Avoiding hairline scratches on blade while sharpening

jfindon

jfindon

Joined
Dec 12, 2006
Messages
967
I have a KME sharpener and no matter what I do, I wind up with this hairline scratches on the blade that reflect light. I'm all for usage marks and scratches like that, but these stupid little fine scratches that are a result of me apparently not knowing what I'm doing really annoy me.

Am I alone here? Is it because I'm not setting the angle properly and the stones drag across the rest of the blade instead of just the bevel? Is it because I don't typically use lube?
 
I did the same thing this afternoon, got sloppy and ran a diamond stone across the end of the blade. The above recommendation is a great idea, and I feel stupid for not thinking of that myself.
 
Another thing that really helps with my kme is to wipe the slurry off the blade real quick when it builds up a little. Even without taping I don't scratch the blade. Think about it, it's physically impossible for the stone to contact the edge unless you slide up over the bevel. So those scratches come from the slurry getting mashed between the hone and blade. I use a different piece of paper towel for each grit to avoid cross contamination. Thanks Sadden for that tip.
 
The stuff building up on the blades makes sense I guess, though I haven't been using anything to lubricate. I guess the dust can do the same thing though. I'll probably just start taping them to be safe.

As far as stones, I have the original four that came with it:

four-stones-and-base


Can't use the fine stone because it's thicker than the others and the angle is always off, couldn't figure out how to get it to work. While we're on the subject, are the new diamond stones worth getting? They have 50-1500 grit I think.
 
I use the diamond stones. Better or worse is kind of decided by your personal preference. The diamond stones take material off faster, but leave deeper scratches and the final finish won't be as refined. You might want to consider using water. The purpose it serves really isn't lubrication, it's to help carry away the steel and abrasive you grind off so that the hone doesn't get clogged and can cut more efficiently. It will work faster with water. As far as the last stone being thicker, I use an angle cube when I switch stones to set the angle again precisely. But you can also mark the edge with sharpie and readjust the angle slightly until your removing all the marker again. I'd recommend you call Ron Schwartz. He's the creator of the system. Anytime in the am on weekdays he will answer if you call the number on the website. He's a great guy and has been very helpful for me.
 
jfindon said:
The stuff building up on the blades makes sense I guess, though I haven't been using anything to lubricate. I guess the dust can do the same thing though. I'll probably just start taping them to be safe.

As far as stones, I have the original four that came with it:

four-stones-and-base


Can't use the fine stone because it's thicker than the others and the angle is always off, couldn't figure out how to get it to work. While we're on the subject, are the new diamond stones worth getting? They have 50-1500 grit I think.
Click to expand...

I use duct tape , it holds up better than blue painters tape. Just use some wd40 to remove any residue.

The gold class are definitely some high quality diamond plates. You can use them to do heavy stock removal and leave coarser "toothier" edges for knives that you want that kind of an edge on.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, but now for a stupid question: what's the best way to tape the blade? Just put pieces as close to the edge as possible, or completely tape everything and use the stones to wear the tape away where it needs to?
 
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I cover my blades completely with blue tape. I leave only a small small gap between the tape and the edge.
 
Well, I ordered the new low profile jaws, 4 micron emulsion, and the kangaroo leather strop from KME. My goal is at least one mirror finish with no scratches, might have to buy a cheaper knife to experiment with.
 
I saw mention of an angle cube up there, I never knew such a thing existed. I think I need one of those, I'd rather have a pretty clear angle definition at the start than marking the blade up and trying until I find it. My only question is how does it work with small blades? It looks like you stick it on the blade and tilt until the edge hits the table, but on small blades (like my ZT0561) I don't see how that would work...

Sorry for all the noob questions. I did get my KME strop last night and actually have a fairly reflective edge on my Skyline right now, to the point of being able to push cut paper and make S shapes while I cutting. Probably the sharpest I've ever had a knife, which is still really nothing in comparison to what others do. Also, no scratches on the blade. Rather than going back and forth like I used to do, I just made sweeping motions like you're probably supposed to do. I put water on the stone and wiped both off periodically and just made sure I took my time.

While on the subject, KME says to use one drop of the emulsion oil and spread it around evenly. This is the result of a couple small drops because it just soaked in right away and didn't even spread along the entire length. Is this ok? How do you tell you need to apply more? I know it says one drop is good for three knives but I don't know what I'm looking for to see if I need more.

ibx428hSLskNBn.jpg
 
I use marker to find the initial angle. Then set the cube on the flat part of the kme that the handle attaches to and zero it. Then take a reading with the cube setting on top of the stone carrier and write it down or remember it. Each time I change hones, I set the angle cube on the stone carrier and adjust the angle until it matches the initial angle. This works because I clamp the KME in a vise when I use it. I've heard that there is a small amount of play I'm the KME factory stand and this could throw off your readings. Not sure about the cbn question. But if Ken Schwartz says I only need 1 drop I trust him. I just use 1.
 
I'm a fan of taping blades. I use electrical tape instead of painters. It peels off easy without leaving any residue and it protects a little better if you slip.
 
It is normal for kens emulsions to soak in and dry quickly. You should be ready with a gloved hand to quickly spread it evenly. Its not crucial though. 2 drops on that little strop will last a good long time. Much longer than 3 knives.

I should mention that Kens formulations for the KME are not oil based. They are water based making them safe to use on waterstones to enhance their performance. Such as the choseras for the KME.
 
Im using smith's tri-hone system(arkansas stones) with water to sharpen my cold steel hideout and I get these scratches all over the bevel, the knife is scandi ground so I presume it shows up more than on other grinds. Now I painted the entire bevel with marker pen and when I sharpen the knife marker spots are staying on some areas, does that mean that the bevel has not been ground properly? Should I start with the coarse stone to even out the bevel?
 
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