Axe oil.

JM2

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Mar 11, 2013
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With my GB hatchet came a book. It says oil the axe all over periodically. I assume it doesn’t really matter what kind of oil as long as ya use something.

On an old axe, how do folks get the rust off while maintaining that brown patina?
 
Wire cup brush on a 4-1/2” angle grinder is great for rust removal. Wear eye, ear and respiratory protection. Don’t bear down hard on a wire wheel or wire cup or they will throw wires. Just give it time to do its work. Brass wire leaves a bit more patina if you can find one for a reasonable price.
 
linseed oil LO is in fact acidic unlike many others so I choose not to use a thing with acidic in it On iron thinking, what would be the long term cumulative effect of that? Not good I imagine. I've avoided using in on tools going instead for the non-acidic, camella oil. Put on with a simple applicator made from a rolled up piece of cotton stuffed in a bamboo for easy regular use .
Still, axes I don't obsess over in that way since the best practice for keeping the surfaces in good condition is to use them.
 
Interesting replies.

Well, acidic isn’t the only concern, a strong alkaline will eat up metal too.

I know BLO has been used for gunstocks for quite a while and it doesn’t eat up the guns receiver or barrel that touches it. So my guess is that it is not acidic enough to cause an issue.

I have some antidotal evidence. I have a shovel that I refurbished and has been coated with BLO. Both the wood and metal. It turned out real nice and I got some serious protection of the wood. I did this I’d say about 12 years ago now.
 
I collected anvils for a spell, and rescued several from barns, outside, and even from the hatchback of an old Toyota.

My approach at removing surface rust, grime, dirt, and pigeon / chicken remnants is precisely as S Square_peg prescribed. Wire cup on a variable-speed angle grinder, usually on the lowest speed.

Neglected anvils usually require a bath first, which I’ve simply done with dish soap, an automotive wheel brush, bucket, and hose. Once it’s dry, then the angle grinder / wheel work begins. It’s fairly easy to see when you’ve done enough (read, rust is gone, and nice black patina remains).

I have always just finished them in new motor oil - whatever partial quart I saw on the shelf first 10w-30, etc. I pour a ‘bead’ on, then evenly spread it with a shop rag. I leave it looking ‘wet’, but not ‘juicy’, if that makes sense. Some have remained untouched for years, and still look great. In a complicated world, I try to keep it simple. :)
 
I collected anvils for a spell, and rescued several from barns, outside, and even from the hatchback of an old Toyota.

My approach at removing surface rust, grime, dirt, and pigeon / chicken remnants is precisely as S Square_peg prescribed. Wire cup on a variable-speed angle grinder, usually on the lowest speed.

Neglected anvils usually require a bath first, which I’ve simply done with dish soap, an automotive wheel brush, bucket, and hose. Once it’s dry, then the angle grinder / wheel work begins. It’s fairly easy to see when you’ve done enough (read, rust is gone, and nice black patina remains).

I have always just finished them in new motor oil - whatever partial quart I saw on the shelf first 10w-30, etc. I pour a ‘bead’ on, then evenly spread it with a shop rag. I leave it looking ‘wet’, but not ‘juicy’, if that makes sense. Some have remained untouched for years, and still look great. In a complicated world, I try to keep it simple. :)
That’s awesome man. Thanks for sharing. Well, I don’t suppose you have a favorite anvil, and maybe a few pics. You know.... for visual purposes.
 
That’s awesome man. Thanks for sharing. Well, I don’t suppose you have a favorite anvil, and maybe a few pics. You know.... for visual purposes.
No good pics, sorry. They are in storage at this point.

As far as a favorite anvil, mine is the large Swede that I started on - less due to the anvil itself, and more because of who taught me. He passed some years ago, and I still miss him greatly.
 
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