I have this new Paul Chen Practical Katana that I received and was wondering how long it can survive without being removed from the box and the original coating of grease removed. Do they ship these right after they are manufactured/greased or are they often sitting around on stock shelves until they are ordered? I don't want to take it out and expose it yet because I need to get supplies to clean it with. My main concern is how long I have to get the oil I need to prevent it from rusting. The seller said about one or two months, while others told me there was really no time limit. I guess I don't know much about the lives of these swords before they get to you.
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Attention required for practical katana?
- Thread starter qwer9182
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2001
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- 227
Well qwer9182, I don't think anyone can answer that question without more details. What sort of climate do you live in? Humid or dry? Near the sea or inland? Do you have air con running? A dehumidifier?
In general, I'm not sure why you're asking. A drop of simple everyday 3-in-1 or motor oil is enough to prevent the blade from rusting, what sort of special cleaning supplies are you going to purchase?
In general, I'm not sure why you're asking. A drop of simple everyday 3-in-1 or motor oil is enough to prevent the blade from rusting, what sort of special cleaning supplies are you going to purchase?
We live in a pretty humid environment, not near the sea, with air conditioning running all the time. The note that came with the sword said that for the first 6 months it would need to be oiled every 10 days, and I wanted to wait until I would be there every 10 days or less, which occurs in about 2 weeks.
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- May 16, 2002
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I assume you're waiting on Choji oil or some other specialty oil. I use spray silicon lubricant for my blades, cheap and light, very good stuff. The grease they use a Chen's is pretty heavy, and will keep parts from rusting for a long time.
To speed the process, clean the gunk off with Isopropyl alchohol or a gun cleaner. Apply your lubricant, leave it on thick. Next day, see if it is still caked on the blade. If not, that means the excess has soaked in, and the steel was 'thirsty.'(more common with rough finished items or antique items. Repeat the lube thing the next day, and observe the results.
When the steel is no longer thirsty, finish with a thin coat fo lubricant, and check ina week or two. Keep in a dry place with a stable temp (closets are good), and/or put it in a sealed trash bag to stop moisture condensation.
Keith
To speed the process, clean the gunk off with Isopropyl alchohol or a gun cleaner. Apply your lubricant, leave it on thick. Next day, see if it is still caked on the blade. If not, that means the excess has soaked in, and the steel was 'thirsty.'(more common with rough finished items or antique items. Repeat the lube thing the next day, and observe the results.
When the steel is no longer thirsty, finish with a thin coat fo lubricant, and check ina week or two. Keep in a dry place with a stable temp (closets are good), and/or put it in a sealed trash bag to stop moisture condensation.
Keith
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 89
Hello,
I used to use choji (and I am still thinking it is really one of the best), but I now am using this breakfree product called "collector", its better than clp (their traditional rust free product), it is used in some museums and they said that the products be without any rust by five years, I prefer to apply that and re apply every six month and my swords have not a single rust spot, I used that by one year and a half.
I used to use choji (and I am still thinking it is really one of the best), but I now am using this breakfree product called "collector", its better than clp (their traditional rust free product), it is used in some museums and they said that the products be without any rust by five years, I prefer to apply that and re apply every six month and my swords have not a single rust spot, I used that by one year and a half.
- Joined
- May 16, 2002
- Messages
- 4,437
Hi, DHB:
Where did you obtain this wonderful stuff? I have some ancient spearheads (ming dyn.) that I would like to coat.
Keith
Where did you obtain this wonderful stuff? I have some ancient spearheads (ming dyn.) that I would like to coat.
Keith
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Messages
- 578
What I have been doing is putting a good application of paste wax, usually car wax. Then I use whatever protectant I have around. Sometimes gun oil, sometimes silicon stuff, sometimes Teflon based liquids like Break Free. I think that the car polish is the real "working" solution.
I usually try to work on all my Katana at least once a month. However, I must admit that I have let the Chen PKs sit for 6 weeks or longer without any damage.
I usually try to work on all my Katana at least once a month. However, I must admit that I have let the Chen PKs sit for 6 weeks or longer without any damage.
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,397
My 'Practical' arrived with light rust already on the blade.The 'Practical' series is just that in more than one way.
You don't have to treat it as gently or carefully as a more expensive, more finely crafted blade.
It is what it is, and a wonderful thing it is.
But it's not a $2000 blade.
...........................
Any of the other suggestions will work fine, but if you want to start off in the traditional vein, which I like too:
First though, if you do see rust.
Get some '0000 grade' steel wool (00000 if you can find it, very rare here) or some 2000-or-Finer grit wet-dry sandpaper from auto body supply.
Use baby oil or any other thin / light oil to help lubricate, then polish away (along the length, not circular or crossways)at any rust or blemish. It's best to do the whole blade lightly so you have an even finish, but start at the spot that needs it.
You can try rubbing at rust with the edge of a Hard piece of wood with oil to lube.
There are also rust removers in gun and automotive supply. They work, but they will etch the blade (grey shadow) if left on too long. Spot with small, fine brush (model or art supply) and rinse immediatly. Repeat as needed.
I believe the powder in the traditional cleaning kit is limestone dust.
You can get that at the woodfinishing supply shop, limestone powder called Rottenstone @ $5/lb. Make your own little bag for it. Make two bags and tie a cord between and you can use it as a bolo to tangle the legs of varments.
Choji oil is often made with light mineral oil (NOT heavy laxative oil---Light, same as baby oil but without fragrance)(special order at the pharmacy 16oz @ $4, or at least one brand of honing oil at the hardware store) plus 1% clove oil (many pharmacies & health food stores as Essential Oils @ maybe $6/oz). In round figures add 0.2oz clove oil to 16oz light mineral oil, shake well.
Find a couple of small 100% cotten cloths (flannel is my favorite, handkerchefs, cloth from fabric store, utility cloths from hardware or auto supply ) to keep with your cleaning kit. Keep one oily. Occasionally wash the other. Use the 2nd cloth to wipe the majority of oil from the blade. Or get travel size facial tissues for the latter job.
Wipe fingerprints and sweat from the blade and it shouldn't take much care to keep the rust off.
Check out www.swordforum.com for the Japanese forum.
All you questions answered.
All your answers questioned.
Lots of info.
Good Luck,