Attaching tang extensions

W

Wapiti

Joined
Sep 25, 1999
Messages
483
I have a question/quandary concerning when, or maybe how, to to attach my tang extensions. On my stick-tang knives I plan to attach mild steel 5/16" diameter round stock extensions onto the tangs of my blades. I can't do this until after I have heat- treated them and silver soldered on the guard because the extensions are thicker than the blade stock. A knifemaker I greatly respect told me I should silver braze the extensions on, but the problem is that I am concerned that if I heat the tang up high enough to braze I will cause the guard solder to melt and I may ruin my heat treatment. How do I get around this or is it not a problem.
Would it help if I wrapped the blade and guard in a wet rag while I braze on the extension? I do this sometimes when I solder on the guard to protect the heat treatment of the blade.
Any guidence would be much appreciated.
Also, Is there a big difference between using silver or brass/bronze brazing rod in this application? The only reason I ask is that brass is more in my budget right now (and I already have some).
Thanks again for your help,
Brome
 
You could buy heat sink material to absorb the heat.

You could slide the guard on the tang and braze the extension, then soler the guard.

You could flatten the 5/16".



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Sola Fide
 
Had the same problem. I fit the guard and slid it on the tang. I then braised on the extension rod. If you use a torch oxy act you can do the job pretty quick without ruining the temper.
Take Care
TJ
 
I bought one of those little wire feed welders at Walmart. It uses stainless wire, so you can use it to weld a piece of all thread to the tang of even a stainless blade. Works great for me!

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Hey, I have the same one L6 has and he's right, it's great! Just quench it real quick and you won't have to worry about the heat treat. Solder the gaurd on last while holding the blade in a cup of water. It's pretty tricky unless you have 3 hands, but I've managed it several times when necessary.
 
you could use two solders wih different flow temps thats what jewelers do to avoid that problem. just use hard solder for the guard and soft for the tang. you shouldnt need more than about a 50 - 100 degree difference to make it work right

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I'm a Schizophrenic and so am I
 
Broome and all,
I had somewhat the same problem when doing a bunch of stage use swords. I mention the use because actors treat equipment bad, really bad!
I had been putting on the bolts, with the heads removed, on the tang by sloting the bolts about 1/8", pinning and silverbrazing. I found that I could grind the bolts on the tang to the same thickness of the tang and still retain the strength that I needed.
By thinning the bolts, allthread, or whatever, you will leave little half moon openings in the end if I used a nut on the end cap. I got around that by using cap nuts or threading the end cap with a blind thread. I've since started using the long nuts, whatever their called, and brazing them to the end cap. Easier and cheaper.
If I haven't explained it so you can understan please don't hesitate to send me a note and I'll try harder.
Helpfully, Lynn
 
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