axe suggestions needed

Maverick299

Maverick299

Joined
Apr 12, 2014
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798
You'll have to please forgive me if I use the wrong terminology, axes are not my area of expertise, so that's why I'm asking here.

I'm looking for suggestions on a "full size" axe. Would that be a felling axe? I currently have a wetterlings forest axe which I really like, but to me it's kind of a between size of a hatchet and axe. It looks like from their website that is the longest axe they make. Can you please suggest a longer axe for me of similar quality and price?

Thanks!
 
A 'full size' axe is typically an axe weighing 3-5 pounds with a 30"-36" haft. Most common now days is a 3.5 pound axe on a 36" haft. This is a good felling and splitting axe and does a decent job bucking - depending your size/height. Lots of variations are available. For example, a 4-5 pound axe will make a better splitter. A 32" haft might make a better bucker. A limbing or trailwork axe should be a bit lighter.

If you tell us your specific uses for your axe we can help steer you in the right direction.
 
Iv got a Wetterlings "american forest axe" which I think is the next size up from the Wetterlings axe you have. I think its the largest wetterlings axe.
I think its got a 3.5lb head and 32" handle. Its a nice axe..well made and has a nice handle with good grain orientation.
I like the finish on the wetterlings axe heads and the steel if very good. Holds an edge well and I can easily make it sharp enough to shave with.

In saying that, its the smallest "full size" axe that I would want.

I personally prefer something a bit heavier, like a 4lb + head weight.

I would have no issues recommending the Wetterlings american forest axe as a really nice off the shelf axe, but if your at all practical or interested in axe history/lore I would suggest picking up an old vintage head and making it your own with a new haft (handle). They just dont make em like they used to. There's something special about an old quality piece of steel that's maintained its strength and integrity over the generations.

Check out the "what did you rehang today" thread for some inspiration.
 
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A felling axe has more to do with the profile grind of the bit. A felling axe is more slender in the cheeks. A splitting axe is fatter in the cheeks. http://thewoodslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Blog-Ax-Grinds.jpg

There are full size felling axes and full size splitting axes and full size limbing axes. "Full size" depends on your size, experience and preference. For some, a full size felling axe would be in the 3.5 to 4 lb range with a 32-36 in haft. Wetterlings makes a 32H felling axe. The head is 3.1lbs, with a profile grind suited to felling, and the haft is 32".

Bernie Weisgerber, who is on this forum occasionally, narrates a very informative video that will answer a lot of questions about axe type and care. In the second part of the video, he shows some great felling axes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22tBYD-HMtA
 
Thanks for the replies. Maybe I don't have the axe I think I do, I need to go measure the length on the handle.

Anyways, I am looking for an axe that will be used mostly for limbing and felling. Splitting is best saved for my pneumatic splitter :)

I'm built like a bulldog so a slightly heavier axe does not bother me to swing. I'm going to go check out the "what did you rehang today" thread for some idea's on what I am looking for.
 
For that work I would reccommend a 3-3.5 pound axe on a 32"-34" haft. If you're over 6' tall lean toward the 34" haft.
 
It doesn't say in your 'info corner' where you're located. Splitting axe should not be confused with felling axe, but you probably already know all about that. Council Tools USA makes various types of axes and their prices are modest in comparison to boutique Euro jobbies. Barco Industries USA is another. Poke through their sites to see if there's anything of interest. Full size Jersey pattern is the one I've always lusted over, but maybe that's because there weren't (and aren't) any in eastern Ontario.
OAL (overall length) axe is described by the initial handle length but 1/2 to 3/4" is usually trimmed off by the time it's hung and finished.
 
Maverick, I am no "axe expert" as I don't know all the great brands and things, but I use an axe nearly every day and own many of them. So, I can speak to the "using" aspects of them...

...I too am built like a bulldog at 5'11" 300lbs, and my input here is to go a little heavier on the head with a bit shorter haft. I just measured my favorite felling axe and it is has 32" haft. The shorter handles for me decreases fatigue, as I (and presumably you) don't ever lack the power or need the extra leverage. I do own some at 36" (though many are mauls), but I don't carry them around because the hadles just are a little too long for me and I feel out of control of them at times.

I will also echo nzedge... Refurbishing an old axe head is not only fun to do but yields an often far-superior product.
 
WilliamCody said:
Maverick, I am no "axe expert" as I don't know all the great brands and things, but I use an axe nearly every day and own many of them. So, I can speak to the "using" aspects of them...

...I too am built like a bulldog at 5'11" 300lbs, and my input here is to go a little heavier on the head with a bit shorter haft. I just measured my favorite felling axe and it is has 32" haft. The shorter handles for me decreases fatigue, as I (and presumably you) don't ever lack the power or need the extra leverage. I do own some at 36" (though many are mauls), but I don't carry them around because the hadles just are a little too long for me and I feel out of control of them at times.

I will also echo nzedge... Refurbishing an old axe head is not only fun to do but yields an often far-superior product.
Click to expand...


Refurbishing an axe head sounds like something I would really dig. I'm not asking for secrets spots or anything, but where are they normally found? Auctions, antique stores, estate sales, an online auction site that will not be mentioned? Anything in particular to watch for.......or watch out for?
 
Maverick299 said:
Refurbishing an axe head sounds like something I would really dig. I'm not asking for secrets spots or anything, but where are they normally found? Auctions, antique stores, estate sales, an online auction site that will not be mentioned? Anything in particular to watch for.......or watch out for?
Click to expand...

Flea markets have been my best finds and values, though they can be hit or miss. Estate sales are probably the next best, if you have an older area.

Find a good, stamped head on a rotten haft and you can have a very high quality tool for a few bucks, and less than $30 with a new handle if you have all the tools.

When I say good stamps, I mean from known companies like Collins, Kelly, Craftsman, Council Tool (which has a neat little CT stamp), and Plumb among many others. Some unstamped heads are good as well, but you can be rolling the dice with those. Look for heads with little to no poll damage and ensure the toe of the bit (the top of the blade) isn't worn too far back. Obvious damage like warped eyes and large chips should be avoided. Anything with a high centerline (as opposed to flat slab or hollow cheeks) is almost guaranteed to be good, stamped or not.

Good luck!

Edit: and hey, even if it's not a great head, as long as it's not warped or damaged too badly, it may be worth it to refurb as practice anyway. it can always be used as a loaner or root/truck axe provided it's safe.
 
SC T100 said:
Look for heads with little to no poll damage and ensure the toe of the bit (the top of the blade) isn't worn too far back. Obvious damage like warped eyes and large chips should be avoided. Anything with a high centerline (as opposed to flat slab or hollow cheeks) is almost guaranteed to be good, stamped or not.
Click to expand...

All good advise in this post.
Yard sales are cheapest but you won't find any of those this time of year. Estate sales are next best. Ebay or antique stores both can be good but you won't find any bargains there anymore.

Besides stamp, high centerline, warped eye and mushroomed poll it's important also to look at the shape of the bit. If it's too rounded or if the toe (top point) is short then you have a damaged axe. If there's enough hardened steel bit remaining the bit can be reshaped but it takes more work than a first timer should tackle.
 
Thanks for all the solid advise. I will be keeping my eyes peeled for something in the 3.5 - 4lb range with a 32" haft or something to refurbish and rehang. Thanks again for all your help.
 
I think I might have found one. Does anyone here mind if I PM them a link to see what they think? I have no idea if this is a good head and a decent price.
 
im no pro like some of the other guys here, but if your looking for a quick opinion your more then welcome to message me :)
 
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