? AUS 8 and D2

Y

Yorkshire Boy

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Sep 27, 2008
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Can anybody tell me the characteristics of AUS 8 and D2 please?

Is D2 as time consuming to sharpen as VG10?

I'm looking at the ENZO Trapper, it comes in 3 grind styles, flat, scandi with micro bevel and full scandi and you can choose from 3 different steels, O-1, D2 or SS (which I believe is AUS 8).

I've seen a few pictures of chipped D2 full scandi grinds, is this steel too brittle for a fine full scandi grind?

How would AUS 8 hold up with a full scandi grind?

Thank you
 
Yorkshire Boy said:
Can anybody tell me the characteristics of AUS 8 and D2 please?

Is D2 as time consuming to sharpen as VG10?

I'm looking at the ENZO Trapper, it comes in 3 grind styles, flat, scandi with micro bevel and full scandi and you can choose from 3 different steels, O-1, D2 or SS (which I believe is AUS 8).

I've seen a few pictures of chipped D2 full scandi grinds, is this steel too brittle for a fine full scandi grind?

How would AUS 8 hold up with a full scandi grind?

Thank you
Click to expand...

AUS8 is a very fine grained stainless alloy. It has a bit less than 0.8% carbon and doesn't form much in the way of carbides so it does not have the abrasion resistance of alloys that do have carbides. It takes an extremely fine edge with less work than VG10.

D2 is a tool steel. It is not quite stainless. It has over 1% carbon and forms large carbides. It has great abrasion resistance, so it holds an edge a long time. But because of its coarse grain and large carbides, it is very hard to take it to an extremely fine edge. I can't do it, myself. There are those who can.

D2 is considerably harder to sharpen than VG10 unless you are using diamond hones.
 
get the O-1 you will be very happy with it. O-1 is the standard for bushcraft knives, it will out preform steel 3x the cost. D2 is a pain to sharpen but will hold the edge for a LONG time for a scandi its not ideal it has very large carbides that will chip out on a thin edge, but D2 in genral is tough as nails. I dont use many stainless steels so i cant comment on AUS-8.
 
plus 1 on getting the Enzo in O-1.


Oh HECK no, don't make an axe out of D2.
 
D2 is a punch press steel used to punch out other pieces of steel so please tell me where everyone gets the info that it is brittle?
 
Not brittle. just not a good choice for an axe head.
 
knarfeng said:
AUS8 is a very fine grained stainless alloy. It has a bit less than 0.8% carbon and doesn't form much in the way of carbides so it does not have the abrasion resistance of alloys that do have carbides. It takes an extremely fine edge with less work than VG10.

D2 is a tool steel. It is not quite stainless. It has over 1% carbon and forms large carbides. It has great abrasion resistance, so it holds an edge a long time. But because of its coarse grain and large carbides, it is very hard to take it to an extremely fine edge. I can't do it, myself. There are those who can.

D2 is considerably harder to sharpen than VG10 unless you are using diamond hones.
Click to expand...

I am loving your simple descriptions of alloy characteristics, is there anywhere I would find a complete list of this kind of info?
 
Yes, thank you very much for the great info.

I've got fillet and bait knives but I want this to be an all round "beefy" sporting knife, to be able to come fishing with me and do other outdoor tasks, hence me considering SS.
 
knarfeng is pretty good with his alloy knowledge. aus8 will need to be sharpened lots more than d2 or vg10. i agree with frank about getting the d2 to take a super fine edge. i've messed with a queen for three evenings &. CA;NT GET IT NEAR THE sharp as aus8 or vg10 now if you are going to want long edge durability & great corrosion resistance you need vg10. vg10 has 1.0 points of colbalt & i'm not sure if that makes it less brittle OR ALLOWS smaller grains, or even both qualities. d2 is a great performer & with a little care you wo'nt have a lot of staining.
 
I was a tad bit worried that the CPMD2 on my Para would be tough to sharpen, but I have found that a little work on the sharpmaker and it's not that bad. I keep a 40 on it and it holds an edge forever. For some reason I find the 154CM on my mini grip harder to sharpen?
 
D2 can be a huge pain to re-sharpen. AUS-8 is easier to sharpen, and more rust-resistant. I've gotten excellent results from my AUS-8 folders. Just recently received another Benchmade Benchmite II in AUS-8. My D2 Dozier knife never gets used.
 
Not Being able to get D2 as sharp is going to be a issue with the sharpener and not the steel ( no offense to anyone)

I had a queen blade in recently that was happly finished to .25 microns and was on the level of of a straight razor. If you have the right tools anything is possible :)
 
None taken.

If Dennis Strickland also has problems with it, then I am in good company. The man has considerably more cutlery experience than you and I put together.

I didn't say it couldn't be done. I said it takes more effort.
 
knifenut1013 you have given me great stuff in past, do'nt want to side track the thread but your reply will probably help lots of us. other than rebeveling i freehand my sharpening [no jigs] that may be my problem due to my age. however on vg10 & 1095 & s30v i get it pretty good.should i purchase a leather stroup & diamond pastes? gave my old barber stroup away some months back.maybe its time to get one of the mechnical devices like lansky to get that edge that cuts one hair 3 or 4 times. generally that sharp is'nt necessary for hay string & poly rope . but it aggravatates me on the d2 since around the house i like to cut envelopes like a lazer & fool around with shaving paper. i just ca'nt seem to get the 1095 edge on d2. maybe i'll try a more acute bevel since my machine is already set up in kitchen. you new guys have definitely surpassed what us oletimers called sharp. the hair whittlin videos are awesome.i would be curious to see if this edge would holdup on ranch. i do'nt twist knives when cutting. thanks dennis.
 
I own and love D2 knives. However, it takes a lot of time and skill to form a fine edge, and, it is not stainless (though it resists staining with proper care). If you are very skilled at shapening, plan to use the blade hard (where a thin, fine bevel is not usually the best) and do not anticipate carrying the knife in environments that promote rust (wet environments, especially salt water) get the D2. If you need true stainless, and your sharpening skills are not highly developed, you will probably be happier with either of the other options. The good news: you cannot make a mistake here. Well made knives of any of the three alloys you name can all be good performers. It all depends on how you plan to use and maintain the blade.

Enjoy your choice!
 
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