Axe head question

C

cckw

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May 24, 2008
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On modern axes (felling Axe, etc) is the cutting edge different steel the the rest of the head? Please share all you know on this. It is a new curiosity for me. I picked up a nice old axe with rotted handle although I haven't done anything with it yet it has reignited my childhood interest in axes.

Also, on an axe with the two types of steel, how far back does the cutting steel go? Just wondering about those that are abused on a grinder, can you grind away the cutting steel?
 
That's really going to depend on the manufacturer or maker. Generally, axes with high carbon bits welded into softer steels are reserved to custom-made stuff while most manufactured heads are deferentially heat treated single-steels. From a business standpoint, the cost of labor generally far exceeds the cost of materials, so the latter is going to be cheaper and more suited for manufacture.

In either case, you still run the risk of grinding back to softer steel, but most axes are made with enough of the edge hardened to withstand a lifetime or more of regular sharpening. Really, an axe only needs to be re-profiled once (unless it's like a GB and properly profiled out of the factory) and that's the only time you'll ever need to do a lot of metal removal..
 
Curious, my axe head is made from high-carbon White Steel. Since the steel itself is hard anyway do you think it has been differentially heat treated? I don't think it has as I cannot see a hamon.
 
somber said:
Curious, my axe head is made from high-carbon White Steel. Since the steel itself is hard anyway do you think it has been differentially heat treated? I don't think it has as I cannot see a hamon.
Click to expand...

I guess I should fix my previous statement - a lot of cheaper axes are just heat treated to mid 40s - low 50s HRC all throughout and at that hardness, you don't need a deferential heat treating to keep the steel tough and impact resistant. When you get an axe with an edge of about 55+ HRC, then you'll generally start seeing deferential heat treats.

A hamon isn't always indicative of a deferential heat treat and in fact, you tend to still need to etch most deferentially heat treated blades/axes to bring out the hamon line. Most high end axes are generally deferentially heat treated though, and if it's white steel (a japanese axe?), it's most likely deferentially heat treated. If you're REALLY curious, you can always take a file and run that across the edge and the poll. If it digs in at the poll but skids a bit more at the edge, then it's deferentially heat treated.
 
killa_concept said:
A hamon isn't always indicative of a deferential heat treat and in fact, you tend to still need to etch most deferentially heat treated blades/axes to bring out the hamon line. Most high end axes are generally deferentially heat treated though, and if it's white steel (a japanese axe?), it's most likely deferentially heat treated. If you're REALLY curious, you can always take a file and run that across the edge and the poll. If it digs in at the poll but skids a bit more at the edge, then it's deferentially heat treated.
Click to expand...

I'll have to try the file. I'm curious, now. I'm not sure of the hRC, maybe I'll have to get some Rockwell files to test it out. Thanks for the info on the hamon, too, by the way. I didn't know that the line doesn't always show up.

It is a Japanese axe.
 
Can you tell more on what brands or price point to expect the deferential hardening? Are old axes more likely to be of higher quality?
 
killa concept gave a great answer. It’s right on the money. Since most axes today are drop forged, it comes out to be cheaper to use higher quality steel in the whole head that to use iron in part of the head and then have to weld a bit. You can still see that in custom made axes. You can take a look at this video for an example.

Most known axe manufacturers (Snow & Nealley, Council Tool, Wetterlings, Gransofrs Bruks, Husqvarna, Hults Bruk) will use a differentially tempered bit on their axes. It is only with the hardware store ones that you will see the softer bits. The bit is usually tempered to about ½ to 1 inch back.

http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/
 
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