Axe Repair Question (Big old chip / uneven blade)

C

Crazyotter

Joined
Jun 26, 2010
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334
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So I found this old Snow and Neally 3/12 standard head. Poll was a bit funny, and it had a good chip in the toe of the bit (see photo, axe head is upside down). Fortunately, the price was way to good to pass up. 5 dollars if I recall. Unfortunately, I have no clue what to do with it now. Do I leave the chip in the blade and work around it? The other problem is that the edge is really screwy, alot further back on the toe than the heel. I'm kind of stumped on what to do with it. Especially with the profile. Anyone have any advice? Thanks.

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Given that the toe and heel flare up, you could grind the toe (the side ground farther back) down in the same direction that the eye runs, if that makes sense. Then you could just true the edge up a bit more and she'd be good to go. I love S&N's, good axes.
 
It looks to me like it's gotten a lot of use and a lot of sharpening. I've seen quite a few old, overly sharpened bits with toes that are shorter than the heels.

Looking at the distance from the bit edge to the eye, it's quite a bit shorter than it would have been when it was new, another sign that it's been sharpened quite a bit. This results in some pretty steep edge angles (if I'm looking at your photo correctly). If so, I'd relegate it to splitting duty if it's of sufficient weight, but it may not make the best chopper. But for 5 bucks, it's hard to pass up.
 
By the way, that profile is what all the S&N axes and Maine patterns had. It it shaped like a wedge, but it is not a splitting axe. S&N axes also had very short bits from the factory.

I drew this up for you pertaining to what I would do it it. Of course, if it is just TOO overwhelming you could mail it to me ;)

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I thought what Nickzdon said, but have no special knowledge of S&N, so assume Gpig is right on it not being as bad as it appears.

I have done a few bad ones, I enjoy it. I generally just start working on it and let it evolve. If I were doing this one I expect it would turn out similar to what G-pig drew.
 
I'll defer to Gpig. I'm only familiar with the more recent S&N. Any ideas on when this head dates from? I'd also be curious to know what the weight is, if it differs from 3 1/2, it could tell you how much use it's seen and how much it's been sharpened down (which maybe not much from what it sounds like).
 
Just did some quick googling around and fond this blog post with some great pics of a similar S&N, and Gpig's right, they are a lot shorter and 'wedgier' than I expected.
 
Any S&N axe that is stamped is pre-1965 as far as I know. After that they stopped stamping and used paper labels. They were still good axes, probably until the middle to late 90's when the quality went down a bit. Also, I do believe the later ones had much weaker stamps than the older ones did. This one has a good strong stamp it seems.
 
G pig, thank you for the photo and explanation. I'll start there for repairs, and I'll see what happens. And I'm afraid I don't have a scale lying around, sorry. Also, I don't know much about markings, but I know my year old Snow and Neally kindling axe has a S N on the underside of the poll, etched into the metal.
 
Crazyotter said:
G pig, thank you for the photo and explanation. I'll start there for repairs, and I'll see what happens. And I'm afraid I don't have a scale lying around, sorry. Also, I don't know much about markings, but I know my year old Snow and Neally kindling axe has a S N on the underside of the poll, etched into the metal.
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Huh. Wasn't aware that they started stamping again. That must be recent because I have seen a couple with the paper label and nothing else stamped. I do think they continued to stamp the weight on the heads post-1960's. I have a DB that I think is a S&N and it has the weight, but nothing else stamped on it.
 
I had an old beat up flint edge that was about 25% as bad as yours, and that took me longer than I care to remember to properly sharpen by hand.
 
Ok, I'll bite. I understand convexing the edge, starting with files, working up through sand paper grits, eventually to a strop for a razor sharp axe. But beyond that, what defines properly sharpened? I know I have a few axes that should be good choppers, especially based on the brands, that I can't even use because they just don't take a "bite" in the wood. Something about the profile and bevels. Can anyone help me understand this?
 
Crazyotter said:
Ok, I'll bite. I understand convexing the edge, starting with files, working up through sand paper grits, eventually to a strop for a razor sharp axe. But beyond that, what defines properly sharpened? I know I have a few axes that should be good choppers, especially based on the brands, that I can't even use because they just don't take a "bite" in the wood. Something about the profile and bevels. Can anyone help me understand this?
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I wonder if it's the axes or if it's your chopping technique? Why don't you post up a profile pick of one the axes that you're disappointed in and some of the experts here will surely help you out!

Matt

EDIT: Don't take that the wrong way, I'm just thinking out loud...or in print...
 
Nah, thats fine. I'm relatively new to axes, been learning for a few years now, but I have a ways to go.

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This is a hatchet of mine that I'm still working on, a Walters Black Diamond. Its about the same size as my S and N Kindling Axe, just a wee bit heavier. That said, it sucks. I think its to thick is the problem. Hard to tell with the way its made, but hopefully someone can figure this out.
 
Hatchets need to be sharp more so than axes, this one here, doesn't look that sharp, but almost more like a maul.
 
Not trying to be nit-picky, but it may be sharp. You can make a spitting maul shaving sharp. What lies beyond the edge may be the issue. Looks pretty thick to me!

Matt
 
Regarding your S&N Kindling axe that you mentioned-does it suck too? Aren't a lot of kindling axes designed a little like a maul, since they are for splitting kindling?????
 
Ok, I'll try reprofiling the axe. Definitely agree on the fact its like a splitting maul. As far as the S and N Kindling Axe, it doesn't suck at all despite being meant for splitting (which your right about). I've honestly never split wood with it, I use it up at my families camp lot to clear wood. Dead or half dead birchs and pine like soft woods. Takes a nice bite, though not as good as a true chopping axe. Either way, its my axe of choice right now and the one in my truck, maybe its because I'm so used to it but. It does have some flaws though fyi.
 
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