Avoiding kydex scratches

FlaMtnBkr

FlaMtnBkr

Joined
Oct 20, 2004
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Anyone have any tips on how to prevent kydex from scratching up a blade? I know lots of you guys spend a lot of time getting the blade finish just right and was wondering how you prevent a kydex sheath from messing it up. I am about to make a sheath and was wondering if I could form the kydex and then cover it with something soft. Maybe spray it with some kind of paint/undercoating/???. Or maybe glue a layer of rubber (intertube comes to mind) or felt or suede to the kydex before connecting both sides of the sheath. Any thoughts or comments? I'm always learning from you guys and I'm sure someone will have a great suggestion. Thanks!!!

Ryan
 
A LOOONG time ago I reveiwed a knife for a guy I'm not sure is even still making knives, but he used some soft, felt-like material in his sheaths. Didn't effect the fit-up in the least, but I'm not sure how durable it was, if it took on water, etc etc. Sheath felt great, though.

The going wisdom pretty much seems to be "If you use Concealex/Kydex you're pretty much going to get scratches, so get over it." I've been making sheaths since 1999 and every sheath is going to scuff the finish more or less. It helps to really clean the inside surface really well and clean it out again after you finish the sheath to get all the particles out, then fine tune the fit last. Lately I've finished up a few knives and hesitated to make sheaths for them because I was proud of the finish and didn't want the scratches, but the people who got the knives wanted them as users, so I got over it.

That's the big downside to Kydex/Concealex, though. You should be able to find quite a bit of stuff about lining sheaths if you do a search, but again, I think the general consensus is that they all leave something to be desired. I'll have to dig through my computer and find that review so I can figure out who made the knife and if he's still doing it, what he used, etc. It was a sweet setup!

Good luck!
 
What Chiro said about making sure it's clean is sound advice.
For my 2 cents I would say : Make sure your finnish runs the length of the blade.......And.........When forming the sheath, use a single layer of masking tape on the blade flats(DO NOT overlap the tape). This should leave enough space between the blade and sheath so as to not trap dirt.
Mace
 
MAce, I've tried the masking tape trick, but it's never worked for me. I'm always left with just a bit of blade play and that drives me nuts. Do you get a nice tight fit doing it that way?
 
I took the advice above when I was getting scratches and it has definatly helped....I should also add that I am NO expert when it comes to making Kydex sheaths............As far as blade play, I don't think it's ever been enough for me to notice and get nuts about. Maybe you could find a tape thats thinner or try just taping one side and see if that works.
Mace
 
To eliminate the blade-play with the knife in the sheath: tape the blade, but not the tip. Leave an inch (or less) of the blade tip un-taped, then form the kydex to the blade. You wind up with the most of the body of the sheath not touching the blade. That helps eliminate scratching of the blade by debris embedded in the kydex.

The blade sides won't be sliding along the kydex as the knife is sheathed. But as it bottoms out in the sheath, the narrowing kydex pinches the tip into place and holds it there.

So the knife is held fast in two places: at the handle of the knife where you've formed the retention into the sheath and at the very tip of the blade.
 
instead of doing all this, couldnt you just wipe the blade before you sheath it and get the same results? wiping the blade is second nature for me anymore after, so thats why im asking.
 
If the blade touches the Kydex it will scratch eventually.
This is how I do my sheaths and it seems to work.
One layer of blue painters tape each side
Four more layers of masking tape each side
Form sheath
Remove tape
Put a finger tip size indent on the back of the sheath right at the tip. this eliminates wobble and grips the blade W/O Much scratching.
Tweek around the choil or guard for grip at the top.
This gives a good outline of the blade W/O much contact
Be sure to loosen and sticky points on the back of the sheath, heating and holding the blade there untill it cools again.
Email me if you get stuck
Also you can line the Kydex with suede leather using contact cement.
Use the same method as above
Also you can use the grippy side of the 2" wide velcro to line your sheath
Satin finishes above 400-600 grit forget Kydex Use Leather
 
I use 2 layers of duct tape on the blades, I tweak the retention in the bolster area. Also I use screws and the top screw is able to adjust retention.
Its not the kydex thats scratching the knives, its the crap in the sheath.
I also make my sheaths so you can open them up and clean them out when grit gets trapped in them.. Thats what works for me..


Take Care
Trace.
 
So the knife is held fast in two places: at the handle of the knife where you've formed the retention into the sheath and at the very tip of the blade.
Click to expand...

Ahhh! That's a great idea! I'll try it next time. I can't stand to have even a slight bit of play in a sheath. If I do it drives me nuts, so I'll take scratches over play any day. On my knives it isn't so much scratching that's the problem, but scuffing. I differentially heat treat all my blades and then etch them, so the etching gets beat up pretty easily by the sheath. But that's life! I'll try this trick and let you know what I think of it. Why didn't I think of this...?
 
Thanks for the replies everyone! I'll give the tape trick a go this afternoon. One more quick question: Would a dark etched finish resist the scratches? I read about applying a blueing solution and then soaking in clorox for five minutes to give a dark 'rustic' finish. Just wondering if this would hold up better. Also, I think this was for carbon steels such as 5160, is there any way to accomplish the same finish on stainless like 440C? Thanks again!!!
 
R.J. Martin lines his kydex sheaths with moleskin. I have a few of his knives with these sheaths, and the blades do not get scratched. Ya gotta be a little more careful putting the blade in the sheath, so that you don't cut the moleskin, but I like the way it works.
 
That I don't know about. The etch I do on my knives is a ferric chloride etch to enhance the hamon. It's not super-durable, so scuffs will wear through it eventually. But I'm not sure about the type you're talking about...
 
Hey Guys....

Don't line your sheaths with anything....

However if you really like scratching,, then feel free to line them with anything you wish...

Lining a sheath promotes scratching not the other way around...

ttyle

Eric...
 
Normark said:
Lining a sheath promotes scratching not the other way around...

ttyle

Eric...
Click to expand...

Actually, not true, unless you allow dirt or crud into your sheaths.
 
Hey Danbo..

Actually,, Absolutely true...

I don't care how well you take care of your blades and sheaths,, dirt, grit and a million and one things will get into those sheaths, that is unless the knife/sheath is a Safe Queen and in a plexiglass box...

And.. Once the dirt gets into a lined sheath,, you are SOL,, you'll never get it out...You can't wash it,, ca't take it apart,,and blowing air into the sheath only moves those particles around causing scratches in other places...

And... Once the lining becomes damaged or starts to degrade, or separates from the kydex,, it'll bunch up in the bottom of the sheath like a cheerleaders Calvins on the floor of a 78 Camero.... :)

What you are doing by lining a sheath is asking for trouble...

However it's only my opinion..:)

Edited to add::

I've got upwards of 250 knives,many customs,,mostly productions, all in my sheaths,, none of them are lined,, very very few have scratches on them from the sheaths,, I can think of only a couple.. If I thought it would work,, trust me,, I'd be doing it...

It's a Great idea but it doesn't work...

ttyle

Eric....
 
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