axe sharpening

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Nov 25, 2006
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I hope I don't get labeled as a heretic over this thread but discovered something interesting and thought I would throw this out there and see how much flak I would take. I haven't seen anything like this on the forum before, so maybe its common knowledge, and I just don't know any better.
I have a small piece of property south of town out in the country that produces alot of what I call trash trees - mostly mulberries, and I will usually go out every year in the fall to cut them out. I have an Estwing axe that I picked up at one of the big box stores to do this task. I used to use an old Tru Temper double bit axe, but wanted something a little lighter with a steel or fiberglass handle that would be more maintenance free. It is pretty hard steel and really does not take to drawfiling which is how I used to sharpen the double bit.
I got to looking at the edge before I went out this last weekend along with the overall condition of the axe itself. I must not have oiled it last time I was out because it was suffering from alittle bit of rust as well as discoloration and the edge wasn't looking too great. Started with some steelwool to clean it up and then noticed the Dewalt pad sander on the work bench and thought "what the heck". I slapped a 220 grit on it and it cleaned it up nicely. I remember how much time it took to put a decent edge on it with a file last time (I usually touch it up with sandpaper after filing) and thought why not try using the pad sander to put an edge on it? 10 minutes later, I had a very nice convex edge. I just clamped it up in the bench vice and carefully hit it with the sander. The sander does not cut aggressively, so you don't have to worry about taking off too much metal. The foam pad under the hook and eye gives you a pretty nice convex edge. The only thing I would caution is to sand with the edge not against it as you will ruin alot of paper if you don't. I can't shave with it, but it seems to be a good way to put a quick working convex edge on an axe.
 
I've had some really thick axes that would have taken days to do by file and stone.
I found the solution in a large cut-off wheel. I used the side like a disc sander.

Great for shaping the bevel and taking metal off, but still needs a file and stone for final edge.
 
I use the rotary sander on my bench belt sander to do all my hawk blades and get them shaving sharp. I use 330 to 1500 black paper on my disk.

Regards

Robin
 
I hope I don't get labeled as a heretic over this thread but discovered something interesting and thought I would throw this out there and see how much flak I would take.

...it seems to be a good way to put a quick working convex edge on an axe.

No flak here. I'm of the, "Whatever Works For You" school. And you said it works. I'll keep that method in mind. I've tried as many things as I can think of heard about for axe sharpening: puck sharpener; file; sandpaper and mousepad/leather; DMT Diafolds; stropping on leather or hard felt w/ chromium oxide, diamonds, etc.; Sharpmaker...
 
I have both the axes you mention . When in the field cutting I use a Norton coarse crystolon stone to sharpen and it take maybe 15 min. on the Estwing . My True Temper is much harder and takes more like 30 mins.. But I tend to cut longer than I should . DM
 
I have an old bench and disc sander Craftsman with the 6" belt. I use 80 grit, tilt the belt vertical and run the blade over it at the slack underside. It works great, and fast. Then I run it across the buffer on my paperwheels, and I am really sharp again. However, my axe is a cheapy Home Depot one, so I have to do this often enough. I love to split pine with it.
 
I have used the palm sander method on 5-way/7-way painters tools to bring back the scrapper and box cutter options.

For axes, I use belt sanders 2"x72" or 1"x30" then buff the burr off with paper wheels.
 
I have two very large axes, and a belt axe (hatchet) which all respond quite well to my little 1X30 belt sander. :p
 
Minimal power equipment to sharpen with at my house. I have an old 1/3 hp bench grinder that will stop if you look at it wrong, its that underpowered. I suspect that a 1x30 or 2x72 slack belt would really be the way to go as far as getting a nice convex edge, but its been kind of fun figuring this out and being able to use what I've got. I worked on it a bit more last night and got it down to a really nice edge - just took a couple of minutes. I have a few other projects to finish up before I start upgrading my sharpening equipment. Just like a lot of folks here on the forum, I would like to try my hand at putting some knives together. I have been eyeing a Harbor Freight 1x30 to get started - thats a ways off in the future, however.
 
I sharpened my Estwing on my new Belt grinder, Worked out pretty well.. :D

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. A few years ago I was using my Porter Cable random orbital finish sander to sharpen some hatchets, a mechanical puck so to speak. Thanks for reminding me about that. It works and does not seem to heat the metal up much. Takes off the rust from an old hatchet rather well.
 
I think the same way but I though I remember reading some place that an ax will cut better with an edge which isnt hair splitting sharp.

My granddad used to do competition axe cutting for fun, his axes were always hair whittling sharp! I agree, no such thing as too sharp.
 
A slack belt grinder is the ticket for convex edges. Axes take too long on a mouse pad. The "powered" mouse pad sounds like an interesting compromise.
 
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