Axe handle finishing

J

jimmyjwazup

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Sep 25, 2015
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Hello all, I'm currently putting boiled linseed oil on my new handle, and looking for a couple answers to some questions I have. I came across some people/posts in my searches of blo/turp being used over just blo. Is there any difference in feel doing this? Also, came across a recipe for tin cloth using blo/turp/beeswax and am debating on using that as a final coat for protection and also a bit of grip to the handle.

Another question I have is: there are warnings to keep blo away from flame, is this still an issue for the handle after it has cured? No, im not planning on putting the handle in a raging fire, but am debating scorching/singeing the bottom of my handles to bring out the grain more. I'm thinking about only doing part, like how the best made handles are painted. I'm just curious if it's too late or not. Thanks in advance for any advice, I'll post pictures of examples of what im thinking about.
Singed wood
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I don't personally singe the wood, but some do and like the look. I don't mind the look either, I just don't want to bother with it. If you are looking for opinions, I would say that I prefer the whole handle singed or not at all. The partial look works with paint, but at least for me the partial singe doesn't. All or nothing for me. BTW, the BLO is only a fire danger while it is curing. Still, a wood handle is flammable with or without BLO if to close to a flame so....

As for finishes, I mostly use what you are describing as a final finish. I put a couple coats of BLO then a paste that I mix of BLO/turp/beeswax. I usually heat it before application to melt it into the wood, then rub hard with a cloth after it cools/hardens. I really like the feel in the hand. As for mixing turp with BLO for those coats, I guess the idea is that it will soak in deeper, but I never do that. BLO soaks in well enough anyway. The great thing about doing things this way is that it is time tested and the ingredients are very inexpensive. This is my usual method, but I will soon be experimenting with stains/dyes before finishing and also various oil/wax finishes. I will post results.
 
So from doing this it seems as if the torch boiled the oil away before it would singe the handle, so it would be better to do this prior to any application, but it is doable. The darker spots happened when I stayed in a general area too long. It seemed better to bounce between areas.I used a pencil torch to do this.
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I like regular linseed oil, as it is pure and has no other additives in it like BLO does.

As for handles and what to put on them, its really a total matter of preference to the owner, as their are a ton of options out there, none of which I would say are vastly superior to the others, so its really about what you like and taste.

Linseed oil, boiled linseed, turp, beeswax, WD40, tung, combos, on and on. Its really interesting to see what people come up with.

I have dabbled with some here and there, but I just keep it simple and use regular pure linseed oil. That way I coat the head and handle with one product. It does take longer to fully dry than BLO, and can get sticky if you apply too much. Also, make sure you dont leave the rags in a pile, as they can and have combusted. Wash them, burn them, whatever after you are done with them. On my regular user axes, I will hit with WD40 for temporary protection. Easy to spray on, and works.

Keep the combos coming.
 
Jimmy,

I sincerely hope this doesn't come across as ill-meaning but the split handle treatment...well, it's not much to look at. Either mildly torch the length of the handle or leave well enough alone.

The zebra affect just plain looks odd...
 
mako20ft said:
Jimmy,

I sincerely hope this doesn't come across as ill-meaning but the split handle treatment...well, it's not much to look at. Either mildly torch the length of the handle or leave well enough alone.

The zebra affect just plain looks odd...
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After looking at it, I think I'm going to do it all the way. I figured I'd try just the bottom to test it out and if I really didn't care for it, I could sand it off. I'm not sure what you mean by zebra effect, but the torching was to bring out the grain that the wood naturally has
 
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I have some Tung oils from Milk Paint I'll be trying out soon. I got it for my furniture refinishing projects but I'll try it on some knife and tool handles also. BLO is fine too. But where's the fun if you use the same thing all the time. I tried the torch thing a long time ago. Didn't sit well with me. Maybe I should give it another try. Just for fun.
 
I just like that it brings the grain out, although I've seen a couple finishes with the pine tar that look nice too. I did end up with quite a few hot spots, hard to see that small flame in daylight. I may try the heat gun , which should reduce that issue
 
I have had some nice successes with Danish Oil and a product I got at our local boutique knife shop. It is meant for cutting boards and wooden bowls, etc. Its a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. It really soaks in nicely and I can easily get 3-4 coats on a haft before it stops absorbing.
 
Its an interesting look for sure - please post up if you find a method that works without the hot spots (and setting the handle on fire:D)
 
Not an update on the handle, but my first time doing anything with leather.
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Only stamped so far, still gotta glue the welt, sew and add the strap and buckle.
 
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