Axe eye size

T

Trevor51

Joined
Jun 24, 2015
Messages
93
I picked up this old double bit axe with no makers mark. When I was going to put a handle on it I noticed the top of the eye is smaller then the bottom. I always thought it was the other way around. Do u guys think it will be a issue if I go ahead and put a handle on it?
 
I suggest being sure you have it oriented correctly. What makes you think its eye is upside down ?

Lots of axes get their toes worn down to where they may appear upside down.
 
I agree with lieblad, I have a Marshall wells zenith double bit that has the makers mark printed upside down, or at least I'm pretty sure it is. The eye is the same size on both ends and the bits don't seem to be worn down as much, although when the makers mark is oriented the correct way it definitely looks to be upside down. Not exactly the same as what you're dealing with but depending what it was used for it could very well just be worn down so that it looks like it's correct but it's really meant to go the other way. There are axes that both ends of the eye are equal size like my zenith but the majority are smaller on the bottom and a bit larger on the top to account for the wedge widening it, and I've yet to see one that truly was smaller on the top.
 
I'm all most positive it's supposed to be oriented with the eye up side down, photo bucket isn't working for me right now but I'll post a photo when it does.
 
I'd bet Lieblad is right. But regardless of how it is stamped the larger end of the eye should go up. That is, the handle should enter the head from the smaller side of the eye. The wedge fills the larger side.
 
Wow! Really?

Are you measuring the longest dimension of the eye or across the eye in the shorter dimension? The shorter dimension should govern. That's what the wedge secures.

That axe was definitely designed to be hung in the orientation pictured. If the top is smaller then hope that it at least has an hourglass shape and can retain a haft.
 
The eye is bigger across the length and the width. I realize it's not going to hold as good as a normal eye but what do u guys think if I still hung it?
 
Hang it and hope for the best. If it has a decent hour glass shape it should still hold. Be sure to leave the haft protruding 1/4" through the eye.
 
Yeah it can't hurt to hang it, may waste a handle and if be careful using it till you're sure it won't slip out but worth a shot. Does it have a makers mark on it? It looks like a quality head but could have been someone trying their hand at making an axe head but got the eye sizes wrong. If it has a makers mark then idk cause it seems like that wouldn't be possible to happen using a mold so it seems like it'd have to be hand forged but I'm not an expert so could be wrong.
 
With a carbide burr in a Dremel tool (or even via using a round file) if you can thoroughly chamfer the eye all around at the front, then the protruding (as Square_Peg suggested) wedged handle will have some purchase against flying off were it to loosen. Might as well give it a shot.
 
Square_peg said:
That's a good suggestion, 300Six. And those carbide burrs also come with 1/4" shanks that are ready to chuck up in any cordless drill. Useful for many things. I've used many sizes and styles but I think the best all around useful burr is a 3/8" ball nose. Will cut metal up to 65 HRC.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMO-Double-...5&sr=8-1&keywords=carbide+burr+3/8"+ball+nose
Click to expand...

Numerous old axe heads I've come across have been severely pounded on with hammers (etc) during rehafting which has caused deformed eyes right at the opening. This is a version of mushrooming but in reverse because the action is inward. A carbide burr in a drill or dremel tool does wonders to restore the original eye shape.
In the same token a poorly created factory expansion of an eye can (conceivably) be corrected after-the-fact via a grinding tool or burr. Well worth the effort, to consider doing something along this line, if the implement is a 'keeper'.
 
I noticed my marbles no.6 pocket axe has a smaller opening at the top to. And both axes don't really look like they would have enough material around the edges for me to make the eye the original size if they where deformed at all.
 
Does the eye at least have an hourglass shape to it? Is the top wider than the center?
 
Well that sucks. I would make sure the top of the eye has no burrs, maybe even chamfer it a bit with a rat tail file. Then leave the haft proud by a strong 1/4". You'll have to rely on the protruding haft to keep this one on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top