- Joined
- Sep 27, 2002
- Messages
- 285
What attributes, design features, do you consider essential on a tac/utility knife? Blade style, finish, guard, no guard, handle ergonomics, material, etc. Brett
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Attributes of a tactical knife
- Thread starter Brett Gatlin
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2003
- Messages
- 3,049
now, im no tactitian, nor do i know anything about knives, but, when looking for a knife, here are things that make me drool
CHOIL!!!! if i could have it my way - all my knives wouldhave an extended finger choil like the swamp rats do
and because the new ad tac will have it, once i get it, all my busse's will have one. i dont know what im going to do with my now defaced pd... (i may just keep it)
a non interucpted blade surface - for some reason, i hate tato's immensly... not the blade geometry - the broken blade surface, wich effectively cuts your cutting surfaces into a (lets say 4) 4 inch area, and a 1 inch area, instead of 5 continuous. the curve of the blade is what i use most often to innitiate cuts, so its rather vital to me.
fumble resistent handle - a handle that wont fall from your hands when your perfectly sober, and in good conditions. cause if its slippery at that point, its gonna suck when it gets wet, cold, and your passing out from hunger/sleep deprevatoin (lol... or when it just gets wet...). this may include a palm swell, a curved handle, textured slabs, whatever helps you hold on to the thing.
a steel that wont chip away on hard surfaces, and wont shatter when lateral force is applied in light amounts - example being wood working, while torking wood out with the blade.
a blade geometry that isnt a shoe. have you ever tried to cut something with the tip of your shoe? well thats what its like with some of the knives ive seen... if you have to shove your material from nothing, to 1/4 in under a half inch - its going to suck eternal, unless your only doing wood work, or pyring, and even then there are bette ways to keep a decent cutting serface and blade strength.
and if you can find it, something that you want to use. cause the thing your going to use most when you need it, is what you have available to you. a knife is worth only its monatery value if you dont have it with you when you need it.
just my two cents
CHOIL!!!! if i could have it my way - all my knives wouldhave an extended finger choil like the swamp rats do
and because the new ad tac will have it, once i get it, all my busse's will have one. i dont know what im going to do with my now defaced pd... (i may just keep it)a non interucpted blade surface - for some reason, i hate tato's immensly... not the blade geometry - the broken blade surface, wich effectively cuts your cutting surfaces into a (lets say 4) 4 inch area, and a 1 inch area, instead of 5 continuous. the curve of the blade is what i use most often to innitiate cuts, so its rather vital to me.
fumble resistent handle - a handle that wont fall from your hands when your perfectly sober, and in good conditions. cause if its slippery at that point, its gonna suck when it gets wet, cold, and your passing out from hunger/sleep deprevatoin (lol... or when it just gets wet...). this may include a palm swell, a curved handle, textured slabs, whatever helps you hold on to the thing.
a steel that wont chip away on hard surfaces, and wont shatter when lateral force is applied in light amounts - example being wood working, while torking wood out with the blade.
a blade geometry that isnt a shoe. have you ever tried to cut something with the tip of your shoe? well thats what its like with some of the knives ive seen... if you have to shove your material from nothing, to 1/4 in under a half inch - its going to suck eternal, unless your only doing wood work, or pyring, and even then there are bette ways to keep a decent cutting serface and blade strength.
and if you can find it, something that you want to use. cause the thing your going to use most when you need it, is what you have available to you. a knife is worth only its monatery value if you dont have it with you when you need it.
just my two cents
- Joined
- Mar 20, 1999
- Messages
- 7,497
My only requirements for a good tactical knife are...
1) Respect for and the ability to get along with other knives.
2) Patience, it's gonna be a long wait in that storage chest.
3) Self control, I don't appreciate knives biting their owner's hands.
1) Respect for and the ability to get along with other knives.
2) Patience, it's gonna be a long wait in that storage chest.
3) Self control, I don't appreciate knives biting their owner's hands.
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2003
- Messages
- 3,049
the wait for the new line is most definitely getting intense...
another note on tactical - as my step dad said, all cars are crap when their not working - no matter how much they cost or how much their worth. if its broken, he's gonna call it crap
another note on tactical - as my step dad said, all cars are crap when their not working - no matter how much they cost or how much their worth. if its broken, he's gonna call it crap