Axe sharpening

T

tommytman

Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
303
Hello,
Anyone an expert on axe sharpening. I've got one axe that needs reprofile and I'm having trouble. I bought new 'axe' files and they seem to have trouble cutting the metal. They just skate across the bit. The new files cut for a very small amount of time and then just stopped cutting.
What am I doing wrong?
 
Very often vintage axes are coated in black iron oxides, which are harder than files are. Use a sharpening stone to expose some bright, fresh steel, and then try the file on that. Some vintage axes truly are so hard in the bit that all but the highest quality files are too soft to cut them, but many of the axes supposedly too hard to file are actually just covered in that black oxide and once through that thin skin the file bites fine.
 
The metal is rust free. It’s shiny and files skate on it. I tried using a Norton SiC corse scythe stone.
the SiC stone seems to work but it wears down fast and does not stay flat; this makes it tough to generate a precise bevel. I also bought new files
 
I know there is a diamond puck out there. A puck isn't my first choice for a reprofile, but it should certainly get you started.
I expect Heavy Handed to be along. He knows more about axe sharpening than I ever will. Listen to what he has to say.
 
A single cut coarse bastard file USA made should cut it after the stone. I have used a Norton coarse SiC grit stone to help in setting the bevel. Then finish it off with the India stone. Keep at it as it could be a thick edge. DM
 
Worst case scenario, you can use something like one of these "utility file" stones to do the job, but I'd take an axe that was truly that hard to a belt grinder instead.

s-l640.jpg
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Worst case scenario, you can use something like one of these "utility file" stones to do the job, but I'd take an axe that was truly that hard to a belt grinder instead.

s-l640.jpg
Click to expand...
I’m going to try that Norton utility file. I’d use a belt sander but I don’t have one. Is there a good one that is in the 150$ range? I hope it’s worth it, sharpening an old 10$ axe and spending 4x that on files ....lol
 
You might check out the ol' Harbor Freight 1x30 and get some appropriately coarse belts (like, 40 grit) from somewhere like TruGrit. It's a little underpowered for what's ideal but a lot faster than by hand.
 
Not sure which one you're talking about getting bad reviews. This is the one I'm talking about. Every now and then you do get a lemon, but HF customer service takes care of ya' when that happens. The Grizzly is probably a decent enough machine, but if jumping for a "nice" 1-inch belt sander I like the Kalamazoo 1x42.
 
Wow I spent 1 hour grinding with a xcourse SiC and barely touched this bevel. The SiC is getting worn a heck of a lot more than the steel.
Does anyone offer an axe grind service? I’m never going to get this one done by hand
 
They make metal cutting belts for hand-held belt grinder that are pretty cheap and will rough the edge out very rapidly - I went this route with my 3x21 grinder for years before buying a proper bench grinder. These belts can also be cut and glued to a board for manually reshaping them.

If it doesn't need to be reshaped just do it on a largish bench stone or very coarse wet/dry - start with 80 or 120 grit.
Pucks are only for touchups of a fairly sharp axe.

I rehung an older Mann hatchet head (not the one in the video) and the bit was so high RC I couldn't get any of my files to do more than burnish it. They can be done on any manufactured abrasive bench stone as even the harder ones are still (normally) carbon steel. You can brace the head on your knee and bring the stone to it, or set it right on a bench stone and sharpen per the video. This is demo'd with one of my old Washboards but any stone can be used the same way, or wet/dry over steel or a brick. Filework ends about 5 minutes in.


It can take a minute on larger axes etc, but still doable. Just yesterday I reset and sharpened my Rinaldi Boy's axe the same way. You might have to brace one hand further down the handle depending how much support it needs.
 
I once had an ax that was so hard that files would just skate off, so I got rid of it and bought an Iltis. Current ax is a Snow & Nealley 3/4 Hudson's Bay single bit.
 
tommytman said:
Heavy, what type hand held belt grinder is good?
Click to expand...

Pretty sure mine is a 3x21 Craftsman variable speed, is about 25yrs old. Nice thing about it is the flat top. I can flip it upside down and block it in place or clamp in a vice. They're all loud as heck, so a good solution if you have use for one and only need it for occasional metalwork.
 
I did my Hults Bruk 4 lb. ax. In the same manner you show. Using the same size an style file. It cut agressive. Still it took me an hour & 45 mins. - 2 hrs. to remove a lot of cheek for it to penetrate better on limb work. It was a 1950's era ax. Thanks for the video. DM
 
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