Axe Sharpening and General Info

B

beezaur

Joined
Jul 31, 2002
Messages
430
Hi Guys,

I was out chopping some limbs off a downed tree, and was reminded that my knowledge of these tools is lacking. I have always used axes in my fire department, but generally used a chain saw for work. It is evident that an axe set up to do wood chopping is set up quite differently from a fire department axe, which has to serve as a forcible entry tool and endure things like nails.

To start, what is the best way to sharpen a working axe? What tools and methods are best? Angled edge or cuved edge?

I will most likely be replacing the cheapo model I picked up for the job. The steel is junk and it seems to transmit an abnormal amount of vibration to my hands. Can anyone tell me what to look for in a good full-sized axe?

Thanks for any help.

Scott
 
Yep, one word. Fiskars of Finland. They also own Gerber.

Check home depot. They had the pro chopping model on sale a while back for half price, about 15-20 bucks (they seem to do this regularly). Regular price is thirty something or so depending upon where you're at. Damn steal. Great axe, great steel. Mine will shave the hair off your arm. And will wear a tree or a log out in no time. Will do a number on building materials as well if necessary. Every homeowner should have one. Apartment dwellers too.

145087_7858.jpg


The hatchet is just as useful for smaller work.

The construction of these axes is similar to old style cast copper axes of the post ice age (the iceman). But instead of using a hardwood shaft, sinew, and cast copper, it uses a permanently attached fiberglass reinforced nylon handle, and a medium carbon differentially hardened forged steel head. That seems almost impervious to damage (alot of meat behind the edge). This is no knife trying to be an axe or vice versa. But will still shave, and will skin game redily. This is the real deal made for real work, day in, day out.

Guarantee is simple. You loosen the head, they replace it (I've never seen one loosen, and i've beaten the living heck out of my hatchet and throw it regularly). The fiberglass reinforced nylon shafts are high pressure molded around the axe head. Comes with a simple polymer sheath that covers the head and edge. The Gerber models have more elaborate sheaths for backpacking, hunting, etc. They are also significantly more expensive. Same construction, same factory in Finland, different color.

http://www.fiskars.com/US/Garden/Product+Detail?contentId=85474

I sharpen mine on my sharpmaker if very dull, but normally use a fiskars roll sharp to keep it hair splitting sharp. This sharpener is about $6 and is very good at keeping machetes and rough knives sharp. It uses a couple of ceramic wheels at 30 degrees, removes very little metal and realigns the edge after use nicely.

Actually for most routine and smaller work, I much prefer the axe to a chain saw. Much less maintenance required. And can be easier in certain situations.
 
Thanks guys. Alex, that article is great.

I have the teeny Gerber backpacking "axe." That thing is incredible. Is the Fiskars really adequate for regular work? Seems a little short and light.

Scott
 
beezaur said:
I have the teeny Gerber backpacking "axe." That thing is incredible. Is the Fiskars really adequate for regular work? Seems a little short and light.

Scott
Click to expand...

Well don't take my word for it.

Go to home depot, spend 20-30 bucks and test if yourself.

I'm very happy with mine.

Did I mention I live in a log house out in the woods? Much of the work, including the landscaping I did myself. And continue to do so. Fiskars tools as a whole are some of the best and most durable I've had the pleasure of using.

And if in a survival situation I would consider myself well equipped as far as edge tools are concerned with either of my fiskars axes.
 
No doubt: convex edge even for a small camping axe. I use a Fiskars 500. Nice tool for a walker but the angled edge (30°) chips easily.

dantzk.
 
We have an Axe and Tomahawk discussion group here that offers more information than the average person can stomach. Definitely check it out for detailed information on care, cleaning, and sharpening your axe based on what type of axe it is.
 
Watchful said:
We have an Axe and Tomahawk discussion group here that offers more information than the average person can stomach. Definitely check it out for detailed information on care, cleaning, and sharpening your axe based on what type of axe it is.
Click to expand...

Oops! Missed that.

I purchased a couple of the Fiskars, a 14" and a 28". So far they seem to work extremely well.

Scott
 
Watchful,

Yes, I found the forum, thank you. I am happily sifting through search results now :)

Scott
 
dantzk8 said:
No doubt: convex edge even for a small camping axe. I use a Fiskars 500. Nice tool for a walker but the angled edge (30°) chips easily.

dantzk.
Click to expand...

Chips easily? What are you striking with it?

I've never chipped any of mine, even with heavy use on the hardest hardwoods and frequent trips into the dirt with my 14" hatchet which I throw regularly.

And except for an occassional trip through the fiskars roll sharp to realign the edge I find I rarely need to do any sharpening at all.

One should always use a good sharpener/aligner on axes, and sharpen at a minimum.

I think the biggest mistake many make with axes particularly is failing to maintain the factory double bevel and thinning the secondary bevel excessively with files etc... The fiskars roll sharp is an ideal tool for maintaining the edge on these axes. It also works very well for machetes and hard use knives, etc.
 
IntheWoods,

Hornbeam, sometimes frozen, often knotty. I can compare my Fiskars 500 to 2 bigger convex edge axes i use hard to chop and split my fire wood. Maybe i'm partial: i'm a convex edge partisan and put it on every blade even on a sub 3" folder!
Fiskars axes are good by all aspects except IMO about the angled factory edge.

dantzk.
 
I forgot a point: you are right about thinning the secondary bevel. It's a mistake.

dantzk.
 
You wont get any argument from me on that point.

I'm convinced a better bevel could be put on the Fiskars axe by an expert in such matters (which I'm not). Much like any factory implement.

Although I'm not quite sophisticated enough to rework the bevel, nor would I try. I'd leave that to you guys are are skilled in this area.

I find the factory edge and Fiskars sharpener to be an ideal combination for my needs, and simple to maintain.

Now if I was living in 16th century Europe planning a trip to the new world, I might reconsider and consult an expert in such matters. Oh, that's right the technology to make the Fiskars axe didn't exist in those times.

I'd still get my axe from Finland. After all, one thing the Fins clearly understand. How to stay warm. And for centuries this had required chopping lots and lots of wood. :)
 
One of the questions of beezaur was "Angled or curved edge?". I answered on that particular point. You still get your axe from Finland? I understand you, i did the same choice. I just say Fiskars axes can be increased by a convex edge. It's not so hard to do, no need to be an expert. Fiskars sharpener are certainely good but get a new skill by free hand sharpening is not a loose of time.
I wish you to enjoy it.

dantzk
 
I sharpen mine on the slack belt of my grinder. I thinned the edge down on my Knives of Alaska Hunters Hatchet and now it chops better. Some of the less expensive hatchets at the hardware stores, have too thick of an edge.
Scott
 
Heck if I had your expertise Razorback I would most probably rework every bevel I have.

My experience is I often do more harm than good.

And am wary about thinning out the secondary bevel on such axes, due to edge durability concerns. I find the factory edge on the Fiskars is very good out of the box (will shave hair with a narrow primary bevel), and using the Fiskars roll sharp keeps it this way without removing significant metal.

Although I did recently sharpen the false edge on a Kabar heavy bowie, with some hi alumina sandpaper and my random orbital sander.

I'm rather pleased with the results. This is clearly twice the knife with an appropriately sharpened false edge. I understand why Kabar doesn't provide them this way to begin with. It is a fearsome cutting combination.

And while cleaning the hair poppin' sharp primary edge with lighter fluid and a rag I inadvertantly cut completely through the rag and sliced my finger. A small cut, but one that sends shivers up your spine just thinking about what's possible.

1085 carbon steel. I'm here to tell you, absolutely nothing wrong with it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top