Axe Workshop on a November Sunday

Operator1975

Operator1975

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Sep 24, 2010
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Well I was contemplating doing another axe manufacturer thread, and had a couple in mind. Thought I would switch gears a little, and do a workshop thread(working on axes) and then throw in some info about the axe that maybe people don't know of haven't heard of yet. Thought this could be a little twist to what I have done before.

So this is going to be pic heavy(real heavy) and as stated some info. So if you choose to stay aboard you are going to be here awhile. Might want to grab a beverage and a snack, sit back, and see what happens.

Any and all comments are appreciated for learning and becoming better axe restores while gaining knowledge as well. Hope this works.

So, I had a bunch of axe heads that I needed to work on as I stated in another thread I started. Of course I am behind with work, life, weather, etc. So it was time to get some work done. This is work on heads only, and basic cleaning/refurb. No handles or sharpening, etc. That will be for next time. :)

So, here is the lot I chose to do some damage on today :



Its a mix mash of different heads, companies, styles, etc. They need work and the time has come.

So I started off with this guy - Gambles Artisan





Pretty basic work over - I used an angle grinder with wire cup wheel and then hit it with oil afterward to remove grime/dust/dirt from the process itself.



Interesting I thought - ridges in the eye - what could that mean?



So there is the first insight of the day. From what I have read and seen, more than likely this head was made by Kelly - well known for ridges in the eye - such as Flint Edge and other lines. Is it for sure a Kelly product?? Nope. But more than likely.

So then moved on to this one - A James H Mann (I have been chompin to get after this one, no idea about the anchor)





So first off I am looking at the eye saying what in the name of axes happened? Check this guy out -



So I tried the basics - tried to knock it side to side with hammer and screw driver - didnt budge. Tried to hammer it totally out from below to the top of the eye hoping I could just pop it out, didn't budge.(sometimes works, sometimes it don't)

So I got the drill and started to do some work/exploring -



Drilled those holes in hopes of loosening the wedge - nope.

Then I went to the bottom of the eye and made a series of drill holes in hopes of making the whole thing weak and punchable -



So the series of holes in the bottom didn't really do anything either. So now I have to go drastic.

With my drilling I had hit the wedge from below. So I decided to pound it out from below seeing it didn't want to budge right side up at all -



With some hammer blows this is what comes out the other side -



Now, for perspective, this wedge is a BEAST. It is one of the biggest metal wedges I have ever seen in an axe head. Here are some comparison pics -





Here are some other wedges I have pulled out as of late and how it compares -



So once I got it out, I easily popped the handle out and got to work.



Upon further examination, the condition of the eye didn't help with trying to get the handle out -



So, the James H Mann head was done. Looking at it, it says 27 on it, which I am not 100% sure how to take that exactly.

Lesson time - James Mann was tied up with AmericanAx company in the later 1800s when it formed, but then left in early 1900s. If the 27 means 1927, this means James H Mann was still making axes up until that time frame, which I was unaware of for sure - and the anchor - I am not sure yet either. So it is a possible curve ball in the history of axes - but I will find out.

So on to the next - Collins Bonded -





It cleaned up fairly easily and quickly -



Fun Fact - The Collins Bonded line was created to compete with the Plumb Permabond line. It was to be the Cadillac of the industry. If that is/was true is up for debate. Here is an old advertisement - hope you can read it.



And so then on to this - Collins Legitimus Cruiser





Again this one cleaned up fairly easy and went smooth overall -





Collins Legitimus is/was one of the most recognized and protected trademarks in the axe industry - Collins was very well known for bringing legal claims against any competitor who tried to use that name in anyway without permission.

And then on to this C Hammond hatchet - what a beast -





This one cleaned up a little longer, had some more work to do, but it came out pretty well overall -





C Hammond is what got me into axes and hatchets really hard core. The previous owner of the house I bought in 2002 had a few Hammond hatchets, and once I decided to clean them up, and then research them, it was over. No one knows exactly when Hammond went out of business, but they made mostly hatchets overall, and some swords for the Civil War even. There is some debate as to which side Hammond made the swords for, but being based right outside Philadelphia it would be hard to imagine them making them for the South.

Ok so now on to this beauty waiting to be released -



Of course you see that handle still in there, and I was dreading it - as most of these big jerseys don't give up their handles that well overall - here is a look at what I was dealing with -



So a couple of nails in there - doesn't look that bad overall - so I drilled my holes to find out whats going on as usual -



Standard overall - popped the nails out and found a small wedge hidden in the middle - was able to pop it out and then pound the handle out from underneath -



I am very happy with how it cleaned up -



Side Note - Vulcan is actually an old line name that has been around forever - this marking though is pretty common in the early/mid 1900s. Keep an eye out for the Vulcan with the blacksmith on the axe head - pretty rare.

Ok so then on to this guy (look similar?)



It cleaned up well - not quite in as good of condition as the Vulcan but a keeper none the less -



The Red Warrior line was originally part of the Mann family. With the creation of the AmericanAx and Tool Co in the late 1800s - this line was absorbed by them. Then in 1921 when Kelly bought out AmericanAx it had rights to the name. Whew!

Ok Kelly Flint Edge with weird patina to it already -



And behold! Ridges in the eye!



It cleaned up ok, but still weird markings on it I could not get rid of with the angle grinder.....





Kelly Flint Edge is an extremely old line from way back - you can find almost any kind of axe/hatchet with the Flint Edge name on it from Kelly.

I ran out of room. Have to start new. Lol
 
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Part 2 -

So now we finish up with this guy - which I didn't feel good about at all for some reason -



Its an old Red Warrior double bit. Looked to be average at best, and then when I was looking in the eye with the handle - I wasn't excited -



So I tried a couple things as usual - just pound it out from below - nope. Tried to move some of the wedges with screwdriver and hammer. Nope. Had to figure out what to do now.

So I really pounded on it from below in order to move it up and out the eye - was able to have some success -



Then had to dig in and see what we had -



So thats not good - but is workable anyway. So I got to prying and digging - and guess what was in there?



That guy, which once you remove the wood is actually a -



A big old staple. And there were many more in the haft. Well atleast I knew what I was up against - So one by one I removed them. Then did a trough move with drilling holes and then expanding to take out the wooden wedge - did it on top and bottom seeing the haft was still pretty stuck -





Once I had the trough I could pop the haft out easily.

Here is how it cleaned up, which I am more than happy about overall -



And then saw it wasn't a common weight either -



As stated above, Red Warrior is an old line so if you see one and it isn't tied to Kelly grab it up - its old!

Here are some party pics of the group -





All told a good day. Hope this was ok overall. Tried to mix it up like I said with some restore then some info as well.

Thanks for taking the time and checking it out. All comments welcome please.

Thanks!!

Mike
 
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Mike -

I always enjoys your posts, especially your pics with the pithy comments. I was wondering the same as intel if the 27 was actually a 3 1/2. Looking forward to watching you haft these guys now. I've done a total of 4 so far and am working on a Collins Legitimus splitter on a 36" handle. Got a few more after that. The more detail you can share in the handling process the better for us newbs. Thanks, appreciate it!!
 
On the imprint/logo it clearly says 27, while under the eye it says 3 1/2. I am not sure the significance of the 27 but ill dog in and find out. I also am not sure about the anchor - but it's the first anchor I have seen on an axe other than old plumbs. So we will see. Thanks!!!!
 
EXCELLENT. I am looking forward to see how you work over mushrooming on eye, poll and underside. I have been removing and round mine out a little but I would like to see how other go about it.

I would also love to see something on how you correct bowed eyes.

Thanks,
Bill
 
lmalterna said:
EXCELLENT. I am looking forward to see how you work over mushrooming on eye, poll and underside. I have been removing and round mine out a little but I would like to see how other go about it.

I would also love to see something on how you correct bowed eyes.

Thanks,
Bill
Click to expand...

Your points you are looking for are much easier said than done overall. Mushrooming, warped eyes, etc take a lot of work, patience, and time. I will get a thread on those aspects going sometime here soon.

Thanks!!!
 
Operator, I only have a brass cup for my restorations, but have only used the vinegar method for restorations so far... Will a brass wire cup work to keep the patina but clean the rust like you accomplish in your restorations?
Thanks,
Ian
 
Yes, a brass wire cup will preserve the patina better than any other method I'm aware of.
 
I am so happy seeing this thread. I've had some restorations that I've worked on where the old handle has been extremely difficult to remove. Nice to see it can happen and isn't just because I'm doing a shitty job at it.

Also, I noticed that all of those axes really don't have any pitting. Does that rule it out for restoring for you, and if not, can you use the same method to effectively remove all the rust?
 
Thank you so much for the recent posts, pics, info, and reading.
I'm still very sapling green when it comes to axes but I love them like I do knives and hawks.

I've been reading your posts and those of many other knowledgable members here at the forum for a few years and have been trying to soak up as much info as possible to help me when I make that first flea market or barn sale purchase- and so that I'll have a good understanding of how to bring it back to a not only useable but beautiful condition.

I had a full shoulder replacement this las week and while immobilized have really appreciated the extra effort that you go through to make these posts. They not only teach but help pass the time very well.

Please keep up the great work.
 
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