Axe Sheath Patterns/Ideas?

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Sep 21, 2005
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I've got a Gransfors Scandanavian Forest Axe on the way and I'm going to make a nice leatehr sheath for it. When I got my Gransfors hatchet, I made a sheath for it and simply copied the cheap sheath that came with it. I could do that for the Scandanavian too, but I'd like to try something different. Anyone have any cool axe sheaths or ideas for one? Thanks in advance!

Joe
 
Joe, I don't have anything, but was thinking of making one for my Small Forest model. Would you be willing to post photos of your project to help me with ideas? Thanks,
Tim
 
The sheath I made for my Gransfors hatchet is really just a copy of the sheath that comes with the hatchet, but made in a little more primitive style. I'll post some pics of it.

As of now I'm planning on doing something similar for the Scand Axe as well. I'm hoping to have time to do it this week.
 
Joe and flatlander, here's how I make sheaths for hawks and axes.
Draw an outline of the axe, make it exactly the same size as the blade, I use card stock for my patterns. All my hawk and axe sheaths are welted on the bottom and the edge so the axe sits on the bottom welt. If you make the sheath that way the bottom welt must be the same shape as the wedge shape of the axe head. So, you have to draw the welts around the outside of the axe head pattern, I add about 3/8ths of an inch for the welt outside of the head shape. Then cut the front and back full size including the wely additions. I use 8/9 oz leather for my sheaths and use one layer for the edge welt and make the welt for the bottom a wedge shape to match the thickness of the blade. You can sand the bottom welt to shape on a sander or skive the pieces to make the wedge. Before I glue it together I cut the welts off the paper pattern and mark where they'll be glued to the inside of the leather. Glue it all together with the welts sticking very slightly outside of the sides so you can sand them down after glueing or stitching. I drill my stitch holes on my drill press. I wet the leather and run an edge mark around where the stitches will go. You can use a fork to mark the edge groove at about half the welt width by using one fork tyne against the edge and one marking the groove for stitching. Then use the fork to mark your stitch holes for nice even spacing. I should really do a tutorial on here;-) Hope you understand what i'm saying here ;-)))
Best regards

Robin

Here's a pic of the bottom welt for a heavy wedge shaped hawk so you can see how I layer it. The welt should match the thickness and shape of the bottom of the blade and you'll need to use a wedge when you drill the stitch holes so they go straight through.

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