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(baby) steps?

M

Matthew-06

Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Messages
9
I will be starting my first knife this week as soon as my steel arrives. I ordered 1095 CRA stock. I have been reading around here and on other sites, this is what I have put together for the steps:
1) Cut the stock to shape (I'm going to borrow a plasma cutter)
1.5) Pick out a good CD.
2) Grind and file the bevel, drill pin holes in handle.
3) Use sand paper from low to high grit (as outlined in the sticky on this thread)
4) Sharpen the blade
5) Heat past critical temp. then quench.
6) Heat in small oven to approx 500 degrees for two hours then let cool
slowly, repeat once more. (I read somewhere that 325 degrees was the temp to use to get the optimal durability and toughness from 1095, does that ring true to anyone?)
7)Attach scales
8)Re-Sharpen
9)Post finished pictures on bladeforums

I appologize if this is redundent, but I would like it if anyone can verify that I have my steps in order or has anything to add that I have overlooked?
Also, after the quenching do I need to sand the residue/color stain left behind by the oil before heat treating in the oven or after?
 
Sharpening the blade comes absolutely last, trust me, you don't want to be dodging a sharp blade while you're attaching scales or heat treating.
 
Good for the most part. Just sharpening should be the last thing on your list. You definitely dont want to do it before HT since the sharp edge will act as a stress riser and potentially cause your blade to go down south...which is no good! Also, step number 9 is MOLTO IMPORTANTE!!! DO NOT FORGET TO SHARE!!! :D
 
Ok so step four is out!! Thanks for the info Destraal and BChou-E29! I will be sure to post when I am done, although I am sure there will be MANY more post before step nine. It seems the more that I read on here the more I realize how little I know, some of these threads are scrambling my mind as I try to comprehend whats being said.
 
I was informed that a plasma cutter would HT about 1/8" out from the cut. Filing may be hard if this is true. Consider cutting off an unused corner of the stock with the plasma and see if you can file it. It would suck if you cut it all out and then couldn't file it. Please post your results of the attempt as most people that used the plasma cutter also used a grinder. I can't find any posts of attempts to file a plasma cut blank.
 
zaph1 said:
I was informed that a plasma cutter would HT about 1/8" out from the cut. Filing may be hard if this is true. Consider cutting off an unused corner of the stock with the plasma and see if you can file it. It would suck if you cut it all out and then couldn't file it. Please post your results of the attempt as most people that used the plasma cutter also used a grinder. I can't find any posts of attempts to file a plasma cut blank.
Click to expand...

Perhaps that is with air hardening steels? 1095 isn't air hardening so theoretically it shouldn't. But then again I have never used a plasma cutter in my life.
 
with a plasma torch you'll get heat affected zone (HAZ),which might be too hard to file.you'll have to grind it off or you won't get good results from heat treat. i would suggest you use a hacksaw for your profile and you will have less finish profiling with the files. good luck and keep the pointy parts away from you;)
 
So would it be better to cut my stock to shape plasma cutter then grind down on bench grinder or just use a cutting wheel to cut it to shape?
Zaph1- I will still use the plasma cutter and to the test and post it, I have never filed a blank before so Im not positive I will be able to say with any certianty How informative I will be, regaurdless I will give as much info as possible.
Bladsmth- what is my profile missing?
 
It is there now, but I would swear that all I saw last night was the date and post count??????? Sorry.

The sharpening step is the last thing done. Pre-HT, the bevels should come down to about a .030" edge before the HT. No need to sand finer than 400 grit before HT. After HT and tempering, you re-sand the knife and slowly bring the bevels down to about a .010-.005" edge ( depending on knife type). Once the blade is sanded and as smooth and polished as desired, assemble the handles and finish them. Then sharpen the edge.

One thing to consider, especially on a first knife, is the choice of steel. 1095 is not the best steel for a first knife and an inexperiences maker. Due to its shallow hardening it will leave very hard ( and possible brittle) places from the plasma cutting, and is more difficult to harden with simple equipment. The thread in the Sticky's about :Working with 3 Steels" has a lot of info on the technical reasoning of this. I suggest 1084 or 5160 for a first knife.
 
Bladsmth- no worries I was just confused, and as far as the steel goes I think I am going to try to make a go of it with the 1095 just because I ordered it already and my cash funds are running lower everyday (My work slows down alot after summer) I will check out that sticky and hopefully get my hands on some 1084 or 5160 in the near future.
 
So I used the plasma cutter today... Its awsome! but unfortunealty I dont think it will be worth useing to cut my blade shapes, the heat hardens about an eighth of an inch all the way around, the file is almost useless on this section and it seems like a wast of time an material to take off the extra amount with a grinder when I can just as easily cut it to shape with the grinder.
 
Matthew-06 said:
So I used the plasma cutter today... Its awsome! but unfortunealty I dont think it will be worth useing to cut my blade shapes, the heat hardens about an eighth of an inch all the way around, the file is almost useless on this section and it seems like a wast of time an material to take off the extra amount with a grinder when I can just as easily cut it to shape with the grinder.
Click to expand...

I'm quite green with envy about your access to a plasma cutter.

I've been trying to get the DIY NWG done by some local steel companies, but no one will do up the quote from the schematics.
 
You left out a step that goes after your number 4. "Drop blade on cement floor making sure that it hits either the point or edge first and then goes skidding across the full length of the floor."

You also left out the step of "Cut yourself". But this one can go in several different spots. I think it's some sort of rule that it's not a hand-made knife if you don't leave a little of your DNA on it.

LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
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