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Axis Lock Abuse?
- Thread starter bloodnut
- Start date
You'll find alot of opinions here on "flicking". My personal opinion is that if it is done alot, it will start to eventually cause some "slop" to develop in the pivot/stop pin area.
The Axis mechanism will self-compensate for much of this, which is one of the advantages of the Axis lock.
I would tend to be careful with aggressive "flicking".
Even Chris Reeve, who builds argueably some of the toughest folders in the world, cautions against flicking.
My opinion. Others will probably chime in with varying points of view.
The Axis mechanism will self-compensate for much of this, which is one of the advantages of the Axis lock.
I would tend to be careful with aggressive "flicking".
Even Chris Reeve, who builds argueably some of the toughest folders in the world, cautions against flicking.
My opinion. Others will probably chime in with varying points of view.
Bill Siegle
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2000
- Messages
- 6,790
I've been doing the fast open trick since I got my 1st production run 710 and I've seen no damage yet. Same goes for my 730. I'm not saying it won't hurt them but so far so good
I've got a 550 Griptillian that I beat the crud out of. I flick it as hard as I can every chance I get. It's my beater knife for work.
I figure if I'm gonna beat a knife to test it's lock design, let it be the $50 one instead of my $100+ axis models.
So far, the knife has not been apart, so I have not really been able to look at the wear under an eye loupe. I've been snapping it as hard as I can several times a day since I got it in late May, and the lock is only about 5/8 to 3/4 of the way to the max adjustment. I still haven't brought myself to spine whack it. That would put a little more stress on the axis bar itself, and possibly bring the bar over farther in the locked position. I figure that there's a better chance I'll break one of my knives from flicking it open than from an actual use of the knife. Most of the stuff I cut at work is paper, plastic, shrink wrap, rags, and rubber.
I rarely flick my 730cfhs, 735, 721, or 942. But for some reason I love to snap that 550.
John B.
I figure if I'm gonna beat a knife to test it's lock design, let it be the $50 one instead of my $100+ axis models.
So far, the knife has not been apart, so I have not really been able to look at the wear under an eye loupe. I've been snapping it as hard as I can several times a day since I got it in late May, and the lock is only about 5/8 to 3/4 of the way to the max adjustment. I still haven't brought myself to spine whack it. That would put a little more stress on the axis bar itself, and possibly bring the bar over farther in the locked position. I figure that there's a better chance I'll break one of my knives from flicking it open than from an actual use of the knife. Most of the stuff I cut at work is paper, plastic, shrink wrap, rags, and rubber.
I rarely flick my 730cfhs, 735, 721, or 942. But for some reason I love to snap that 550.
John B.
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2001
- Messages
- 173
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I have found that by disengaging the lock I am able to flick the blade of my 705 open with minimal force. The biggest problem mentioned in discussions on Flicking is the impact on the Stop Pin. Disengaging the lock minimizes this impact by reducing the force required to flick.