Axe question

E

Erasmus

Joined
Jul 15, 2002
Messages
1,449
I am in the market for a new hatchet. My current axe is a Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe. It is excellent, and I like it a lot. Fits my hand well, is easy to sharpen on a Tri-Angle sharpmaker, and has penetration and chopping power all out of proportion to its size.

But, I'm a backpacker. I'm always looking for a lighter option to get the job done. I'd love to bring the SFA backpacking, and have, but I keep wondering about smaller, lighter hatchets. I've seen pics of the Gransfors Mini. Looks intriguing.

But the question comes up, how light is too light in an axe?

I want the tool to be light enough for high portability, but still heavy enough for acceptable chopping. What is "acceptable chopping"? Must be able to :

-cut through branchs up to 3" or 4" in diameter,
-in a reasonable amount of time,
-so that I can have a small campfire for cooking, warmth and illumination,
-In the Sierras of California, where the trees I've seen are Oak(a minority, but present) and various conifers.

-During hunting season, it would also be called upon to help process game.

The Mini sounds appealing, but I haven't got the $100 for one. Doesn't Wetterling make something similar, for a lot less?

I've been pondering this for a long time, but not having one in my hands has stymied me. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

CHEERS

---------------
On the other hand, maybe you're thinking I should just shut up and carry the SFA. This has a lot of merit. Except, that the kinds of sticks and twigs I cut for small fires, the SFA is definite overkill on.

Oh, and saws are right out. I can't sharpen 'em, and like axes of all kinds too much.

Another condition is, any handle must be wood. I can't stand plastic Fiskars handles.

Thanks again, for your patience.
 
The Wildlife is a step down from the SFA and handles 3-4" wood very well. It chews through spruce 2x3's in seconds. There have been comparisons of the mini's in the axe sub-forum.

-Cliff
 
Wetterlings makes no version like the mini

I have nearly every Gransfors... (It's an Illness) The mini is cute but far less capable than the Wildlife Hatchet (IMO). There is a Wetterling much like the Wildlife Hatchet and mine is very good..the equal of the Gransfors in all but looks and 20 minutes of sharpening time.

The very small hatchetslike the GB mini or Vaughan lack the mass to chop well and need to be batonned to split... so why not use a much safer knife with the baton?
 
I'm no expert but have you considered a large knife like the Becker 9 or a Kuhkri, it has chopping power like a small axe and has the versatility of a knife and won't "chop" your budget. The BK9 can fit in your backpack and does not weigh a lot if space and weight is what you want to save.

Also fellow forumite Cliff Stamp has tested several axes, you might want to read some of the reviews:

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/reviews.html
 
My expensive suggestion:

The Roselli R860 ~$80.00

1RP-R851.jpg


Mostly an axe, partly an ulu and hammer. Its larger brother is the best portable (backpacking) axe I have ever had.

http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=71
 
This is an argument I often have with myself... axe, hatchet, machete, tomahawk or big knife? I still don't know. The trouble is each tool is best suited to a certain range of jobs. I've carried all of them on different occasions.

If my life depends on having a warm fire, then a decent axe is the thing. Maybe not a full-sized heavy axe head...you can do an awful lot with a half-axe or "boys" axe.

If there is plenty of dead wood around, then maybe no axe is necessary.

I have carried hatchets etc with me, but have sometimes never used them.

If a hatchet or tomahawk is being considered as a weapon option, then I'd suggest that they aren't as good as a spear or a knife. I used a tomahawk to kill a goat recently. The 'hawk sunk into its skull with surprising ease, but I had a hard job pulling it back out because of the "hook" shape on the bottom of the blade. A tomahawk might feel comforting to hold for a short time when being approached by a bear, but it would be very difficult to use compared to a sharp handy spear (which you might make by fastening a knife to a stick). (I must add that this is very hypothetical for me because we don't have bears in my country).

A tomahawk with a tapered handle is a good thing to have if you have to replace the handle. It is comparatively easy to whittle and fit a new one compared to the handle on a conventional modern axe or hatchet.

I suppose if I had to pick just one blade to take into the woods it would be a light hatchet with a longish handle. There are some beautiful looking hatchets available and I will be interested to see what you get.
 
Dude, suck it up and stay with the SFA, the weight difference vastly out weighs the performance of the mini vs the SFA. Hell, I take a limbing axe with me (26" shaft)
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Boats, what type of wood are you cutting and what axes have you compared that to?

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Cliff--

I am well aware of your review of my axe choice. Previously, I have lugged everything from a GB SFA, to a no-name small double bit with different professional grinds on it, to some Fiskars with a lightweight fiberglass handle.

I have chopped up some poplar, some fallen Pacific yew, hemlock, and various pines. In one respect you are right--it's not the world's most efficient chopper on anything soft and lacking knots. Its is still a tremendous all around axe choice, especially since the lower weight won't make you think about leaving it behind.

My Roselli is a tremendously easy carry. Also, you tell me something--have you ever quartered an elk with a GB?

The Roselli kicks major tail on bone and other stubborn field dressing jobs, which notably, neither your review, or the one I linked, have ever bothered with.

Don't you ever review knives and axes on game?;) :D

I happen to believe that hunting is an essential wilderness and survival skill that is not discussed frequently enough when taking about edged tools in this subforum.

If you want a cabin builder, don't get the Roselli. If you want something that will give you more options than most axes without breaking your back with its weight, check one out if you can.
 
I guess we're chopping the same kind of oaks since I also live in California. I have a Wetterling's small hunter's axe, don't remember the exact name and haven't used it alot yet. I also have a Bear Mountain Ranier hawk, too expensive, grind too obtuse and it is heavy but well made. The Ranier Scout may be better.

I like both the Cold Steel Trail Hawk and Rifleman's hawk. Cheap and both take a good edge. They are fun to throw, someday I may even make one stick. The bits/blades are very thin so don't think of them as a splitting maul but you won't split a piece of oak much longer that a foot and 4" in diameter without some serious axe weight.

I have a BK9 but I don't think much of it and I have used the heck out of it. Very little finish remaining. Good for killing zombies and maybe for the military but I'll take any axe over it any day.
 
Boats said:
it's not the world's most efficient chopper on anything soft and lacking knots.
Click to expand...

It is actually a soft wood axe, optomized for clear wood without knots. Cook describes the differences between hard/soft wood profiles in the axe book, many invert them typically assuming heavy profiles are needed for hard woods when in fact the opposite is true.

The Roselli does its best compared to axes like the Bruks/Wetterling on *very* soft wood like clear pine and especially alder because penetration isn't an issue on these woods and you want a very heavy profile to reduce wedging and give high fluidity.

With the stock edges the Wetterling/Bruks can get damaged on very hard knots and bone, especially if not done with optimal technique but to prevent this just requires an application of a secondary bevel. There is no need to have the entire primary grind cut with no relief.

Don't you ever review knives and axes on game?
Click to expand...

I don't hunt such, mainly fish. My immediate and extended family is full of such individuals though, and I give them the knives on occasion as well send out knives on pass arounds and such. In general it doesn't tend to contradict what I would expect from cutting meats in the kitchen and they use the same knives for both tasks as well.

None of them would use said axe nor any axe for that matter for such work as they don't chop through bones and just go through the joints. Saws were used to actually cut the meat into roasts and such but lately almost everyone has that done professionally. I have chopped up bone on occasion, caribou and seal specifically, but it doesn't take a profile greater than a splitting axe to cut that well. Nor in general have I ever seen anyone promote such a profile would be ideal for working on large game.


-Cliff
 
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