Attaching the guard to the blade?

Nuke_Spook

Nuke_Spook

Joined
Oct 23, 2003
Messages
582
How are guards normally attached to blades? Glue? Epoxy? Silver Solder? If Silver solder will a regular electrical soldering iron work or do you need something that produces more heat? Sorry to sound so clueless, but this is an area in which I have no experience so I probably don't even know the right questions to ask.

Thanks,
 
You'll need a propane torch. If you are not soldering stainless steel,them regular lead electronics solder will work fine. If any part is stainless, you will need low temperature (400 degree) silver solder. Stay Clean flux is wonderful stuff-use it. Make sure all parts to be soldered are cleaned to bright metal.
 
I've attached my brass guards to O1 blades with silver solder and a small torch, as Bill mentioned. I like silver solder rather than regular 63-37 Sn-Pb electronics type since the silver solder is stronger and harder...almost like brazing. And yes, you will need a good flux. Avoid the rosin based fluxes and go with the acid based ( containing Tin Chloride or Zinc Chloride) since these work better at high temp and are much more active in preventing oxide formation and helping making a good joint.

The method I've used is to flux each piece, then 'pre-tin' it by applying a thin coat of solder, fitting the pieces together, then re-heating the assembly to get the solder to re-flow, thus joining the guard and blade.

Edited to add:
Unless your parts are too massive and need more heat, a small torch like this will work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42099
 
Low temp silver solder is only slightly stronger than lead solder. Real silver solder is much stronger, but it requires enough heat that it will ruin blade temper.
 
So use low temp silver solder since the solder is stronger and harder. Use an acid based flux ( containing Tin Chloride or Zinc Chloride). Instead of a soldering iron use a small propane torch and tin both parts.

Does that pretty much cover it?
 
Practice?

Absolutely? I will definitely practice on some scrap metal, nails etc. before I try anything of value. I have soldered elctrical components but this does not seem to be the same thing.

Thanks for all input,
 
Nuke_Spook said:
So use low temp silver solder since the solder is stronger and harder. Use an acid based flux ( containing Tin Chloride or Zinc Chloride). Instead of a soldering iron use a small propane torch and tin both parts.

Does that pretty much cover it?
Click to expand...

Yep, that does it. But as Bill said:
1. you can use electrical solder (60-40 or 63-37 Tin-Lead) in place of the silver solder without appreciable loss of strength. And...
2. Practice.

:)
 
Is solder strong enough ? I always thought it was only used to seal the seam between the blade and the guard.
 
These threads are priceless. I wish I could contribute, but right now, I can only learn.
 
You can also use JB Weld. Almost no chance of goofing it up. Just make sure the guard/tang/shoulder clearances are nice and tight; you should have to tap the guard on and have it be snug. The JB will seal it up and hold quite well. Clean all the JB off the blade with a popsicle stick or something and a rag with a bit of acetone on it before it sets. NOTE: JB is not dishwasher-safe from what I hear, and if you're filling large gaps with it, it will leave a less-than-attractive grey line in the joint.
 
James_Terrio said:
You can also use JB Weld. Almost no chance of goofing it up. Just make sure the guard/tang/shoulder clearances are nice and tight; you should have to tap the guard on and have it be snug. The JB will seal it up and hold quite well. Clean all the JB off the blade with a popsicle stick or something and a rag with a bit of acetone on it before it sets. NOTE: JB is not dishwasher-safe from what I hear, and if you're filling large gaps with it, it will leave a less-than-attractive grey line in the joint.
Click to expand...

JB Weld is good stuff (and made right here in Texas !).
I've used it to attach scales...as well as seat bolts in drilled concrete.

On non-porous parts (brass, steel, plastic, etc - not leather or wood), always degrease the parts before applying epoxy using lighter fluid, denatured alcohol (not 'rubbing'), etc. Acetone works also, but check it 1st if you're attaching plastic parts, as it may attack some plastics. Alcohol and lighter fluid are typically safe to degrease plastics.
 
Both acetone and lighter fluid leave residue. Rubbing alcohol IS denatured alcohol. "Denatured" means toxins have been added so you can't drink it! Alcohol also "cuts" uncured epoxy. JB weld is simply a good epoxy with powdered metal added.
 
Thanks to Bill Deshivs, Flashlife and all other contributors. I really appreciate your comments and expertise.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Both acetone and lighter fluid leave residue. Rubbing alcohol IS denatured alcohol. "Denatured" means toxins have been added so you can't drink it! Alcohol also "cuts" uncured epoxy. JB weld is simply a good epoxy with powdered metal added.
Click to expand...

Acetone, if pure, is 100% volatile and will leave no residue...if, however, you stick your finger in it, it will dissolve the skin oils and leave them as a residue.
Same for lighter fluid ( 100% volatile naphtha, C16 hydrocarbons). We've used these as spectro-grade degreasers in the electronics industry forever...where parts per billion residues are killers...they work on aerospace optics.

Rubbing alcohol is 30-50% water to prevent it drying your skin. Denatured alc. is a few % benzene or other volatile toxin, to prevent drinking.

Yep, JB Weld has steel powder in it. :)
 
I run a pin through the guard. 3/32 brass on a brass, or stainless for stainless guards and pommels. Drill, then insert pin and peen lightly to fill all traces of the gap, then grind and buff. A mechanical joint together with soldering or epoxy will ensure a strong fit.
 
There are a lot of the old knifemakers that just use epoxy, but they have there pieces fitted very well where they have to be hammered or pressed on. Once you have the handle on the guard cannot go anyplace. Fit everything tight and you will not have a problem with solder or epoxy
 
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