A friend brought up this question: why do most autos have aluminum/metal handles instead of G10. I can think of a few reasons, including better fit/finish for something more "techy" like an auto knife, and maybe more reliable (I think a button serves better in metal handles rather than plastic, for example). And metal is probably more "solid" for a knife with auto components. But is there more to it than that?
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Autos: Why mostly Aluminum?
- Thread starter THG
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2008
- Messages
- 1,341
It saves weight and I guess it's fairly easy to work with to create the intricate mechanism needed for an auto.
I wouldn't be so sure about that - it depends on knife
But I'll agree with you in that...
...completely.
Another thing is ... money. Matching prefectly stell or aluminium liners and G10 or micarta overlays (or other material) is quite difficult while compare it to CNC-made aluminium blocks.
In other words - it costs more...:grumpy:
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Messages
- 23,095
lighter than steel and cheaper than Titanium.
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2004
- Messages
- 18,850
On autos like OTFs the inside of the handle is what the mechanism runs against. If you use something like G-10 it will just wear out in no time at all.
Aluminium is probably the best choice because as mentioned its lighter than steel and cheaper than Ti but is still good and strong and has good enough wear resistance,
especially with the coatings used by folks like microtech.
On a side opening auto, if its a coil spring, it needs housed in something that will not
wear out where the spring is "secured" to the handle so the spring will charge when the blade is closed,
you could use liners I supose but I can think of one or two potential probs.
On a leaf spring auto I dont see why you couldnt use G-10 with liners though.
Aluminium is probably the best choice because as mentioned its lighter than steel and cheaper than Ti but is still good and strong and has good enough wear resistance,
especially with the coatings used by folks like microtech.
On a side opening auto, if its a coil spring, it needs housed in something that will not
wear out where the spring is "secured" to the handle so the spring will charge when the blade is closed,
you could use liners I supose but I can think of one or two potential probs.
On a leaf spring auto I dont see why you couldnt use G-10 with liners though.
Many auto's use aluminum because it can be cast to shape cheap. Machining aluminum is no more expensive than G10 - and G10 has a lot of inherent lubricity, plus won't corrode. Aluminum will abrade with grit as it works into the mechanism, and peens at high pressure points, which allows working tolerances to build up.
In the $400 range most makers will do a great job of building a durable knife, but under $100, they are usually a $40 knife with a $2 spring and a ninja surcharge. And did I mention the really cheap auto makers use cast zinc - pot metal - for their grips?
Bring on the G10.
In the $400 range most makers will do a great job of building a durable knife, but under $100, they are usually a $40 knife with a $2 spring and a ninja surcharge. And did I mention the really cheap auto makers use cast zinc - pot metal - for their grips?
Bring on the G10.
its always about money....................
ti would be a bit better but its a lot more expensive so we get aluminum instead which works ok i suppose, i know my '99 MT SOCOM elite auto has been probably my best auto, never a problem and i have fired it hundreds if not thousands of times and it wasnt new when i got it and its aluminum so i suppose aluminum will hold up with use, though i doubt it will hold up as well as ti would.
ti would be a bit better but its a lot more expensive so we get aluminum instead which works ok i suppose, i know my '99 MT SOCOM elite auto has been probably my best auto, never a problem and i have fired it hundreds if not thousands of times and it wasnt new when i got it and its aluminum so i suppose aluminum will hold up with use, though i doubt it will hold up as well as ti would.
GronK
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2001
- Messages
- 19,370
I'm surprised no one has brought up the biggest negative to aluminum handles. They scratch way too easy! Colored anodizing can be great to look at but one slip and there you are with a shiny metal spot that can't be easily refinished. It's not a bad effect on a "user" but really hurts the resale value if you do a lot of swap/buy/selling of high dollar autos.
aluminum doesnt scuff any easier than ti does, if ya like knives like that ys just gotta get used to it, or not carry 'em lol.
one reason i dont mind carrying some of my customs with ti handles is that for a small fee most 'smiths will re-beadblast 'em for ya and make 'em look new again, my 1st custom was a ti crawford kasper and it was scuffed up really bad so i got a good deal on it, pat re-did the ti, installed a new liner and made it look LNIB for $25 including shipping, sorry to say thats not easily done on anodized aluminum production stuff though, on them ya gotta either get used to it or dont carry 'em.
one reason i dont mind carrying some of my customs with ti handles is that for a small fee most 'smiths will re-beadblast 'em for ya and make 'em look new again, my 1st custom was a ti crawford kasper and it was scuffed up really bad so i got a good deal on it, pat re-did the ti, installed a new liner and made it look LNIB for $25 including shipping, sorry to say thats not easily done on anodized aluminum production stuff though, on them ya gotta either get used to it or dont carry 'em.