the metal oxidizes... you will see it on silver anyways due to the fact that the pin is hammered and work hardened it will oxidize at a slower rate than the bolster unless it is work hardened also...
You could always silver solder them to a silver sheet liner and then just use the bolts or pins from your handle material to hold the whole thing on....
Alan...
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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
its just called fine silver rod, you can get it through Rio Grande 1-800-443-6766
Or just about any jewlery supply catalog can get it for ya... just make sure ya get fine silver.. the only big difference you will see in color is one when the metal oxidizes... you will see it on silver anyways due to the fact that the pin is hammered and work hardened it will oxidize at a slower rate than the bolster unless it is work hardened also...
You could always silver solder them to a silver sheet liner and then just use the bolts or pins from your handle material to hold the whole thing on....
Alan...
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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?