Attachment options for pocket carried fixed blades

[steele37031]

I want to be able to carry a couple of my fixed blade knives in a pocket, of coarse one at a time, but I want to know of a few mounting options for the sheath so that the blade can be drawn and re-inserted in the sheath without having to fumble and hold the sheath, the knives I will be carrying will be a Kabar large TDI tanto and a Becker necker CSM..... I have searched for pictures on the net of custom kydex sheaths that may fit my purpose but I keep coming up short and I have only found one design and I'm sure there have got to be more...

 

[cotdt]

Hang it on your neck.

 

[steele37031]

Hang it on your neck.

Its amazing I vist a forum for advise and all I seem to find is the only wisearse without anything usefull to enterject into a conversation.....

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Its amazing I vist a forum for advise and all I seem to find is the only wisearse without anything usefull to enterject into a conversation.....

What fun would it be without those comments though?



I think, really, your only option is a pocket clip. I can't think of another way to secure a sheath to a pocket unless a clip was used.

TF

 

[murphda2]

You could always put a loop on the tip of your sheath and use a safety pic to attach it to the inside of your pocket. I doubt you'll find that option on a sheath maker's web-site, but I tested it before I typed this. It will work. Of course, resheathing the blade will be a little tricky with any sheath inside a pants pocket. It would be a little easier in the inside pocket of a jacket.

Murph

 

[stitchawl]

Just make your sheath backing the same size as your pocket so it can't shift around. Attach your sheath pocket to this backing.

I've done this with large pocket folders and have no difficulty keeping the knife in the proper position, no difficulty drawing or replacing the folder in its sheath. The whole key is to be sure that the backing can't move around in the pocket! Start with that, and everything else is easy. I wouldn't use Kydex though. That takes too much effort to remove from the sheath. Being in your pocket there is no need for such strong retention.

Stitchawl

 

[Ramm9]

Velcro could be your friend if you want to use a couple of stitches to fasten a piece in your pants pockets.

 

[stitchawl]

Velcro could be your friend if you want to use a couple of stitches to fasten a piece in your pants pockets.

That is how I attach my sheaths to the backing plates! I make all my sheaths with industrial strength Velco backs. That way I can make different carry-style backing plates without having to make too many different complete sheaths.

I have backing plates for pant's pocket carry for different pants that I wear, each made specifically to fit the pocket of those pants. Another plate that works for vertical belt carry, horizontal belt carry, angled carry, and inverted carry. Same plate for four + carry styles. Altogether a very versatile way to carry a knife in any configuration!

I got this idea from the carry system that used to be shipped with the 'old' Gerber Guardian.

Stitchawl

 

[Kiah]

In Kydex, you could go with a sheath with eyelets on both sides and a good thumb groove on the spine side. Run a piece of paracord in an inverted "Y" (or a wide strip of leather or webbing) from your belt to the top two eyelets on the sheath. This should give you an easy draw and the sheath should stay in the same general location with the paracord (or leather, webbing) from your belt providing support for reinsertion.

 

[Bill1170]

Just make your sheath backing the same size as your pocket so it can't shift around. Attach your sheath pocket to this backing.

I've done this with large pocket folders and have no difficulty keeping the knife in the proper position, no difficulty drawing or replacing the folder in its sheath. The whole key is to be sure that the backing can't move around in the pocket! Start with that, and everything else is easy. I wouldn't use Kydex though. That takes too much effort to remove from the sheath. Being in your pocket there is no need for such strong retention.

Stitchawl

Stitchawl,

What material do you use for your backing plates? Seems you'd want something semi-rigid and breathable. I've been dreaming up a system like what you describe, and appreciate any input from you.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[stitchawl]

Stitchawl,

What material do you use for your backing plates? Seems you'd want something semi-rigid and breathable. I've been dreaming up a system like what you describe, and appreciate any input from you.

Thanks,
Bill

Bill, it's as simple as can be! (Maybe even simpler! :thumbup: )

For the backing plate for a pocket sheath I use a piece of 6-7oz leather with the smooth side facing IN towards my leg. (For my regular sheaths the backing plate is made with thicker leather.) This puts the rough side against the cloth of the pocket so friction helps keep in in place. The backing plate needs to be cut just 1/8 inch smaller than the pocket (below the opening) so it can't shift around. Use the pocket for a template and trace around it, then cut the leather just a wee bit smaller. It's important to skive the front edges (rough side) of the plate so that they bend slightly inwards towards your leg. This will keep the plate from imprinting and being visible. (Without this, it would look as if you have a paperback book in your pocket!) all of this should take about 5 minutes to prepare... Nothing fancy here.

I make the knife pocket itself using a soft but thick suede, and it goes onto the plate on the side closest to your leg. (That's important! More suede and more friction to keep the sheath anchored inside the pocket.) I like my knives to be closer to the side rather than the front of my leg, so that's where I sew the 'loop side' Velcro to the backplate; almost to the edge of the backing plate. (The sheath pocket itself really just keeps the knife vertical and keeps it from shifting around. No need for it to be too snug. It's really just a squarish tube! ) I stitch it all around the knife, leaving a wider, almost 'funnel' mouth on it, and use a stiff piece of 'hook side' Velcro stitched and glued to the back. I then use a bit of white glue to stiffen the funnel mouth of the sheath just a bit. This makes it much easier to re-insert the knife when finished with it. If you prefer, you can stitch the sheath pocket directly to the backing plate.

The entire construction takes less than an hour, uses two pieces of leather (one 6-7oz backing plate and one 4-5oz suede for the sheath) slightly smaller than the pocket, two pieces of Velcro, and about 2-3 yards of stitching cord.

Tools - knife or scissors to cut the leather, skiving knife if you have one or just use a razor knife to thin the edges of the backing plate, a stitchawl, and a harness needle.

Keep in mind that you might have to make 2-3 different backing plates... Different pants have different shaped pockets and to make this work well the backing plate has to fit snugly. After a couple of wearings, the backing plate will bend around and conform to the curve of your thigh, the skived edges will bend in even further (you can wet them a bit and curve them in by hand if you want) and the entire sheath will be quite invisible in your pocket. Have fun!

Stitchawl

 

[Bill1170]

Bill, it's as simple as can be! (Maybe even simpler! :thumbup: )

For the backing plate for a pocket sheath I use a piece of 6-7oz leather with the smooth side facing IN towards my leg. (For my regular sheaths the backing plate is made with thicker leather.) This puts the rough side against the cloth of the pocket so friction helps keep in in place. The backing plate needs to be cut just 1/8 inch smaller than the pocket (below the opening) so it can't shift around. Use the pocket for a template and trace around it, then cut the leather just a wee bit smaller. It's important to skive the front edges (rough side) of the plate so that they bend slightly inwards towards your leg. This will keep the plate from imprinting and being visible. (Without this, it would look as if you have a paperback book in your pocket!) all of this should take about 5 minutes to prepare... Nothing fancy here.

I make the knife pocket itself using a soft but thick suede, and it goes onto the plate on the side closest to your leg. (That's important! More suede and more friction to keep the sheath anchored inside the pocket.) I like my knives to be closer to the side rather than the front of my leg, so that's where I sew the 'loop side' Velcro to the backplate; almost to the edge of the backing plate. (The sheath pocket itself really just keeps the knife vertical and keeps it from shifting around. No need for it to be too snug. It's really just a squarish tube! ) I stitch it all around the knife, leaving a wider, almost 'funnel' mouth on it, and use a stiff piece of 'hook side' Velcro stitched and glued to the back. I then use a bit of white glue to stiffen the funnel mouth of the sheath just a bit. This makes it much easier to re-insert the knife when finished with it. If you prefer, you can stitch the sheath pocket directly to the backing plate.

The entire construction takes less than an hour, uses two pieces of leather (one 6-7oz backing plate and one 4-5oz suede for the sheath) slightly smaller than the pocket, two pieces of Velcro, and about 2-3 yards of stitching cord.

Tools - knife or scissors to cut the leather, skiving knife if you have one or just use a razor knife to thin the edges of the backing plate, a stitchawl, and a harness needle.

Keep in mind that you might have to make 2-3 different backing plates... Different pants have different shaped pockets and to make this work well the backing plate has to fit snugly. After a couple of wearings, the backing plate will bend around and conform to the curve of your thigh, the skived edges will bend in even further (you can wet them a bit and curve them in by hand if you want) and the entire sheath will be quite invisible in your pocket. Have fun!

Stitchawl

Stitchawl,

This is brilliant! Thank you so much for taking the time to reply in detail.

I need to get some leather and try this myself. I'll need to find a good local source for it. I had already realized that different pants would require different plates. Tell me, do you use the pocket for any other stuff, or only for the items in the sheath? On my right front pocket I often carry a knife and keys, with the keys varying in size depending on which vehicle I drive. I have two sets, one for each vehicle. I guess putting stuff on the outer side would compromise the friction hold of the plate on the pocket fabric. Perhaps a key pouch can go just in front of the folder pouch.

Bill

 

[stitchawl]

Stitchawl,

This is brilliant! Thank you so much for taking the time to reply in detail.

I need to get some leather and try this myself. I'll need to find a good local source for it. I had already realized that different pants would require different plates. Tell me, do you use the pocket for any other stuff, or only for the items in the sheath? On my right front pocket I often carry a knife and keys, with the keys varying in size depending on which vehicle I drive. I have two sets, one for each vehicle. I guess putting stuff on the outer side would compromise the friction hold of the plate on the pocket fabric. Perhaps a key pouch can go just in front of the folder pouch.

Bill

For a pocket sheath I use 'junk leather' for the backing plate. Stuff that's either stained or branded, or the compressed stuff you sometimes run across and don't really want to use for anything 'good.' Being that it's going inside a pocket and won't be seen or have any other duties but to 'exist,' the junk leather serves well. It doesn't need to be strong heavy leather. When I make a backing plate for visible use, i.e. on a belt or shoulder strap I use good quality 8-9oz veggie tanned cow hide, and 'finish' the edges properly. For those, I usually cover the entire plate with a layer of Velcro, so slapping on any sheath in any orientation is just literally a quick slap! For the pocket sheaths I've even old boot leather. It doesn't need to be strong, only strong enough to support its own weight. There is virtually no pulling on it in use.

The concept of the pocket sheath can be expanded to hold keys as well. I used to have an old VW bug back in the day, and had a 'Trunk Organizer' that was made to go over the spare tire that was clamped vertically in the front of the trunk. This organizer was a naugahide sheet with pockets attached to it that slipped over the top of the spare tire and hung down in front of it. The pocket sheath can function in the same fashion; knife pouch on one side, key pouch next to it, etc., etc. Velcro is handy that way.

Having the backing plate pressing against the front of the pocket keeps what ever is behind it from pushing out against the cloth besides creating the friction to keep itself in place. Makes everything much neater looking, as well as distributing the weight of the stuff across the entire pocket. Nothing droops down against the bottom of the pocket. I find it makes carrying things much more comfortable, especially a large, heavy folder. I also carry my mobile phone in that same pocket when I don't want it in a shirt pocket. Again, Velcro keeps it from dragging down the bottom of the pocket.

Stitchawl

 

[Bill1170]

For a pocket sheath I use 'junk leather' for the backing plate. Stuff that's either stained or branded, or the compressed stuff you sometimes run across and don't really want to use for anything 'good.' Being that it's going inside a pocket and won't be seen or have any other duties but to 'exist,' the junk leather serves well. It doesn't need to be strong heavy leather. When I make a backing plate for visible use, i.e. on a belt or shoulder strap I use good quality 8-9oz veggie tanned cow hide, and 'finish' the edges properly. For those, I usually cover the entire plate with a layer of Velcro, so slapping on any sheath in any orientation is just literally a quick slap! For the pocket sheaths I've even old boot leather. It doesn't need to be strong, only strong enough to support its own weight. There is virtually no pulling on it in use.

The concept of the pocket sheath can be expanded to hold keys as well. I used to have an old VW bug back in the day, and had a 'Trunk Organizer' that was made to go over the spare tire that was clamped vertically in the front of the trunk. This organizer was a naugahide sheet with pockets attached to it that slipped over the top of the spare tire and hung down in front of it. The pocket sheath can function in the same fashion; knife pouch on one side, key pouch next to it, etc., etc. Velcro is handy that way.

Having the backing plate pressing against the front of the pocket keeps what ever is behind it from pushing out against the cloth besides creating the friction to keep itself in place. Makes everything much neater looking, as well as distributing the weight of the stuff across the entire pocket. Nothing droops down against the bottom of the pocket. I find it makes carrying things much more comfortable, especially a large, heavy folder. I also carry my mobile phone in that same pocket when I don't want it in a shirt pocket. Again, Velcro keeps it from dragging down the bottom of the pocket.

Stitchawl

Stitchawl,

I like the idea of a fully Velcro'd pocket plate with infinitely adjustable sheath modules for the items we have both mentioned. Do you just glue the Velcro to the leather with contact cement, or sew it, or both?

Leather has been mailed to me and I can get the Velcro locally. Now I need to inventory my trousers to see how many plates I will want to make.

Thanks again.

Bill

 

[stitchawl]

Stitchawl,

I like the idea of a fully Velcro'd pocket plate with infinitely adjustable sheath modules for the items we have both mentioned. Do you just glue the Velcro to the leather with contact cement, or sew it, or both?

Leather has been mailed to me and I can get the Velcro locally. Now I need to inventory my trousers to see how many plates I will want to make.

Thanks again.

Bill

I glue it with contact cement AND stitch it around the edges. I usually use large sheets of Velcro (loops) on the backing plates just because it looks neater, but I suppose two strips would work just as well.

Once I started using Velcro and separate back plates I never made another sheath with leather loops or any other attachment style. The Velcro allowed for so many different carry configurations that it solved all my carry needs perfectly! I did discover, however, that there is a BIG difference between regular Velcro and industrial strength Velcro, and only use the industrial grade for externally mounted sheaths such as larger fixed blades and inverted carry knives. For pocket sheaths this isn't so important.

Stitchawl

 

[Bill1170]

Yes, Velcro is amazing stuff in the way that it opens up the possibilities for things we create. Thanks again.

Bill

 

[stitchawl]

Yes, Velcro is amazing stuff in the way that it opens up the possibilities for things we create. Thanks again.

Bill

Keep in mind the 'direction' of pull on the Velcro and you'll never run in to trouble. The stuff doesn't 'slide,' it only 'pulls.' If you get into an attachment situation (such as belt loops for a very heavy attachment,) make a '3-layer' attachement using 'double sided Velcro' for the middle piece, the inside and outside pieces pointing down and the middle piece pointing upwards. Absolutely bomb-proof! :thumbup:

Also keep in mind that there are many different grades of 'hook & loop' material out there, not all of them great...
Some are made of heavy weight plastic and I use these to attach heavy-weight items like Fire Extinguishers to the wall! This stuff works very well for attaching a heavy weight object sheath to the underside of a dashboard or the bottom of a bed frame as it won't bounce loose.

Stitchawl